Rust Prevention - Michigan (1 Viewer)

[diesel22]

Hello all,

I have searched far and wide on here and across other sites in attempt to find the best info I can regarding rust prevention on my 100 series. I shipped an 06 from California, arriving today to West Michigan and am super excited but also scared s***less to drive her here right now. Our roads may be the worst in the country to vehicles.

I have owned a 3rd gen 4runner and now 5th gen that I've undercoated w/ Fluid Film. Consensus across forums is this really is the best way to prevent (outside of not driving it in the winter) rust on a beautifully dry frame. What else am I missing? Looking for some first-hand experience battling the elements in harsher areas of the country on your 100 series.

I've always tried to run my 4runners through car washes as much as I can but also stumbled upon some comments saying if I do Fluid Film on the undercarriage annually that I would want to avoid undercarriage washes on vehicle? Any truth to this?

Thanks so much for any help.

 

[saucebox]

I've always tried to run my 4runners through car washes as much as I can but also stumbled upon some comments saying if I do Fluid Film on the undercarriage annually that I would want to avoid undercarriage washes on vehicle? Any truth to this?

We don't get anything like what y'all do in the winter, but that's been my strategy for the last few years. Give it a spray prior to the first snow, and don't clean the undercarriage again until spring. Hopefully someone in the rust belt will chime in.

 

[Rhetoric]

Rust belt MN here where they liberally use salt and brine.

I brought a perfectly clean 07 LX from NC to Minnesota in 2021. I chose RP-342 as my truck was pristine and the stuff hangs in there far longer than FF will during all the melty times that happen throughout the season. I opt'd to use the underbody spray at car washes as it won't wash the RP-342 away and getting the salt off spots I missed is important.

My yearly fall PM includes:
- RP-342 for as much of the underside I can get to. I spend a good couple hours rolling around under the truck while it's in H.
- Fluid Film or Surface Shield for the inner frame rails. I will use 1-2 cans per frame rail with a 36" extension and 360 nozzle.

I also invested in a 3M 6900 full face respirator, peel off visor protectors, and P100 (2097) particulate filters. All those aerosols are awful for my lungs.

Just realize that you won't get it perfect and rust will form. But you will prolong the life one-hundred fold by doing prevention like this.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Lots of good threads with ideas out there.

 

[baltistyle]

Rust belt MN here where they liberally use salt and brine.

I brought a perfectly clean 07 LX from NC to Minnesota in 2021. I chose RP-342 as my truck was pristine and the stuff hangs in there far longer than FF will during all the melty times that happen throughout the season. I opt'd to use the underbody spray at car washes as it won't wash the RP-342 away and getting the salt off spots I missed is important.

My yearly fall PM includes:
- RP-342 for as much of the underside I can get to. I spend a good couple hours rolling around under the truck while it's in H.
- Fluid Film or Surface Shield for the inner frame rails. I will use 1-2 cans per frame rail with a 36" extension and 360 nozzle.

I also invested in a 3M 6900 full face respirator, peel off visor protectors, and P100 (2097) particulate filters. All those aerosols are awful for my lungs.

Just realize that you won't get it perfect and rust will form. But you will prolong the life one-hundred fold by doing prevention like this.

This really sums it up. Waxy products for everything exposed, and Fluid Film for everything internal. You need the FF because it creeps into the cracks and won't clog drains. Dont forget inside the rockers. Using the wand with nozzles makes it a breeze. Regardless of the longevity of the stated claim of the product or others experience, we dont know exactly how and where or when you drive, so id recommend yearly pre winter touchups. If you can, spray the salt off throughout the winter anytime the weather is above freezing. Brine is the worst because its so sticky but we use both in Md anytime there is threat of weather below about 33 degrees. FF has kept my 06 completely rust free over the past four years.

 

[SteveH]

All the rustproofing advice in this string is very sound. I grew up in Michigan (Midland) where brine was sprayed on the roads in my town and everything dissolved. Doing yearly touch-ups of rust prevention is critical. Rust is like erosion - you don't solve it with one attack, you merely defer its attack.

If this is your 'forever' fun four-wheeling baby, then don't drive it on the worst, gloppiest days. The worst thing you can do is park it in a heated or semi-heated garage. The heat activates the salt and the closed environment (along with Michigan humidity) assures that it will never dry. My neighbors heated their garage to 70F and had cars with rust holes in the doors after 2 years.

I would sure try to find a winter-beater and park your nice Calif. 100 inside all winter.

 

[delz05]

Agree with all... except I suggest Woolwax coating instead of FluidFilm. WW lasts longer, does not kill you with the smell, can be used on the inner frame as well as the exterior frame, won't wash away easily and can be used in the lower doors, hatch, rear quarters, front fenders etc... and will not "stink out" the truck!

 

[Kabanstva]

Agree with all... except I suggest Woolwax coating instead of FluidFilm. WW lasts longer, does not kill you with the smell, can be used on the inner frame as well as the exterior frame, won't wash away easily and can be used in the lower doors, hatch, rear quarters, front fenders etc... and will not "stink out" the truck!

Is there actually any evidence WW lasts longer than FF? I’ve been using FF for about a decade on my own cars and At work. I’ve also used CosmolineDirect, Amsoil, Boeshield, and maybe a few others I’m forgetting.

