Rust and loathing in Los Angeles. (1 Viewer)

[nfranco]

So having convinced myself that I have an excess of time and money, ha ha, I bought a FJ60.

Been in California it's whole life so rust shouldn't be a problem right?
Rear drivers side.

So I spend a little time cleaning it out and this is what I'm left with at the moment.

I'm using the toolbox on a roll fix right now,

but am looking for advice for a semi permanent fix.
I know that cutting the area out and welding in a replacement is the proper thing to do but there are other areas that need immediate attention.

On the welding fix.
How do I go about finding a replacement piece to weld in?
Find someone parting one out and would I ask to have a section 6 inches bigger in all dimensions cut out to have some safety? Or is cutting mine first the best thing to do?

What kind of product do you recommend for rust stabilization and then how best to patch it?
I know that using a filler product will make the permanent repair a bit harder later but need to get this patched, you know those rough SoCal winters.
Something that will last a couple of years?
POR 15?
Rust Bullet?
Fiberglass?
Bondo/Evercoat?
Fantastic forum, really helped me know what to look for in my first FJ.
Thanks all,
nick

 

[alaska60]

heres what I did with my 60....same spot!
Rust fix face lift in 10 days!

starts on post 26

 

[alaska60]

Although my rust was a bit more serious then this....

 

[Pighead]

Up the insurance, push it off a cliff.

 

[nfranco]

Cool, thanks Alaska.
Nicely done.
Yours does make me feel better about what I'm facing, I'm a rust wuss.
Having lived in LA my whole life I've not had to worry about dealing with this before so I'm a little nervous about it.
It should be well worth it though, I haven't like a vehicle this much this fast in a long time.( I reserve the right to eat those words at a later date.)

 

[nfranco]

Up the insurance, push it off a cliff.

If I'm going to do that I'm going racing first!

 

[MutleyFJ62]

the other option is to get a piece of thin sheet metal, like .2mm thick and shape it to fit in behind, use some Sikaflex (google is your friend) to glue the sheet in behind and then a light smear of bondo and some touch up pain. GOLDEN! Saves the headache of removing windows and front screen to remove head lining for welding in replacement patches.

Hope that helps.....

 

[TallCanDan]

That Sika is good stuff, we use it while installing exterior doors, windows, thresholds, and sealing hollow metal products like door frames from the elements. Good for quite a number of years.

 

[Spike Strip]

You can just cut pieces of 14 g sheet to weld in the larger holes and fill in the small ones, or cut a large square out and patch that, but that compound angle will be a little hard to match, unless you've got the skills and tools.

But most important is to find the leaks in the roof that have allowed moisture to enter and cause the rust. The rain gutter is just sealed with goop. Over time it has hardened and cracked, and if there's ever been a roof rack on the truck, that made it happen faster.

You're going to have to remove all the old sealer in the rain gutters and apply new.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/358705-what-sealer-roof-seams.html <-- LINKY

Where in L.A. are you ? I think I've seen that truck ...

 

[nfranco]

Good stuff, thanks for all the ideas so far.
Anybody have a favorite rust reducer/sealer/converter chemical?
I see POR15, Rust Bullet and Loctite Extended Rust Treatment mentioned.
I'm in the San Fernando Valley, bought it from a guy in Bellflower.
I'll have a look at the gutters, makes sense that that ingress point, thanks for the link.
I've no sheet metal skills save for a sugar scoop I made in Jr. High shop class.
May use this as an excuse to pick up welding.

 

[Michael Hanson]

THe por-15 has worked well for us if top coated quickly,it has no tolerance for sun light. Mike

 

[Spike Strip]

Any of the rust converters will work fine. They're just Phosphoric acid compounds that turn the rust to black Iron phosphate. After that, cover with some Krylon or Rustoleum rattle can for a temp fix. You might even be able to find something close to that persimmon color ...

You can flow some of the converter into the roof space, but it won't go far cuz the roof is filled with a foam insulation, like the crap that is used for filling gaps in windows, door gaps. Best thing is to get the seams tight before we get rain again, if ever ...

I'm in Encino - I know I've seen your truck. Didn't you do a drive-by in Van Nuys ?




Good luck.

 

[rustybucket]

If you cannot find a donar 60, the RIGHT way to have this repaired is to take it to a hod rod shop that makes custom fenders by hand. They will tin bash or English wheel to exact dimensions your roof corner and weld it in and you wont even notice the difference.

 

[nfranco]

So I can jus pour the POR 15 in with no ill side effects? Can some of it end up in unwanted places?
I was going to park it with the passenger front side down, and pour it in the holes.
Spike Strip, it hasn't made it to Van Nuys yet, just got it on the 2nd.
I grew up in Van Nuys, driving by the TLC shop helped fuel my desire for one.

 

[hks3sgte]

Sweet FJ60... worth a rescue.

 

[rrv333]

My experience with POR 15, is that it doesn't "pour" very well. Really thick stuff.

 

[MBcruiser]

Nfranco, wondering what you ending up doing to fix your rust issues? I just bought a fj62 with some similar rust issues and I live in LA too. Not sure if I want to tackle the fix or look into having it done professionally.

 

[nfranco]

Haven't fixed it yet, I'm buying a roof section from a member here to cut a patch from and I've ordered some POR to treat the underlying rust.
Will update as it progresses.

 

[tat2matt]

Kevin at Wagon gear loaded his up with ATF it's an old holt rodders trick he said. https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/552977-rusty-wagon-rebuild.html