Running an 80 in 2WD - my findings (1 Viewer)

[LandCruiserPhil]

I have been running Aisin hubs on my 96 FZJ80 for the last 500 miles. Here is what I found:

After measuring the axle stub location, Aisin hubs, factory drive plate I come up with a need for a spacer of .27” to locate the axle stub in the exact factory location. The problem with that you cannot assemble the hub. With a .27” spacer the snap ring comes in contact with the hubs rotating face. With everything measured out you have .12” of clearance before contact so I did what other poster have done and used an additional snap ring (.10”). I tested with the hubs locked/unlocked, with and without the front driveline, and in low/high range locked. I disassembled the hub and saw no contact or anything out of order. Even though it’s not the “perfect” set up I believe it to be safe.

Driving on and at highway speeds you only notice a lighter feel to the steering. Off road its fun to slide and push the ass end around. Around town is where I noticed the difference. Light feel in steering and a lot of lift in the front end. I think the lift in the front end is probably just my 80. The front springs are soft and the shocks I run have 250# nitrogen in them. At first I liked it feeling, hard starts would result in 3 – 4 “ of lift in the front end kinda like a race truck and it looked cool. But it got old real quick. I did not like the lifting when going around and accelerating out of corners.

A lot of time was $pent to make it ride and handle good as a lifted fulltime 4wd and I’m not going to be the one to fawk that up so I’m selling my Aisin hubs. The saving in fuel in my case is not worth it.

Aisin hubs for sale
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=20841

Phil

 

[cruiserman]

What was the fuel savings?

 

[ginericLC]

I found similar findings with the handling with my 91 with Js. I gained no mileage. I'm leaving my hubs on so if I would happen to break something I can drive home easily by removing the front driveshaft.

 

[Bradass80]

I have to agree with Phil i really don't like the way my truck handles when in 2wd, although i have left my hubs on because they saved my butt one day wheeling when the front locker wouldn't disengage and i was coming down a really steep loose hill climb and need to have steering, unlocking one side made it so i could manuver my way down safely, also the wear and tear on the center diff lock from driving around town with it engaged all the time concerns me, i'll probably leave them on and locked so i can utilize them when needed, Brad.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

What was the fuel savings?

I didn’t get to test mileage ...to much playing with skinny pedal made it pointless.

I thought about keeping the hubs for the good points mentioned. But after 20 years on birfs I have yet to break one (knock on wood and all that good luck stuff) and if you break one you need to remove the driveline also so what’s 2 move drive plates. Plus my bling wheels have bolt on centers caps covering the hub.

Phil

 

[RavenTai]

Could the part that the stub shaft strikes be relieved for clearance?

 

[MoJ]

Phil -

What was your total cost to modify it into 2WD?

 

[mabrodis]

I agree with your findings Phil, the steering is light, and IMO much more twitchy, easier to grab ruts, etc. To me it feels like driving with the caster way off, but when you engage the front again it drives good again. I have been driving mine in 2wd off and on for 2 years, currently it's in 2wd, driveshafts are in, just the hubs unlocked, I've been too lazy to lock them again. Plus I'm kinda curious about the mpg when it's driven 'normal' (I like you have too much fun with it and that kills any mpg savings). The last tank I got 15.7mpg, which was very good, better than I normally do, so I think I'll keep my 2wd stuff for the moment. However, if anyone is borrowing my truck I would definetly lock it up normal, since the 2wd experience would not be good for some not used to driving a lifted twitchy vehicle IMO.

As for price MoJ, I paid $50 for a set of used Aisin hubs, and since that's all that's needed, total cost is whatever the hubs cost you.

Edit: Ha, I forgot about the CDL switch.

 

[clownmidget]

MoJ,
Just a pair of the lockout hubs and a cdl is all that's required other than your time to install both and remove your front drive shaft. Hubs go for around $50 and the cdl is about that much too.

Mike R.

 

[sjpitts]

I didn’t get to test mileage ...to much playing with skinny pedal made it pointless.

I thought about keeping the hubs for the good points mentioned. But after 20 years on birfs I have yet to break one (knock on wood and all that good luck stuff) and if you break one you need to remove the driveline also so what’s 2 move drive plates. Plus my bling wheels have bolt on centers caps covering the hub.

Phil

Phil

This is an old thread, but didn't you break a birf about ten minutes after your wrote this?

Jared

 

[Gold Finger]

Phil,
Is it likely that the transfer box will take a lot of strain using it in 2 wheel drive when it has not been built to run that way? Is there more slop in taking up drive or when coming of the gas, or does the auto box mask this?

