Sagging Driver Door. Adjust, fix, or replace hinges? (1 Viewer)

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Just adjusted my drivers door upward a tad. When closing, it was contacting the striker and the whole door lifted up about 1/4” while it was latching. The upper hinge pin is loose and worn. 309k on the truck.

Using a 12mm S-wrench (link below): I slightly loosened the two screws on the body side of the upper hinge, whacked the hinge forward about 3mm with a rubber mallet and wood block, tightened up the screws and tested. The door was a smidge high so I loosened the screws again, leaned on the door a bit to move it back down, re-tightened and re-tested. A 2mm shift was perfect.

Amazon product ASIN B06Y3MNYZ1
Did you feel the tool a good investment and needed?
 
Did you feel the tool a good investment and needed?
I’ve adjusted every Toyota that’s come to my garage to the owners’ unexpected delight. It’s a pretty quick and easy polishing step that they appreciate. Just loosen the top bolts a tad, lift up the door and gently test the latch engagement with the handle pulled. When it’s aligned snug down the top bolts and boom, showroom.
 
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Happy to have found this thread as mine has developed a whistling from the door sag creating an improper seal at the top of the door. Ordered the tool and both hinges for the drivers side. Part numbers below for reference.

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To anyone that has done this:

is the proper tool just the right length or overly long?

I ask because the cheap-ass in me is considering buying this 15 dollar kit from harbor freight that has a 12mm s wrench. granted its much much shorter...but wondering if it'll get the job done.



 
To anyone that has done this:

is the proper tool just the right length or overly long?

I ask because the cheap-ass in me is considering buying this 15 dollar kit from harbor freight that has a 12mm s wrench. granted its much much shorter...but wondering if it'll get the job done.



I just replaced my hinges today and I purchased the cheap version on Amazon similar to the hf version where the wrench is small. If you take the door off I think you can get by with the cheap wrench for sure. In fact if you take the door off you probably don't need the special wrench at all (regular crescent wrench will probably do). If you plan on just adjusting with the door on I found the short wrench a challenge. Doable but almost easier to remove the door than mess with the short wrench if not taking the door off. I ended up taking the door off 3 times to get it just right. Quick to do once you get the hang of it. I purchased a used passenger side set of hinges on eBay. My original upper had lots of play and the lower had just a little play 166k on my rig. The replacement hinges had no play from a passenger side 100 series with 89k. I looked into rav4 hinges but they all had a ton of miles.
 
Just adjusted my drivers door upward a tad. When closing, it was contacting the striker and the whole door lifted up about 1/4” while it was latching. The upper hinge pin is loose and worn. 309k on the truck.

Using a 12mm S-wrench (link below): I slightly loosened the two screws on the body side of the upper hinge, whacked the hinge forward about 3mm with a rubber mallet and wood block, tightened up the screws and tested. The door was a smidge high so I loosened the screws again, leaned on the door a bit to move it back down, re-tightened and re-tested. A 2mm shift was perfect.

Amazon product ASIN B06Y3MNYZ1
@Ayune would you please measure total length of the S-wrench and report it here for me? I'm look at to use a fan clutch tool, if long enough.
 
@Ayune would you please measure total length of the S-wrench and report it here for me? I'm look at to use a fan clutch tool, if long enough.
The wrench @Ayune linked is 11” long, just used it today. Felt just about right to me, and can’t see adjusting the body side bolts without it (or something similar).

EDIT: And from a failure mode analysis angle, I bet the door starts to sag from people pulling themselves up or down from the cab, which eventually misaligns the striker, and that’s what ends up causing the pins to get sloppy. Caught mine in time, it’s still tight and was just moving the door a bit each time I closed it.

EDIT 2: And the thing about the full size tool that makes this so easy is that the head is offset out of plane with the body of the wrench (different offset on each side, for driver and passenger doors), so it clears the hinge easily. A flat s-type wrench or fan clutch tool wouldn’t be so easy to use.
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I have always pulled a few bolts on the fenders, pull it partially away from the body and that gives you easy access to all the hinge bolts. No need for special tool at all!
 
