Rusted AHC Accumulator won't come off with 36mm Fan Wrench...Solution! (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 24, 2022
Threads
5
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22
Location
Riverside, IL
After spending 3 hours trying expensive tools and strap wrenches I called my 63 year old dad who just knows things. My Lexus 2003 LX 470 was bouncing down the road like a pogo stick for 6 months and I finally had enough. I didn't want to spend the quoted $3000 at the dealership, so I purchased 2 new front and 2 new rear OEM AHC accumulators from Japan on Ebay. After properly bleeding the AHC system, I started in the rear and the accumulators came off clean with a 36 mm fan wrench. The fronts were a different story, the fan wrench kept slipping (previously stripped) off of the accumulator. I spent the next 3 hours trying a $17 strap wrench from NAPA, a pair of $45 channellock xslim adjustable wrench, and a $12 plastic and rubber Pennzoil strap wrench. I broke the Pennzoil rubber strap wrench, couldn't get the NAPA strap wrench to work in the tight space, and the channelllocks just slipped off the same way as the fan wrench. After talking to my dad who is a retired Lt. Col. ARMY veteran who just knows things (also a mechanic before entering the service), he came up with a solution that took 15 min. Pictured below I drilled a shallow hole with a 1/2in bit in the old accumulator. Using a brass drift punch, at an angle I smacked the end of the drift a couple times with a hammer. It immediately broke loose. Lesson learned, lots of prayer and reaching out to people who are smarter than you!

I hope this is a newer solution that helps someone, I searched and couldn't find this advice anywhere, I'm sure it's out there somewhere and maybe even on this forum somewhere.
Accumulator 2.jpeg
Accumulator 1.jpeg
 
Care to share the listing you bought the globes from? Wondering why you went with that vs ordering from amayama or any of those other overseas places that have legit OEM.
 
Care to share the listing you bought the globes from? Wondering why you went with that vs ordering from amayama or any of those other overseas places that have legit OEM.
Speed of shipping was the main reason. Amayama lists 1-3 months for delivery. I don't always trust eBay, but the listing and reviews seemed legit. The parts came quick (5 days) and were in the right OEM Toyota packaging, and looked to be OEM parts. This is my family cruiser and having it out of commission for more than a day is rough. My other vehicle is an 89 Ford F-150 single cab (bench seat), its hard to fit a wife 3 kids and a dog in there.

 
Completely understandable. The ebay link you sent says it ships from Japan though. You got it within 5 days of ordering? I wonder why Amayama is 1-3 months.. I've been thinking of taking the plunge on new globes myself. In my case it's a nice to have, not a need to have thing, so it's hard to justify $600 yet.
 
Speed of shipping was the main reason. Amayama lists 1-3 months for delivery. I don't always trust eBay, but the listing and reviews seemed legit. The parts came quick (5 days) and were in the right OEM Toyota packaging, and looked to be OEM parts. This is my family cruiser and having it out of commission for more than a day is rough. My other vehicle is an 89 Ford F-150 single cab (bench seat), its hard to fit a wife 3 kids and a dog in there.

Do you have any pics of markings on the globes and of the packaging? I know there are pics in the ad, but I'd love to see pics of what you received so we can let the mind trust here suss it out!

Also this is a great tip about how you removed the globes! Thank you.

As another option since you said your fan clutch wrench was slipping, I found that Park Tool (bike stuff) makes a 36mm crow foot wrench that fits the globe perfectly. I plan to use this when I need to change mine out. (Bonus is that this also fits the large nut for an espresso machine E61 group head. ;-0)

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Mine fought me hard too!


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Is anyone going to mention the danger of drilling too deeply into a nitrogen and oil filled device? Wear serious eye protection and don't drill too deeply!
 
Is anyone going to mention the danger of drilling too deeply into a nitrogen and oil filled device? Wear serious eye protection and don't drill too deeply!
I drilled deeply - actually punctured into the globe. Mine were already shot so there wasn't any pressure left and I had already drained the oil. But yes - drilling a pressurized steel container is a BAD IDEA.
 
Is anyone going to mention the danger of drilling too deeply into a nitrogen and oil filled device? Wear serious eye protection and don't drill too deeply!
Do you have any pics of markings on the globes and of the packaging? I know there are pics in the ad, but I'd love to see pics of what you received so we can let the mind trust here suss it out!

Also this is a great tip about how you removed the globes! Thank you.

As another option since you said your fan clutch wrench was slipping, I found that Park Tool (bike stuff) makes a 36mm crow foot wrench that fits the globe perfectly. I plan to use this when I need to change mine out. (Bonus is that this also fits the large nut for an espresso machine E61 group head. ;-0)

View attachment 3679561
View attachment 3679562
View attachment 3679564
That Park Tool looks great, that could have been a lifesaver. I attached Pics of the box th accumulators came in.

