saginaw power steereing gearbox

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Does anyone sell a mounting bracket that will work with this box since it is a three bolt and not a four? Or are the three bolts on the three bolt box in the same location as three of the four bolts on a four bolt box? Did I confuse anyone with that? :confused:
Some boxes only have 3 mounting bosses, others have 4. The 3 are always in the same location though, no matter if 3 or 4 boss box. We got tired of guys getting dirty old greasy boxes from wrecking yards, only to discover they were wrong ratio or design, defective :flipoff2:, or whatever??? We now build a Downey box that is the correct design, correct mounting, correct ratio, totally remanufactured with upgraded stainless steel guts, and dual stage (high speed-low speed). Call for info, I'm not suppose to advertise here!!!
 
OrangeFJ45 (Valley Hybrids) has the plates and sells them.

Do you have the contact info? Either a website or a phone number will work.
 
I believe you have the wrong year J20 looked up as I have the J20 box noted above and it is a 4 bolt mount. I repeat that the box you are after is a 4 bolt mount. I can pull the part # please wait.......
 
Napa part # NSP276529 1976 Jeep J20 steering gear 360 V8
4 bolt mount
 
Orangefj45 just got married so he may be out a week . He runs Valley Hybrids in Stockton, CA and runs on this BB and on pirate. His plate/boxing kits are whjat you want.

No spud shaft nec. The spud shaft is just a 4" extension if you will to go thru the radiator support.

With Georgs plates the box is set far enough in that you can run a borgensen joint right in the frame channel.

Use a slip shaft on steering.
 
I would go with the Scout steering box.....different setup completely. Ive had ZERO problems with mine, I think everything fits in better plus no cutting of frame.....IMHO.
I can post pix if needed but a search should get you the info needed to have a look anyway.
 
Napa part # NSP276529 1976 Jeep J20 steering gear 360 V8
4 bolt mount
Do I want that one or NAPA part # NSP276505 1979 Jeep J20? The only diff is that the '79 uses a 3/4" input shaft rather than 13/16". If it makes a difference, I think my '72 FJ40 has a 3/4" steering shaft.

Also, you say to use a slip shaft. Is that just an adjustable steering shaft? I was thinking of using apiece of 3/4" solid steel to lengthen my steering shaft. Will this work?

Thanks for the help!
 
Do I want that one or NAPA part # NSP276505 1979 Jeep J20? The only diff is that the '79 uses a 3/4" input shaft rather than 13/16". If it makes a difference, I think my '72 FJ40 has a 3/4" steering shaft.

Also, you say to use a slip shaft. Is that just an adjustable steering shaft? I was thinking of using apiece of 3/4" solid steel to lengthen my steering shaft. Will this work?

Thanks for the help!

Dude, I,m not suppose to advertise here, but you really need some help. Go to the Downey website and check out the steering shafts with u-joints & slip yoke. Yes you need a slip yoke!!! Yes you have to match the splines of your gear boxes input shaft with the splines of your lower u-joint. Your job is to do a steering conversion that will keep your family alive, and some of the steering comments on this forum would not have you accomplishing that goal!!!!!
 
Do I want that one or NAPA part # NSP276505 1979 Jeep J20? The only diff is that the '79 uses a 3/4" input shaft rather than 13/16". If it makes a difference, I think my '72 FJ40 has a 3/4" steering shaft.

Also, you say to use a slip shaft. Is that just an adjustable steering shaft? I was thinking of using apiece of 3/4" solid steel to lengthen my steering shaft. Will this work?

Thanks for the help!

A "slip shaft" is for when an accident happens, so your steering column doesn't go thru you.
 
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Dude, I,m not suppose to advertise here, but you really need some help. Go to the Downey website and check out the steering shafts with u-joints & slip yoke. Yes you need a slip yoke!!! Yes you have to match the splines of your gear boxes input shaft with the splines of your lower u-joint. Your job is to do a steering conversion that will keep your family alive, and some of the steering comments on this forum would not have you accomplishing that goal!!!!!
Jim, it is not that big of a deal.

Yes, the conversion needs to be done properly for a multitude of reasons, but it is not that tough.

A slip shaft is necessary IMHO Just so you do not put the steering wheel through your chest in an emergency.. Pure safety. And an important one. But not having one does not stop the steering system from working properly.

A spud shaft is not necessary. A spud shaft just elongates the input shaft of the steering box. Most mounting box setups do not require a spud shaft any more. They are not required for a Scout sag setup.

There are 2 basic spline differences in the sag boxes. It is commonly a crap shoot to see if you are getting one or the other. Mostly because they are interchangeable. I have seen both patterns in 4 turn boxes and in Scout boxes. Same thing with the older inverted flare Vs O ring hose designs.

I do like the Scout conversion as well. It is easy to install and does not require cutting the frame. Just the inner apron on the fender. No bib cutting or radiator replacement. (there may be some modification to the shock mount depending on a couple of things)

The standard sag conversion is a good one as well.

FJ60 is similar to Scout setup and works great.