 

[Tools R Us]

Phil

This is an old thread, but didn't you break a birf about ten minutes after your wrote this?

Jared

It was a month or so later, but yes, he was reminded of that detail several times as we were disassembling his junk on the trail!

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

It was a month or so later, but yes, he was reminded of that detail several times as we were disassembling his junk on the trail!

Ya but if I still had hubs I would been the one removing the drive line

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Phil,
Is it likely that the transfer box will take a lot of strain using it in 2 wheel drive when it has not been built to run that way? Is there more slop in taking up drive or when coming of the gas, or does the auto box mask this?

Didn’t really notice it

One bad thing I think the hubs caused was one leaking inner axle seal...after 100k of the seal riding in the same place on the axle you develop a small grove where the seal lip rides and with the hubs the axle has the ability to walk back and forth (.17 with an extra snap ring) and I believe that F-up the axle seal it was new 20k ago. If I were to run hubs again I would have a new snap ring grove cut in the stub axle cut back .27 to bring the birf tight against the spindle bushing like it was designed and the hubs would still fit.

 

[kenton]

Thanks Phil for pointing this thread out to me. Unlike many of the other experiences described on this thread, mine (with a stock vehicle) were more positive with 2WD, wrt gas mileage (+10%), steering (nice and responsive, not twitchy, whereas stock is a little 'draggy'). However no ABS on highway bothers me alot.
Phil, can you expand on your last observation? You are saying that you think going for 500 miles with hubs may have done damage to the seal? Isn't there someone whose gone 50k miles on this board? What was wrong with the axle seal? Could it have been messed up by the breakage? Is there any play in the stock setup?

Cutting a new snapring groove would require removing the stub axle, right? I'm not looking forward to that. I'm thinking maybe a .270 shim could be made to fit behind the snap ring?
Kenton

 

[RavenTai]

Cutting a new snapring groove would require removing the stub axle, right? I'm not looking forward to that. I'm thinking maybe a .270 shim could be made to fit behind the snap ring?
Kenton

I come up with a need for a spacer of .27” to locate the axle stub in the exact factory location. The problem with that you cannot assemble the hub. With a .27” spacer the snap ring comes in contact with the hubs rotating face.

I am still wondering:

Could the part that the stub shaft strikes be relieved for clearance?

if possible that woudl be a lot easier

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I am still wondering:



if possible that woudl be a lot easier

Raven its not the axle that comes in contact with the hub its the snap ring

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Phil, can you expand on your last observation? You are saying that you think going for 500 miles with hubs may have done damage to the seal? Isn't there someone whose gone 50k miles on this board? What was wrong with the axle seal? Could it have been messed up by the breakage? Is there any play in the stock setup?

Cutting a new snapring groove would require removing the stub axle, right? I'm not looking forward to that. I'm thinking maybe a .270 shim could be made to fit behind the snap ring?
Kenton

In MY case I was also driving with the front drive line on and the hubs unlocked some of the time. So the axles were turning and I think the movement in the axle the seal was going in and out of the grove on the axle. The seal was right and it was not on the side that broke(POS). My theory is based on the seal was 20k old and the fuild was checked 5k ago and it was pure honey. Its the best reason I could come up with besides my 80 be a POS.

There is no play in the stock set-up- the birf is snug to the spindle.

Cutting a new grove for the snap ring would require removing the axle..but its only time

You cant use a (.27) shim behind the snap ring...the snap ring will come in contact with the hub face.

 

[RavenTai]

Raven its not the axle that comes in contact with the hub its the snap ring

Same question then can the part the snap ring contacts be worked to provide clearance?

It would be easier and cheaper (if possible) to work the hubs the fit the birf before hand instead of having the truck down wile removing machining and reinstalling the birf's

One other thing I thought about was shimming the whole hub, making a .27 shim the shape of the gasket and getting longer studs but I do not think the studs would survive the extra leverage

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Same question then can the part the snap ring contacts be worked to provide clearance?

It would be easier and cheaper (if possible) to work the hubs the fit the birf before hand instead of having the truck down wile removing machining and reinstalling the birf's

It is the plastic dial of the hub that needs the work. Not enough meat to work with.

One other thing I thought about was shimming the whole hub, making a .27 shim the shape of the gasket and getting longer studs but I do not think the studs would survive the extra leverage

Do you really think it work be less work to machine a shim the shape of the gasket, replacing the studs, and pull and replace the index pins verses removing the birf?

Thanks for the suggestions but I still think the right way is to cut a new groove for the snap ring.