I Woolwaxed the underside of my rig and haven't found it to be too bad, even after doing a ton of wrenching on it (including installing a lift after the Woolwax). Mine has attracted a nice layer of dirt and is now more of a really tacky grease rather than a liquid. It does get on you, but it also washes off of skin and clothes a lot easier than oil (in addition to practically being a skin lotion!). It has also held up great on my rig after a year, despite a ton of water and mud crossings, and regular washing with an undercarriage attachment. The only places that require regular touch-up are the bottom of my rock sliders and the rear wheelwells (as I blast them pretty hard with the pressure washer).
Rust on GX 460
- Thread starter harishreddy
- Start date
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It’s been more of a pain when welding on rigs. I think I might apply a layer with a brush, that way I can pinpoint areas and hold off on sections I know I’m going to be working on in the near future.
I can see that. Will definitely need to clean mine off really well when it eventually gets a BMC.
FYI when it is fresh it wipes off really easy with a cloth. I apply mine with the Woolwax spray gun and a compressor. It's kind of hard to get off when it turns into the crusty lanolin/dirt grease
.Howdy!
Looking at a 2015 GX460. What are y’all’s opinions on this rust?
Priced at $29k with 64k miles. Not sure if I should look for a rust free one for more $$$ or buy this one for less. I plan to use as a side vehicle for family forest trail runs.
Looking at a 2015 GX460. What are y’all’s opinions on this rust?
Priced at $29k with 64k miles. Not sure if I should look for a rust free one for more $$$ or buy this one for less. I plan to use as a side vehicle for family forest trail runs.
Having restored mine as best as I could with similar rust...if you can walk and find less rust do it. Mine was at 103k miles with equal or less rust. It's not impossible to fix frame wise. What is impossible to fix is rust on the KDSS system lines which they do. If you pull that KDSS skid off and pull the driver splash guard off you can see how good/bad it is. Also the front bottom radiator support is a huge rust magnet. It's not always worth the hassle plus for $29k with a declining economy and high interest rates if I'm paying that much it's going to be rust free. My 2 cents is walk and find rust free if able. It took me roughly 2 weekends of corroseal/rustoleum painting to get the frame somewhat rust free. Even then you still need bi-yearly fluid film treatments in the rust belt.
Yeah that makes sense and was kinda my thought. I’ll keep looking.
Plenty of rust free ones out there.
Just need to find the right one at the right price. Appreciate it.
Yeah agreed.The rust on that GX isn't too bad, but for $29K, it should be rust free
Saw two others:
2016 with 115k miles for $26k
2018 with 45k miles for $40k
Both looked great underneath.
Prices are kinda all over right now but seems like they’re dropping.
Must be the crap mpgs these get in combination with the economy.
Personally I searched High and low for a rust free GX470 in Kansas. In the end it was more of a compromise instead of rust free. I have what you have pictured and have spent the last week doing a lift on it. As I'm adding new components I'm wire wheeling brake clean blowing then treating with POR 15 in essential areas. I also used High temp primer after rust removal. It's just to get me through till the spring and summer months where I'll spend weeks disassembling components and parts to do the entire undercarriage in POR 15. Any GX you will buy will have to eventually have this done. Consider it preventative Maintenance. I got an outstanding deal on my GX because of the known issues. Next up is the secondary air injection. I've got all the parts just waiting on gaskets. It's a compromise of how much are you as a enthusiast willing to get hands on with these sought after vehicles. They all will require a more advanced level of hands on to keep them good to go. It's the trade off IMO. These can nickle and dime a guy to death if not willing to do most yourself. Much like Big Horsepower builds they need constant attention and in most cases is a game of finding the next weakest link.
If you do get one, even rust free, I would still suggest an annual Fluid Film/Woolwax treatment to keep it that way. It's cheap and easy to DIY and has stopped existing corrosion from worsening on my 470.
r2m
Richard
Prices are probably also reflecting the high interest rates now. Now is a great time if you can pay cash.