I recently did a truck that was sprayed with Woolwax by the customer. He got really good coverage with it. However the stuff just wipes off like melted butter with zero effort. I don’t see any long term difference between that an regular Fluid Film.

If you really want long lasting you wanna use Fluid Film Liquid AR which requires heating before application but cures to a much more resistant coating. It has better creeping characteristic than the Cosmoline-type coatings that cure within several hours to a candle-like consistency.

 

[reconranger]

After 23 years in Maine where winters are similar to the Caribbean or Florida, I have used FF mixed with used transmission oil and have a '99, '97, '06 and other vehicles where I don't worry about rust damage. Yes, there will be surface rust on areas that get constant spray.

I strongly agree with getting a respirator to spray (either Woolwax, FF or your protectant of choice)

 

[diesel22]

Thank you all for the feedback and recommendations! I'm going to look into the products mentioned like RP-342 in addition to the fluid film I still have after doing my 4runner this past winter. I really don't want to drive the thing to be honest but don't have space to store a second vehicle for the winter if I even wanted to think about going that route.

Just hate to think about the idea of rusting this think out after a few winters here in Michigan but I'm going to do my best to prep her for the next 20 years and 364k miles.

 

[SteveH]

@diesel22 - at least (unlike most Michiganders) you're going to try hard to stop the rust. I'm astounded at midwesterners who just assume all cars will rust out in 7 years, as if no preventative measures can be taken.

 

[Rhetoric]

@diesel22 - at least (unlike most Michiganders) you're going to try hard to stop the rust. I'm astounded at midwesterners who just assume all cars will rust out in 7 years, as if no preventative measures can be taken.

This.

And "my car is bad in the snow" comments.

But when I bring up snow tires I get a bunch of excuses as to why they won't buy them.

 

[TCEd]

I just drove a 100 home to Traverse City from Austin, TX. I've been using Corrosion Free on our GX460 and plan the samton the100. It's a clear gelled mineral oil.

 

[diesel22]

I just drove a 100 home to Traverse City from Austin, TX. I've been using Corrosion Free on our GX460 and plan the samton the100. It's a clear gelled mineral oil.

looking into this as well now - What product do you use for application? Amazon has the kit at like $500 or more w/ their gun. Do you go in a car wash like normal w/ this and not cause any issues?

 

[TCEd]

looking into this as well now - What product do you use for application? Amazon has the kit at like $500 or more w/ their gun. Do you go in a car wash like normal w/ this and not cause any issues?

I had it done at a shop here in T.C.. They pressure wash the underside, let it dry and than apply the product.

 

[SteveH]

@diesel22

For $500, there are there are commercial rustproofers in Michigan - here's one semi-close to you: Undercoating Rust Prevention – LEVEL Upfitters of Grand Rapids - https://levelupfitters.com/undercoating-rust-prevention/

Here's another one that uses Woolwax: Undercoating Rust Proofing (On Sale $100 Off) - SprayTech Coatings in Grand Rapids - https://spraytechcoatings.org/rust-proofing-undercoating-near-me/

It might make sense to have it professionally done, and then YOU (every time you get under your truck) look for areas that need touch-up and shoot them with Fluid Film, Woolwax, etc. Depends on how you want to spend your money and how much you trust these people to put enough on. Under no circumstances, should anyone apply a fully drying 'tar' type undercoating or sound deadener. It is literally worse than nothing at all, as it peels back and ultimately traps water/salt/sand and promotes rust-out.

 

[rexington14]

Get yourself a beater for a few thousand bucks and let that 100 hibernate in the garage for winter. (Who wouldn't want another vehicle to mess around with?)

This is the only way to keep the frame CLEAN. Clean from rust. And clean from chemical sprays/films/waxes/coatings/shields/whatever.

 

[diesel22]

Get yourself a beater for a few thousand bucks and let that 100 hibernate in the garage for winter. (Who wouldn't want another vehicle to mess around with?)

This is the only way to keep the frame CLEAN. Clean from rust. And clean from chemical sprays/films/waxes/coatings/shields/whatever.

If only the wife was on board w/ this right now, haha

 

[diesel22]

@diesel22

For $500, there are there are commercial rustproofers in Michigan - here's one semi-close to you: Undercoating Rust Prevention – LEVEL Upfitters of Grand Rapids - https://levelupfitters.com/undercoating-rust-prevention/

Here's another one that uses Woolwax: Undercoating Rust Proofing (On Sale $100 Off) - SprayTech Coatings in Grand Rapids - https://spraytechcoatings.org/rust-proofing-undercoating-near-me/

It might make sense to have it professionally done, and then YOU (every time you get under your truck) look for areas that need touch-up and shoot them with Fluid Film, Woolwax, etc. Depends on how you want to spend your money and how much you trust these people to put enough on. Under no circumstances, should anyone apply a fully drying 'tar' type undercoating or sound deadener. It is literally worse than nothing at all, as it peels back and ultimately traps water/salt/sand and promotes rust-out.

Really like this idea, thank you! I'm going to check around

 

[diesel22]

How does your undercarriage look after a few winters with this process?