Drag link is going to be an issue no matter what box you use. I believe that Luke at 4x4 labs has all fo the necessary taps for wahtever you want to do, most likely Poser does as well. There are options out there...
 
Dude, I,m not suppose to advertise here, but you really need some help. Go to the Downey website and check out the steering shafts with u-joints & slip yoke. Yes you need a slip yoke!!! Yes you have to match the splines of your gear boxes input shaft with the splines of your lower u-joint. Your job is to do a steering conversion that will keep your family alive, and some of the steering comments on this forum would not have you accomplishing that goal!!!!!

I have checked out your website (so much so that I almost have it memorized) and it has a lot of great products on it! I just need to win the lotto now! Sorry I ask so many questions, but I am trying to figure out the reasoning/mechanics behind the workings. Once I understand the mechanics, workings and reasoning I will be able to make a much more educated decision in order to keep both myself and my family safe in the Cruiser. I definately will be calling you once I am ready to get started with this project! Thanks for the help:beer:
 
the slip shaft outta be required on any rig that may see street use...the collapse is what keeps the column from making you into skewer meat...lol

I don't run one on my rig...instead, I have loose u-joints in the steering, and other issues as the firewall moves differently from the frame....PITA...big time...run a slip...

Some stock GM ones can easily be modified to work great, running the rag joint at the steering box and a nylon pin in the slip to keep it from causing other issues (yes, drilling/pinning once you have the length adjusted is another requirement...I've screwed that up too..haha)
 
Some stock GM ones can easily be modified to work great, running the rag joint at the steering box and a nylon pin in the slip to keep it from causing other issues (yes, drilling/pinning once you have the length adjusted is another requirement...I've screwed that up too..haha)


Initally that is what I had on my 40.

the old impala that I got the box out of had a slip shaft as well.

one end was 3/4" DD and the other end was tubing that was 3/4" ID.. a short piece of 3/4" bar stock (or 3/4 DD) and a 3/4 DD to 3/4DD U joint to adapt the LC steering column to the steering box..
 
for the yoke/ujoint to the box, find a local steering gear rebuilder. they probably have buckets of old assy's that you can go through. they may even have a slip shaft there, but if not, find an old fj55 steering column.
 
Patent description:
A collapsible telescopic steering apparatus comprises a steering column having an inner tube and an outer tube which are engaged with each other. The engagement state of the tubes is switchable between a press-fit state and a loose-fit state. Upon vehicle collision, the tubes in the press-fit state are slid relative to each other for shock absorption. For telescopic adjustment, the tubes in the loose-fit state are slid relative to each other to adjust the fore-and-aft position of a steering wheel.

Commonly known as a Borgesen steering shaft.
Dont think this kit comes with a slip shaft, looks like you cut to fit for the other U Joint. its cheaper that way...... Of course that kit will work but its not AS safe.......especially on a mod with the power steering unit so close to the front bumper....something to think about.
I picked mine at a yard from an old chevy pickup and cut to suit.
heres a link from Jegs of what it likes like new.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_100640_-1

hope that clears things up for ya.
 
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old thread but toss in my 2 Cent and agree with early comment. AGR is a crap shoot. after i recieved mine in the mail (supposed ready to go) I had to mail it back to them to rebuild. Right 0ut of the box it would only turn left and not right. they said it had a bad centering valve???? or something like that. Point is where is the quality control. cost me shipping x2. Same with MAF bought a h55 tranny and had to pay the extra $350 to ship it back after it failed on the very first trip. (they were super squirrely about the warranty on the phone blaming the installation) once they recieved it they honored the warranty and said the oiling pump had come off on the inside and went through the gears making a big mess of things. It still makes noises like crazy. SIDE TRACK sorry but i need to vent. whew.
 
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Piggie, You actually have a third choice on Saginaw boxes:
(a) dirty, defective poo-poo from a wrecking yard.
(b) overly heavy duty from AGR (can cause steering system damage)
(c) remanufactured Downey box. Advantages are Rebuilt, all SS internal parts and dual stage valving (same as AGR), no 1500 lbs. that tears up the system, plus Downeys advasntage is we know exactly what the threads are and the spline count is so we don't screw up all the matching parts when filling your order.
 
Hi All:

Check out the Saginaw conversion kits from Cruisers Outfitters in Utah:

http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/powersteering.html

Regards,

Alan

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I have come up with a few more questions as I have been doing my research for my PS conversion. I have been searching the archives and using the websites listed on the tech links page, but I still have a few specific questions.

- What is a spud shaft and it is needed in a saginaw conversion?

- Do I first box the frame and then use a mounting plate, or does the mounting plate serve to box the frame as well as mount the gearbox? What about an extra plate on the outside of the framerail, is it needed? Do I need to box both sides (pass and driver)?

- With Downeys mounting plate, do I still need to box the rail and do I still need a plate on the outisde of the drivers side frame rail?

- With respect to the additional length of steering shaft w/ u-joints; Can I use a 3/4'' shaft with u-joints at each end from another vehicle to connect my shaft to the gearbox?

I know I have a lot of questions and I GREATLY appreciate those of you taking the time to answer them.
 

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