I have always pulled a few bolts on the fenders, pull it partially away from the body and that gives you easy access to all the hinge bolts. No need for special tool at all!
And that works too...but I hardly miss an excuse to purchase another tool!
 
The wrench @Ayune linked is 11” long, just used it today. Felt just about right to me, and can’t see adjusting the body side bolts without it (or something similar).

EDIT: And from a failure mode analysis angle, I bet the door starts to sag from people pulling themselves up or down from the cab, which eventually misaligns the striker, and that’s what ends up causing the pins to get sloppy. Caught mine in time, it’s still tight and was just moving the door a bit each time I closed it.

EDIT 2: And the thing about the full size tool that makes this so easy is that the head is offset out of plane with the body of the wrench (different offset on each side, for driver and passenger doors), so it clears the hinge easily. A flat s-type wrench or fan clutch tool wouldn’t be so easy to use.
View attachment 2652151
I'd imagine the offset would make this job much easier. The short wrench is long enough for the most part but it hits the hinge lip because there it's no offset...
 
The sunex wrench set on Amazon's 12/13 s-wrench is 6.5 inches long
THX
The wrench @Ayune linked is 11” long, just used it today. Felt just about right to me, and can’t see adjusting the body side bolts without it (or something similar).

EDIT: And from a failure mode analysis angle, I bet the door starts to sag from people pulling themselves up or down from the cab, which eventually misaligns the striker, and that’s what ends up causing the pins to get sloppy. Caught mine in time, it’s still tight and was just moving the door a bit each time I closed it.

EDIT 2: And the thing about the full size tool that makes this so easy is that the head is offset out of plane with the body of the wrench (different offset on each side, for driver and passenger doors), so it clears the hinge easily. A flat s-type wrench or fan clutch tool wouldn’t be so easy to use.
View attachment 2652151
I assume yours is the JTC 4093 $40 12mm both end?

11" may work. I'd like to have ~16" length. Than may be long enough for fan clutch (FC) nuts use, more often than the occasional door. It's 11" from FC nut to just at top of upper radiator hose bypass joint goose neck clamp (flesh eater). So gues I'll have to buy one and just try it. If you see a blood stained one for sell on ebay, you'll know it didn't workout. :eek:

 
Has anyone used the longer wrench mentioned above to adjust the lower hinge without removing the door? The lower hinge bolt closer to the front of the car is deep in there and feel like accessing this bolt might not be possible even with the longer wrench due to inadequate clearance. With the shorter 6.5 inch long wrench it is not possible to get to that bolt with the door on.
 
THX

I assume yours is the JTC 4093 $40 12mm both end?

11" may work. I'd like to have ~16" length. Than may be long enough for fan clutch (FC) nuts use, more often than the occasional door. It's 11" from FC nut to just at top of upper radiator hose bypass joint goose neck clamp (flesh eater). So gues I'll have to buy one and just try it. If you see a blood stained one for sell on ebay, you'll know it didn't workout. :eek:

Yep, thats the model I have. Longer would work too, but find something with an offset head if you can.
 
Has anyone used the longer wrench mentioned above to adjust the lower hinge without removing the door? The lower hinge bolt closer to the front of the car is deep in there and feel like accessing this bolt might not be possible even with the longer wrench due to inadequate clearance. With the shorter 6.5 inch long wrench it is not possible to get to that bolt with the door on.
my adjustment with the 11” wrench was all made with the door still mounted. But, Similar to @Ayune I didn’t even touch the lower hinge.

EDIT: Just checked, the 11” tool also reaches both lower hinge body-side bolts with no issues.
 
Dusting off this thread. In typical fashion , I slept on buying this wrench and it appears to be out of stock everywhere.

anyone know a place that sells it? Or better yet...anyone interested in selling their wrench that is collecting dust?
 
bumping this again. Anyone that owns this wrench care to let me buy it off you? cant find this wrench anywhere. guessing covid production delays.


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