Rust Converters

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MSGGrunt

MSGGrunt

Joined
Dec 2, 2004
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I live in the North East and my 1997 FZJ80 has started to develope minor surface rust mainly on the frame around the factory welds. I'd like to address this prior to this winter. Has anyone ever used or had any experience with rust converters? I'm thinking of using one of these converters and then undercoating it for even greater protection. A couple of sites I found

http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/MetalCoatings/rust-converter.htm

http://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Converter-Gallon-P40C10.aspx
 
Is Rust Bullet and POR 15 the same type of product? I'm looking for something I can spry for better coverage.
 
those are similar products, but not the same, they are for the same use though, to protect the metal. You will need something to convert the rust first, better yet, cut it out completely if possible and then coat with rust bullet. I have used a product called RUST MORT and it has worked very well. I have also heard good things about some POR 15 rust conversion products, ie: metal ready. I plan to use metal ready when I do the underbelly of my 55 project. Not fond of the por 15 coating, so I plan to go with Zero Rust which for a topcoat which I have had great experiences with. good luck, Noah
 
I have not had good results with off-the-shelf rust converters from places like Lowes, Home Depot, etc. They seem to be a short term inhibitor - not a rust proofer. I have not used Rust Bullet but have heard from a friend who is using it that it works well for light rust, is easy to apply as it comes in a spray can, but must be top coated. He pays about $7 a can I believe.

I am currently using POR15 on my Pig. The prep steps can become frustrating (all paint must be gone if you don't use POR's special primer) but once you strip off old paint you scrub with Marine Clean (degreaser) then Metal Ready (kind of a rust converter but more of a metal prep step) then paint with POR. The POR goes on smooth and thick and dries HARD. If you have thick rust to deal with or are in a climate where vehicles are rust prone I recommend POR15. Check the link in my sig for some pics. If you don't have the time for POR or don't have the need for a heavy duty rust paint then I would use the Rust Bullet.
 
1973Guppie said:
... I have used a product called RUST MORT and it has worked very well. ...
Click to expand...

Rust Mort, Jasco Metal Etch and a bunch of other brands are good rust converters. The active ingredient is phosphoric acid, when in contact with rust it converts it to black oxide effectively killing it, the same stuff that is on impact sockets. Black oxide is a good hard coating, basically dead rust, but it's not good at resisting future rust, so must be top coated with good paint or finish of choice.

Also it's a weak acid, so it will etch concrete, put holes in cloth, normal acid handling precautions are needed.
 
eventhough said:
I have not used Rust Bullet but have heard from a friend who is using it that it works well for light rust, is easy to apply as it comes in a spray can, but must be top coated.
Click to expand...

Rust Bullet can be top coated but does not need to be. Also I have never seen it in a spray can. http://www.rustbullet.com/index.htm

I have used this rust converter, http://www.gemplers.com/shop/restoration/rustfighting/RCQ.html and been happy with it.

You can also buy rustoleum spray paint at hardware stores. A lot of folks like it.
 
Dave-T said:
Rust Bullet can be top coated but does not need to be. Also I have never seen it in a spray can. http://www.rustbullet.com/index.htm

I have used this rust converter, http://www.gemplers.com/shop/restoration/rustfighting/RCQ.html and been happy with it.

You can also buy rustoleum spray paint at hardware stores. A lot of folks like it.
Click to expand...

My bad - you are right...and now for the life of me I can not think of the paint that comes in rattle cans....I"m searching...found it - Zero Rust. A friend is restoring a 40 with it and is pretty happy.
 
I have also been using zero-rust on everything on the frame and engine compartment and have been very happy with it. I blasted the frame and applied two coats of zero-rust, then a single topcoat of rustoleum semi-gloss, turned out very nice. I used the grey color on the firewall and that looks great as well. The rattle cans are great, when combined with brush on, you can get in hard to reach spots.
 
The most important step to the rust is spraying it with phospheric acid(i.e., POR's Metal Ready). I found it by the gallon at home depot for $13.00. POR sells it by the quart for $15.75 or by the gallon for $30.25. I even called them and they admitted it was in fact simply phos. acid package for them and resold. Mix it 1-part phos.acid to 3-parts water, in a empty windex bottle and mist spray the rust. Usually get a foaming action. Once it doesn't foam anymore, let dry. The rust will convert back and a white chauky coating adheres to the bare metal. Works excellent.
 
themfc-

the product i found and use is from Home Depot($13.00 Gallon). It is called Phosphoric Prep & Etch. The instructions say for phosphotizing metal-dilute 1 part product with 3 parts water. For rust removal, apply full strength to affected areas. Hope this helps.
 
You can buy Ospho for fairly cheap-it's phosphoric acid. Rustoleum also sells a rust encapsulation paint. These paints aren't as good as POR15, IMO.
 
Check out the advertising banner for Rust Bullet on this site. There is a comparison between RB and POR. Not as many steps with the RB.

Later,
 
Diesel42 said:
themfc-

the product i found and use is from Home Depot($13.00 Gallon). It is called Phosphoric Prep & Etch. The instructions say for phosphotizing metal-dilute 1 part product with 3 parts water. For rust removal, apply full strength to affected areas. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

x2 on this. I bought a gallon of it and worked well. I put two applications with full strength and it most of the rust came off.

Rudy
 
Rudical said:
x2 on this. I bought a gallon of it and worked well. I put two applications with full strength and it most of the rust came off.

Rudy
Click to expand...

Hey all,
I realize this is an old post, but Im in the process of the rust fight right now and I would like some further clarification on this...
So Im considering the exterior of the frame rail...
Its got surface rust on it...
would you use the 3 to 1 mix, or use the full strength conc. on this?
Then what do you do after its dry, sand it and paint it?

Help would be appreciated!

Thanks

Chicago
 
Also, would it eat away rubber parts, like body mounts?

Chicago
 
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