IMG_1226.jpeg
 
Mine just arrived from JDM Planet (Japan) but without the original boxes. The labels had been removed and taped to the bubble wrap.

Should I be worried? They certainly look legit.

I had ordered globes for my 570 from the same source last year and they were shipped in the original boxes. I suppose they could have removed the boxes to simplify shipping, but the original boxes were so tight fitting that it wouldn't have made much difference.

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@terrapin - how long did JDM Planet take to ship them? How much was shipping? Their price seems to beat even Amayama.
 
For this order (LX470), I placed the order Sept 16, it was processed (shipped?) Sept 25 and arrived Oct 1. So the actual shipping time was just under a week, but the overall time was two weeks. Fortunately I was not in a hurry.

My previous order last December for my 570 took just a week total. Shipping this time was just under $200 and the total cost was $709. I paid the premium because I wanted genuine Toyota parts. I hope that is what I received since they were not in the original box.
 
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After spending 3 hours trying expensive tools and strap wrenches I called my 63 year old dad who just knows things. My Lexus 2003 LX 470 was bouncing down the road like a pogo stick for 6 months and I finally had enough. I didn't want to spend the quoted $3000 at the dealership, so I purchased 2 new front and 2 new rear OEM AHC accumulators from Japan on Ebay. After properly bleeding the AHC system, I started in the rear and the accumulators came off clean with a 36 mm fan wrench. The fronts were a different story, the fan wrench kept slipping (previously stripped) off of the accumulator. I spent the next 3 hours trying a $17 strap wrench from NAPA, a pair of $45 channellock xslim adjustable wrench, and a $12 plastic and rubber Pennzoil strap wrench. I broke the Pennzoil rubber strap wrench, couldn't get the NAPA strap wrench to work in the tight space, and the channelllocks just slipped off the same way as the fan wrench. After talking to my dad who is a retired Lt. Col. ARMY veteran who just knows things (also a mechanic before entering the service), he came up with a solution that took 15 min. Pictured below I drilled a shallow hole with a 1/2in bit in the old accumulator. Using a brass drift punch, at an angle I smacked the end of the drift a couple times with a hammer. It immediately broke loose. Lesson learned, lots of prayer and reaching out to people who are smarter than you!

I hope this is a newer solution that helps someone, I searched and couldn't find this advice anywhere, I'm sure it's out there somewhere and maybe even on this forum somewhere.View attachment 3678732View attachment 3678731
Does your dad have any advice for when the rust has basically become one with where the nut meets the other part of the accumulator? I’ve wrenched, chiseled, hammered, drilled a hole and tapped. No luck. The layer of rust that has basically sealed these two areas has to be very thin, but damn it’s tough.
 
Does your dad have any advice for when the rust has basically become one with where the nut meets the other part of the accumulator? I’ve wrenched, chiseled, hammered, drilled a hole and tapped. No luck. The layer of rust that has basically sealed these two areas has to be very thin, but damn it’s tough.
Are you sure you are turning it the right direction? Lefty Loosey😀.

Seriously though, that's rough, I feel your pain. Lots of WD40 soaking overnight?!?

How many miles on the cruiser? I'm guessing it's a Northern vehicle.
 
Are you sure you are turning it the right direction? Lefty Loosey😀.

Seriously though, that's rough, I feel your pain. Lots of WD40 soaking overnight?!?

How many miles on the cruiser? I'm guessing it's a Northern vehicle.
Photo for reference. 03 LX from PA. It’s a real PITA.

IMG_1103.jpeg
 
Does your dad have any advice for when the rust has basically become one with where the nut meets the other part of the accumulator? I’ve wrenched, chiseled, hammered, drilled a hole and tapped. No luck. The layer of rust that has basically sealed these two areas has to be very thin, but damn it’s tough.
Have you tried making up new curse words to exorcise the rust demons? That can help you feel a little better too!
 
Photo for reference. 03 LX from PA. It’s a real PITA.

View attachment 3775640

Put some good heat insulation (like a welding blanket) to protect other stuff aournd it, keep a fire extinguisher handy, use brake clean to dry out everything as best as you can and then use a porpane torch to get that sucker red hot.

When I was trying to remove mine about a year ago, I didn't have to go that far. I drilled a hole, stuck a good size screwdriver in it and then use ratchet strap to pull on it to make it budge. I didn't have enough physical strength to move it by hand even with the leverage of a screw driver!
 
I have removed a few while doing delete conversions... I have used a needle gun to clean off as much rust gunk as possible, applied a rust disolver penetrant (Kimball-MidWest makes a good product... Inter-Lube delayed Viscosity) and used the crow's foot with ratchet. On a few occassions, drilled a small dimple into the globe and used an air hammer with pointed tip to break them free...
 

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