This is a great way to do it but unless it’s some special vehicle or has sentimental value to the owner it makes no sense to do this much work. I would just cut my losses, drive it as is or sell it and get a clean rust free vehicle. You CANT reverse 20-30 years of NJ salt damage by wire wheeling and spraying chemicals here and there. 100s are not that hard to find and the high mileage cars are not even expensive.
Rusty lc100- (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter haghyk
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- Thread starter
- #22
Technically 4-5 years NJ then Georgia then Idaho and then ca since 2018
Regardless, based on what I’m seeing it’s a mess down there. Looks like a typical Chicago car that a dealer or someone else sprayed black crap all over the rust just to hide it before selling it to the next guy. See this stuff at every used car lot around here.
I’ll be honest in one of your pics there is a very boxy looking portion of the frame, that is not typically there. Having had the same issues as this one appears to have, I’ve been down many of the roads you’re looking down. Also having welded in a section on mine, it looks like someone has done this in that boxier region of the frame. If this has had some welding done to the frame I would strongly haggle prices. Depending on the price and what you plan to do, I wouldn’t care much about it, but I do all of my own work and I am very versed in rusty Toyotas. My rusty cruiser was just a bit less rust than this when I bought it with 240k for $4500 8 years ago. She’s still on the road and over 300k and sees 100-200 miles of mild/easy trails annually.
- Thread starter
- #25
What treatment did you do to it?
I used a grinder to clean up and then Correseal. Worked well for a while, now on to fluid film. Had to cut a chunk out and weld in a new piece. I pick and choose battles and places that will get OEM vs aftermarket. After 8 years of daily driving and off-road use, I have fully gotten my monies worth of her. Now it’s just a waiting game of how bad a fix is as to if I move on. Steering rack is rearing its head on me now. Not too stoked but might go for it. The steering shaft scares me on a rusty beast. As @Kabanstva said, you are going to be fighting fasteners forever, so consider that as well. Making rust prolong is one job, fasteners coming loose without breaking is another. PB blaster, a torch, and anti-seize are your best allies in this battle.
- Thread starter
- #27
Would jumping over the grinder to ff be your suggestion? Or worth paying someone to grind and sand
It’s up to you and your purchase price. If you don’t have much into it, go for it. It’s not needed for use with FF but it doesn’t exactly hurt either.
To me... it sounds like you do not want to get your hands into this clean up, so bring it to a shop that does more than just spray fluid all over everything. There is no simple solution or remedy...
- Thread starter
- #30
I'll try to find a lift to get under - but just worried I may grind stuff into broken
Exiled
SILVER Star
Given the current (soft) market for 100s, I don't think I would bother with this one, especially in CA. If this was a cherished family rig, then follow the advice others have shared and spend the time and effort to grind everything down, treat it with rust converter, fix the areas that will need metal replacement (I see a few on the pictures), and then treat it with Fluid Film or Woolwax to prevent further damage. But if you don't have an emotional attachment to the rig, there are WAY better 100s out there than this one. Just my $0.02, I live in Texas now but spent a lot of time dealing with East Coast rust living in Delmarva.
Also, it's less likely that you'll find shops with the right experience to deal with significant rust in your area, if you decide to farm out the work.
Also, it's less likely that you'll find shops with the right experience to deal with significant rust in your area, if you decide to farm out the work.
See image. This frame section shows delamination that looks suspicious. I would pound this area with a hammer, and see if a larger hole develops. If so, you might need some metal repair.
If this truck were mine (even in Calif.,) I'd peels/scrape/sandblast the rust (as desired) and then coat with Fluid Film and leave it.
If this truck were mine (even in Calif.,) I'd peels/scrape/sandblast the rust (as desired) and then coat with Fluid Film and leave it.
NEVER apply Rubberized undercoating. It will speed up the corrosion 1000%!
Spray a penetrant lubricant (NOT on rubber bushings and mounts) on all metal. Spray into the frame as well. Do it twice on the first year and once each year after. Gear oil WON'T wash out but damages rubber. I apply gear oil to frame after applying a penetrant. Gear oil will lock the penetrant onto the frame. Drive on a dirt road to get some dust to stick onto gear oil. That is the best way to keep moisture out.
Spray a penetrant lubricant (NOT on rubber bushings and mounts) on all metal. Spray into the frame as well. Do it twice on the first year and once each year after. Gear oil WON'T wash out but damages rubber. I apply gear oil to frame after applying a penetrant. Gear oil will lock the penetrant onto the frame. Drive on a dirt road to get some dust to stick onto gear oil. That is the best way to keep moisture out.
cruiserbrett
GOLD Star
That truck isn’t worth the effort. The rust flaking here is likely everywhere. Missed SteveH’s post-beat me to it. But I have a truck from VA that’s way way cleaner than this.
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@haghyk you’re getting advice that’s all over the place, but think about a disc grinder or a wire wheel on all those contoured and partially obstructed surfaces. There is no way to access most of the rust with those tools. Unless you have access to incredibly cheap labor or are willing to pay for a body-off chemical dip or sandblasting, I’d leave it all alone. The rust in itself is a form of protective coating, and exposing bare metal just buys the debt of having to maintain it. You’ve got a few spots that look concerning, but just enjoy the truck as-is for a few years and save your money for a better one in the future.
One of the things I might do if the truck were mine is to replace the rusty hardware. Nuts and bolts are relatively inexpensive, but the old ones have to be handled carefully or they will break and you’ll create a problem. I’d start with any hardware that needs to be removed for service, then I’d carefully inspect bolts that hold anything structural. You’ll need lots of penetrant, patience, and some luck. Buy high-quality, grade 5 or better, zinc-chromate coated automotive hardware, NOT Chinesium garbage from Amazon.
One of the things I might do if the truck were mine is to replace the rusty hardware. Nuts and bolts are relatively inexpensive, but the old ones have to be handled carefully or they will break and you’ll create a problem. I’d start with any hardware that needs to be removed for service, then I’d carefully inspect bolts that hold anything structural. You’ll need lots of penetrant, patience, and some luck. Buy high-quality, grade 5 or better, zinc-chromate coated automotive hardware, NOT Chinesium garbage from Amazon.
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