Scratch built trailers. (1 Viewer)

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Anybody here used a m716, or m762 flat bed trailer and adapted it for a camping trailer?

SS
 
So what capicity axle would be best for this type trailer. The torsion type I found aren't availble below 3500 with 6 on 5.5 lugs. That seems like more than enough, given that the dry weight on my 22' Travel Trailer is around 4800.
 
That's the capacity of my current axle, which uses 3,500 lb. capacity hubs (commonly available everywhere).
 
The new trailer from Adventure Trailers is going to have a base price of around $2,500.00.
 
Unless you have a press-brake, and a lot of fabrication experience/tools, building from scratch is a big project. Starting with a pick-up bed would be much easier, granted some look a bit hokey, but they're functional. An old Willys pick-up bed is a good size for a trailer and easy to find, better yet, Ford Courier's had hooked bed's that resemble an FJ45 and those hooks are very handy for tieing down loads.

Henderson Wheel here in Boise will build you a 3500 pound axle the width you want with cruiser-lug patterns for around $125.00

I had a sprung over FJ45 pick-up bed trailer, with an FJ60 axle under it. It was a the right size (volume and legnth) for my needs, but was way too high.

My ideal trailer is an M101A 3/4 ton trailer with bows. They're heavy but, bomb-proof.

Good luck.
 
rusty_tlc said:
Got links?


Dan,

They sent me a price list...PM me your e-mail address and I will send it to you.

Dan
 
Remember the old adage -

"There's nothing in the world heavier than a homebuilt stock trailer"

I think that applies very well to this type trailer too. An already underpowered and overloaded 40 series pulling an overloaded and overbuilt trailer almost guarantees that you will end up needing lots of spare parts, tools and fuel.

My idea is to build a very simple box frame and long tongue, use expanded metal for floor decking, spend real money on good ProTech or Weatherquard truck tool boxes along the sides and over the tongue for your valuables/vulnerables and go from there. Torsion axles are bulletproof and relatively cheap - good tires w/ same bolt pattern would be a neccessity.

Cost: ~$750 in toolboxes, $200 steel, $175 for axles, $??tires/wheels

Main necessities for Nevada are fuel and water - those don't need to be covered just cabled together and locked to the trailer

Won't be as "nice" as storebought but ought to work just as well - spend the rest of the money you saved on parts and vehicle upgrades and you won't need to carry as much stuff. go lightweight with your camp supplies rather than bringing the entire kitchen sink and I think you'd have plenty of room.

Or go to Caravan Tops in Reno and have them start building one - that would probably be alright too.
 
haystax said:
Remember the old adage -

"There's nothing in the world heavier than a homebuilt stock trailer"

I think that applies very well to this type trailer too. An already underpowered and overloaded 40 series pulling an overloaded and overbuilt trailer almost guarantees that you will end up needing lots of spare parts, tools and fuel.

My idea is to build a very simple box frame and long tongue, use expanded metal for floor decking, spend real money on good ProTech or Weatherquard truck tool boxes along the sides and over the tongue for your valuables/vulnerables and go from there. Torsion axles are bulletproof and relatively cheap - good tires w/ same bolt pattern would be a neccessity.

Cost: ~$750 in toolboxes, $200 steel, $175 for axles, $??tires/wheels

Main necessities for Nevada are fuel and water - those don't need to be covered just cabled together and locked to the trailer

Won't be as "nice" as storebought but ought to work just as well - spend the rest of the money you saved on parts and vehicle upgrades and you won't need to carry as much stuff. go lightweight with your camp supplies rather than bringing the entire kitchen sink and I think you'd have plenty of room.

Or go to Caravan Tops in Reno and have them start building one - that would probably be alright too.

I was already questioning using a #3500 axle, seemed like overkill for all the reasons you mentioned. But I want the 6 on 5.5 pattern. I already have a Confer aux tank so I'm good for fuel.

We saw the exact trailer you describe on the Rubicon last year. I would use a GI xray box or two from Twin city instead of the tool boxes. They are aluminium so weigh about the same as plastic, but they are %100 dust proof. They cost around $30 ea. Here

I'll be down on Dickerson Road Friday maybe I'll stop by Caravan and see what they say. My Caravan shell looks better than my truck after 13 years, they build good stuff.
 
I don't think the 3500# is overkill, the last thing you want is a crappy axle and how many cheapo trailers do you see parked beside the road cause the s***ty axle or spindle gave out...

I seem to remember seeing a couple nice Cruisers sitting in the Caravan work lot - they might be fellow Cruiserheads and willing to help out - I'm guessing it wouldn't be cheap but would probably last a couple lifetimes.
 
The owner of Adventure Trailers sent me this photo of their new "Chaser" trailer. The model shown has lid with gas ram, air suspension, wheels, tires, tongue box and gas can carrier. He says that the trailer, as shown, is $4400 in a kit form, buildable in a weekend with regular hand tools.

379886.JPG


The suspension is a trailing arm with (I think) air shocks. It has awesome clearance.

I have no affiliation with Adventure Trailers, except that they are a customer.

Mike S

PS: please excuse the tow vehicle shot, but that's what he sent.
 
Any idea on the weight og the "Chaser"?

Have any of you weighed your trailers? I would love to know what you guys are wieghing in at loaded/empty, etc... I need to wiegh mine but I am guessing ~350 empty.
 
Let just say I still want to build my own.
I have selected a torsion axle with electric brakes at a cost of $375. I will also want an e-brake on the trailer, this I know from experience. :rolleyes: The electrics would probably be used only "on road", to reduce wear on the tow vehicle's brakes.

What size material for the frame/tounge? I like haystax idea of a light frame with a simple storage box, but I know I would also like to have a water tank, maybe a DSI water heater, gas stove top, probably an awaning, sink and porta potty*. One of the things I like about a trailer is the ability to keep it loaded and ready to go. So I would want storage for kitchen stuff, clothes, tent sleeping bags, etc.



*Because some people don't have the manners of cats porta potties are not optional in many places nowadays.:mad:
 
Not slamming the "Chaser", but for $4400 (plus shipping) I could build A LOT more than that! Even doing it for profit as opposed to building my own.


Wow.


Mark...
 
Mark W said:
Not slamming the "Chaser", but for $4400 (plus shipping) I could build A LOT more than that! Even doing it for profit as opposed to building my own.


Wow.


Mark...

Mark,

But it really looks nice. If you build something similar please post up pictures.

Grouseman
 
Mark W said:
Not slamming the "Chaser", but for $4400 (plus shipping) I could build A LOT more than that! Even doing it for profit as opposed to building my own.


Wow.


Mark...



That's for the trailer as pictured with the active suspension, front tongue box, lid, etc. & HD construction. The base box starts at around $2,500.00. JSYK I am not affiliated with AT...but having seen their trailers in various stages of production at their manufacturing plant in LA area they are not simply a military surplus trailer copy/repro.

Like so many things it really comes down to how and where you will use it...
 

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