sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Yup, pulling the 2UZ and installing a 2F while we are at it. 
SAS on a 100
- Thread starter Micah
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
No need to add that whomever does the full SAS thing, if they were to do this with an eye towards repeat job rather than one-of-a-kind (i.e. doing with readily available or identified parts, everything worked out and documented etc), well, they might well get quite a bit of interest in further business...
Same with engine swap, esp Diesel, I would guess....
Same with engine swap, esp Diesel, I would guess....
No need to add that whomever does the full SAS thing, if they were to do this with an eye towards repeat job rather than one-of-a-kind (i.e. doing with readily available or identified parts, everything worked out and documented etc), well, they might well get quite a bit of interest in further business...
Same with engine swap, esp Diesel, I would guess....
Ditto for longer A-arms, CV axles, etc.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
I have to admit this is going to be an experiment. I have a truck with all the IFS parts mangled, so the natural thing is to cut it off. Once we have got it down to bare frame, we will start measuring and see what will work in terms of linkages. stock mounts vs custom etc et.
The plan is to get a Diamond Axle (www.diamondaxles.com) with a 80 series rear differential and 80 series balls on the end. We will run 80 series knuckles with our new hi-steer arms with the steering in front of the axle. HD inner axles with HD birfields. Probably going with 37" tires on it.
Still have to sort out the 5 lug vs 6 lug hub issues.
The ideal is to run coils & shocks, but we are not sure if the space available is going to allow that. If not, it will haved to go coil-over.
It is either going to be a 3 link with panhard bar, or a duplicate 80 series with our control arms. However we will only go the 80 arms route if it is a slam dunk and all the parts line up and we can use factory frame mounts etc etc. If we have to start compromising, we will just do a link setup.
First step is to get all the crap cut off and the frame cleaned up. That will start in Jan.
The plan is to get a Diamond Axle (www.diamondaxles.com) with a 80 series rear differential and 80 series balls on the end. We will run 80 series knuckles with our new hi-steer arms with the steering in front of the axle. HD inner axles with HD birfields. Probably going with 37" tires on it.
Still have to sort out the 5 lug vs 6 lug hub issues.
The ideal is to run coils & shocks, but we are not sure if the space available is going to allow that. If not, it will haved to go coil-over.
It is either going to be a 3 link with panhard bar, or a duplicate 80 series with our control arms. However we will only go the 80 arms route if it is a slam dunk and all the parts line up and we can use factory frame mounts etc etc. If we have to start compromising, we will just do a link setup.
First step is to get all the crap cut off and the frame cleaned up. That will start in Jan.
should be plenty of room for the top arms to go back beside the bell housing on each side, and if you want super tough diffs, use frontier nissan rear, and Ill send you a revers cut patrol front [same rears in both cars] and the 80 cv's etc grafted onto the centre.
105 hubs should fit a late 80 housing.
I will send you some pics of some towers we just did for coil over front on another vehicle, but design works well.
105 hubs should fit a late 80 housing.
I will send you some pics of some towers we just did for coil over front on another vehicle, but design works well.
blank rotors should perform better for offroad use. slotted rotors only work somewhat when there is enough airflow. most of the time the extra cooling they provide does not overcompensate for the lack of surface area on the rotor itself and there definatly wont be enough airflow while crawling. a high-quality blank and a good set of pads should work (there are track guys who'll take a blank rotor over a slotted rotor)
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Yup, pulling the 2UZ and installing a 2F while we are at it.
Nice-My kind of truck-with a real motor, none of this fancy DOHC stuff. Rock on.
Christo, any teaser pics or other info on these hi-steer arms?
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Tigerstripe40
SILVER Star
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$"S, and we have all the Toyota parts.
Tigerstripe40
SILVER Star
Perhaps you should research a little better before answering in such a way as to demonstrate your non understanding of the products task.
the slots dont "cool" anything, they allow gas to escape from the pads, which prevent the pads from contacting the rotor effectively, causing brake fade.
As much as they dont do anything while crawling, we all have to drive there and back, and drive it on longer trips, loaded up, and with bigger tyres, which all stretch the braking capacity.
true, but most quality pads now-a-days create very little gas, and may even be vented themselves.
they will, also, help clean off the pads, which could be considered by someone who goes mudding a lot
i personally would still go with a quality blank rotor and a good set of pads
you can hose rotor slots easier than pads slots....
I have had the ART slotted (radiused bottom slot and not through cut to inner/outer edge of rotor) since June and they are GREAT. Have driven alot of gravel, rock, dirt, thick deep dust, etc. and absolutely no problem with any type of debris getting stuck in the slot(s). Can't vouch for above axle deep mud...
And they are substantially better (with carbon and kevlar pads) on-road as well.
I have a swapped 4Runner, and the mechanics can be worked out whether you want leafs or coil-overs. One thing that the newer vehicles will have problems with after a swap is the electronics, which I don't think have been mentioned here yet.
Swapping a 100 (my guess) - plan on losing ABS and any other axle-mounted electronics. You may also lose your odo- and speedometer. I think you can get a gear and re-route those to the tranny, though.
Doing this properly will be extremely expensive. Good luck.
Swapping a 100 (my guess) - plan on losing ABS and any other axle-mounted electronics. You may also lose your odo- and speedometer. I think you can get a gear and re-route those to the tranny, though.
Doing this properly will be extremely expensive. Good luck.
I think that problem may have been solved. There's a Toyota training facility in Farmington, NM and one of the instructors there developed a harness for my Tundra that made all the electonics work after the SAS. I ordered my truck w/o the ABS but I think most IFS rigs that went SAS had ABS and his harness worked fine as far as I know and the ABS still functioned correctly. The harness is fairly inexpensive, like $150.00 if my memory serves me correctly. I have the instructor's name and telephone number that I'll furnish anyone who needs it but I'm not comfortable with posting it on the internet.
There's a writeup on that 100 here:
http://www.yu-ando.com/navic/gallery/100/100-01.html
http://www.yu-ando.com/navic/gallery/100/100-02.html
