Sanity Check - Maintenance Repair Costs - Inputs please....

[tlin]

I don't wheel hard but "stuff happens". Had my GX flat-bedded to local Toyota for diagnoses, findings and repair costs below.

1. Would you DIY these?
2. If you have experience paying a pro (dealer preferred) to do these items, do the costs seem reasonable?

Thx!

From the dealer:

It's the alternator - Alternator with new belt - $800

Leaking from transfer case input shaft seal - $1100

 

[MNGX]

Probably depends on your experience. I'd say I'm an advanced amateur, and I'd try both of those, though I've never personally done either. But I like to learn how to do stuff, and I always prefer to pay for better parts from the savings on labor as a bonus. If that all sounds like you, go for it.

Someone else can speak to this better, but the shaft seal sounds like a lot of labor time, so that price doesn't seem unreasonable at $85/hour or whatever.

 

[ebbs15]

I'd definitely do the Alternator myself. T-Case input shaft, I'd probably pay someone to do it, mainly because I don't really have a space to do it, as I'm sure it's going to be more time intensive.

alternator I can get out and new one in under an hour.

 

[ebbs15]

Get yourself a Haynes or Chiltons manual... (edit, I can't find one for the GX470 but they have one for the 4 Runner, and the 8V's are the same motor)
(edit link isn't working... just go to amazon and type in Chiltons or Haynes Manual 09 4Runner)


Here's an online version

Cengage Learning - Learning solutions, training and educational publishing - Overview

Cengage Learning delivers highly-customized learning solutions for universities, instructors, students, libraries, government agencies, corporations, and professionals worldwide.

repair.chiltondiy.com

 

[vwynn]

Alternator for sure would DIY... and replace the serpentine belt with a new one too and maybe the other pulleys if they are old.

T case maybe.... ide have to find out how much work it is as itll be my first time

 

[little_joe]

Guess it all depends on whether you have the tools, patience, time, and willingness to tackle these? I can say from experience the alternator is exactly 0 fun to replace, but isn't technically "hard" and would likely require 2-4 hrs for a novice/1st-timer. Considering an OEM reman alt is $175-$250, their cost is a bit high.

On the input shaft to transfer case, that seems crazy high? While the seal is likely <$35, a grand in labor? To be honest, not done this repair, but on most all other seals I've done, there's no real complexity, just have to be careful. Did they say which specific seal?

Did you ask if the prices will go down after the guy makes his monthly boat payment?

 

[z00t3ch]

Did they say which specific seal?

He said input shaft seal so it's the one in the Front Bearing Retainer Sub-Assembly in your pic. Drop the drive shafts, unplug a couple connectors, unbolt the transfer case from the trans, should be able to pull the seal from the front without any further disassembly.

 

[MNGX]

Well, that ain't $1,000. Especially with a lift.

 

[PDXGX]

Dealer is always going to be more expensive than getting your own parts and taking it to an indy shop you can trust

 

[CarolinaGX]

Alternator is definitely DIY unless you don't really wrench beyond changing light bulb fluid.

The transfer case seal I would have no problem tackling myself but if it is your DD and you are unsure, then you might take it to an indy shop that you trust. If you are comfortable removing the drive shafts and the handful of bolts holding it on, I think you will be just fine if you go slow.

Note: If you do the TC seal, remember to lube the seal before putting it in.

 

[tlin]

There are some great one-liners in here - no shortage of humor for sure.

"Did you ask if the prices will go down after the guy makes his monthly boat payment?"

"Alternator is definitely DIY unless you don't really wrench beyond changing light bulb fluid."

I did my lift myself (with a buddy), did my own radiator replacement, did my CV's, did a decent amount of work on my former 80..... so I wrench "a bit" but it's purely on a case-by-case basis and have never done the same job twice (meaning I'm no expert).

Just a darn busy week and the thought of another "my first time" project right now isn't what I'm excited about. The feedback above is all I need. Much appreciated guys!

.....and it's beer:30

 

[HomersCanyonero]

To give you an idea on prices....Two years ago I bought the remanufactured Denso 210-0512 alternator for $127 including tax and shipping on amazon and found a really good Indy mechanic to install it for $85, so $212 out door.

However, no satisfaction of being able to do this job myself. And the drive belt was only 3k miles new, so no need to change it again. The Bando 6PK2240 OEM Quality Serpentine Belt was $17.06 on amazon in late 2017.

 

[KenH]

Dealer rate approx $140-160 in my area. Alt and T-case seal very easy R/R. Go with ind shop for both if you not doing it yourself.

 

[ArBrnSnpr]

Input/output seals really are easy.

You disconnect the driveshaft. Pull the flange. Use a seal puller (about $15 at Napa). Use old seal to help drive in new seal. Make sure to go slow and tap evenly around it's circumference. Use a wide-faced brass drift to avoid damaging the seal.

Once set, reinstall your flange. Torque your nut. Reinstall driveshaft. Top and fluid that seaped past the oil slinger/baffle.

The seal is actually an easier job that the alternator.

Both would be an afternoon's worth of work if you have the tools.

 

[z00t3ch]

Input/output seals really are easy.

You disconnect the driveshaft. Pull the flange. Use a seal puller (about $15 at Napa). Use old seal to help drive in new seal. Make sure to go slow and tap evenly around it's circumference. Use a wide-faced brass drift to avoid damaging the seal.

Once set, reinstall your flange. Torque your nut. Reinstall driveshaft. Top and fluid that seaped past the oil slinger/baffle.

The seal is actually an easier job that the alternator.

Both would be an afternoon's worth of work if you have the tools.

Input seal is between transfer case and transmission, so while disconnecting the driveshaft(s) is involved, it's not all that's involved...

Still fairly easy, though...

 

[ArBrnSnpr]

^^^So you're saying a sawzall will be necessary...?

But in all seriousness, I'd have to crawl under there to confirm what I'm remembering but there's NO WAY it's a $1k labor job.

 

[z00t3ch]

there's NO WAY it's a $1k labor job.

Not surprised that quote came from a dealership. My indy mechanic did a complete engine swap in my daughter's Solara for $800. At his labor rate, and the time needed to do the job, he'd be at ~$250.00 for this repair.

 

[DSRTRDR]

my service advisor at Lexus: "nothing at Lexus is ever under $1000"

 

[tlin]

Finally DIY'd the alternator (not my DD, lots of work travel lately). Easy job, serpentine belt included.

1. A friend with a private garage and lift is......well, the best friend to have during a time like this.

2. This video was priceless - belongs in the FAQ for sure.

Yes, he has a tapped keg back in there as well - good Saturday and PROBLEM SOLVED.

 

[tlin]

Up on the lift, amazing what you can see. I don't believe I actually have a leak from the transfer case as originally diagnosed. Cleaned things off and will monitor over the next few weeks but damn glad I didn't pony up for the dealer to do that work based on their word alone. Time will tell.....