Why couldn't someone just 3link a GM Dana 60 in the front of a pre atrac model? Its been done a million times on late model domestic vehicles. Iirc, they have a 71" wms to wms. What's the front track width of a 100? The rear is a easy swap.
Sas? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter RockJock82
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The key to doing this affordably would be producing bolt on parts to form a kit, like on this Xterra. Especially finding an existing front axle that is the correct width.
I remember seeing that the old F250 4x4s had the same track width as the 100 series. But obviously that would complicate trying to maintain 5x150 lug spacing, ABS and ATRAC, etc.
Avoiding the electric blue would be nice.
Slee's build were especially expensive because he:
1. Had a custom high-9 axle and housing made.
2. Used OEM Toyota parts to maintain servicability.
If you were able to fab more parts, it would save some money. The control arms seem easy to make out of DOM tubing and threaded ends.
Coilovers might simplify the shock set up.
Someone else already mentioned the 105 steering box.
I assume you'd ARB lock and regear the front diff to 4.88 or 5.29. That'll add $1,000, $3,000 to the build cost if you do it yourself.
http://www.xterraownersclub.com/reviews/calmini_sas01.html
I remember seeing that the old F250 4x4s had the same track width as the 100 series. But obviously that would complicate trying to maintain 5x150 lug spacing, ABS and ATRAC, etc.
Avoiding the electric blue would be nice.
Slee's build were especially expensive because he:
1. Had a custom high-9 axle and housing made.
2. Used OEM Toyota parts to maintain servicability.
If you were able to fab more parts, it would save some money. The control arms seem easy to make out of DOM tubing and threaded ends.
Coilovers might simplify the shock set up.
Someone else already mentioned the 105 steering box.
I assume you'd ARB lock and regear the front diff to 4.88 or 5.29. That'll add $1,000, $3,000 to the build cost if you do it yourself.
http://www.xterraownersclub.com/reviews/calmini_sas01.html
RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
- Thread starter
- #63
I wouldn't actually want to use coilovers, they are bad ass but rattle around too much from my experience. Coils are simple and I can make some nice arms out of dom tubing. That xterra kit is killer!
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In Slees cost defense IIRC part of the reason for staying with mostly factory parts was to get the best ride comfort he could. When you start using links, poly, heims, and rod ends your wife ride approval ride rating drops quickly. Taking a excellent riding handling post 2003+ LC and having ride and handle like a linked 80 is not what most want to see in the outcome of a SAS.
Custom axles, seem to kill the $5k budget.
http://www.trail-gear.com/fully-built-rock-assault-axle-housings
http://www.trail-gear.com/fully-built-rock-assault-axle-housings
RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
- Thread starter
- #66
I don't mind the ride of my 80. Of course the ifs plush ride is much superior in everyday driving. My goal is to use as much Toyota parts as needed if I use a Toyota based front diff.
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RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
- Thread starter
- #67
I was thinking one of these diffs. http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com...stuff&Product_Code=TOY8&Category_Code=Toy8Cat. Having them size the center to accept 4:88 at least and make it the correct width for the 100.
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Bomar
SILVER Star
Nice....i am behind you. It is more cost effective to SAS a 100 than engine swaps in 80/60 platform.
The serviceability of a SFA is what I like. Other than time they are easy to deal with and easy to do own alignment. Also you get rid of that problemmatic steering rack.
You loose some comfort but a SAS 100 went up to the Alaska Cruiser Trek and didn't have an issues in that setting.
I would be in line for the next when you get it figured out..
Correct width is 69" WMS-WMS, right?
So, custom housing with custom axles, none of which will remain Toyota?
That said, and in light of the budget, consider this:
Front D60 and rear D70 from a mid nineties Dodge.
Passenger drop, 70" WMS-WMS, bolt pattern remains the same for both axles, all kinds of gearing and locker options, very economical, housings can be reinforced, won't break anything, but if you do, it can be serviced with parts that can be sourced from a convenience store.
Did I mention very economical?
Can buy both for the expense of a custom housing and have money to spare to rebuild.
4.88s for 37s? Wouldn't 5.29s be the better choice? And if so, doesn't that pose a problem for the rear diff? Never found a clear answer to this, but it's my understanding that 5.29s either won't fit, or to do so, requires a modified pumpkin.
What did Slee do to the rear end on blueberry? (/searching)
What did Slee do to the rear end on blueberry? (/searching)
RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
- Thread starter
- #71
Mid 90's dodge 60 is driver drop and a pos front diff. Last year of the pass side good 60 was 1993. Only portion of the front custom diff would housing and shafts, brakes, center section, knuckles would be stock.
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RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
- Thread starter
- #73
If you are going to go the custom housing route you may as well use a 9.5" diff. Build the width to place the third where you want it in relation to the PS frame rail. Nitro Gear's 73 build did this with custom 32 spline inners to use a 98+ 9.5" third member (100 rears are 32 spline). The 100's also have bigger pinions shafts than the earlier 9.5's.
May as well go all the way and have a custom width rear built as well using a ruff stuff housing and FZJ80 FF ends, 32 spline axles of course.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-c...bj73-build-coilovers-toyota-axle-goodies.html
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Here's a cheap starter...
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=354742910&LNX
even in your neck of the woods...
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=354742910&LNX
even in your neck of the woods...
My understanding is the 5.29 gears have a smaller pinion gear (and one less tooth IRC), thus making is more prone to failure than that of the larger pinion gear in the 4.88 gear set.
Ummm....what? What was rattling around in your experience? I'm running 8" Fox 2.5" coilovers on the front of my '94 Toyota Pickup and there's isn't a rattle to be heard. Bypass shocks on the other hand will emit a clackity-clack-clack sound from the bypass tubes all day long.
RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
- Thread starter
- #78
12" 2.5 coilovers on a sas 2002 Dakota on 1 tons.. The ends wear out and rattle, sliders rattle. Awesome for crawling and desert racing but not daily driver worthy in my eyes.... From my experience. Glad they are not noisy for you though
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RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
- Thread starter
- #79
4:88 and 37's are perfect I have already ran this combo before but that was with a motor that had a few 100 more ponies than the 4.7L....hmmm maybe a diesel or 6.2L L92 while I'm at it? Lol
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Anyone have a link to the 3rd SAS 100 that slee did?
