just pulled my injectors today and replaced them with the Bosch ones. Engine is running very rough but not throwing any codes. Before I pull the $&@ plenum off again I was hoping to see if anyone has any ideas here....
Rough Running After Injector Replacement (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Iceaxe
- Start date
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It could be a bad injector, or air leak, are all of your vacuum lines in great shape, did you properly bleed the fuel system
ppc
M Go Blue
A banjo bolt normally needs to have a crush washer on both sides of the fitting to seal it and to position the feed hole in the proper position. If you are missing either washer or there was an old washer that was still stuck on, the feed hole could be partially blocked. If you disconnected the battery for the repair the ECM needs to relearn. Drive it on a few short trips and see what happens.
Were the Bosch injectors reconditioned units (Cleaned, new seals, flow tested and Ohm'ed)?
The problem with trouble shooting injectors (on vehicle) with an 80 series is they are almost impossible to access without pulling the manifold. IF you have a stethoscope you might be able to get it on each injector and verify it is 'firing', which would eliminate the possibility that one of the wires or connectors is bad, but unless you (someone) Ohm'ed them before installing...we don't know if all the injectors are 'good'.
We will assume all injectors are fitted well in the intake and fuel rail bores and not leaking.
If you disconnected your battery (you should have) then your idle might be rough for a few start/stop cycles as the ECU 're-learns', but it shouldn't take too long.
Make sure you have no vacuum leaks.
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Hate trying to reach that fuel filter and banjo bolt, but it does need both crush washers (new) and be certain an old one is not stuck on the fitting or filter. Hope it proves to be something simple.
Like said if you disconnected the battery this could be your issue. If the banjo is not leaking I don't think that is your problem. Make sure each plug in connector alternate colors, 5 and 6 is easy to back wards. After few starts and drives if it is still misfiring then make sure each injector is firing with a stethoscope, also injectors should rotate easily when put in between manifold and rail . Check all vacummn lines are hooked up too
I assume you took the air filter out.
Most of the time on these old cars, it tends to crack after messaging around with it.
Are there any codes?
Most of the time on these old cars, it tends to crack after messaging around with it.
Are there any codes?
- Thread starter
- #12
Ok, took the whole thing apart again and pulled the injectors out and reseated them with gas on the o-rings. They all seated well with no leaks. Discovered the banjo was leaking and not oriented correctly- fixed that. Put the whole thing back together, and it cranked up smoothly. Then drove it and when under stress (i.e. going uphill), it throws a cylinder 5 misfire code. Too tired today to figure out what is going on with that but will recheck all the vac lines tomorrow... uuuuugh.
Here are the injectors I installed
Fuel Injector Upgrade Kit 4 Hole Bosch Modern type For 93-97 [23209-74080-Upgrade] - $199.00 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts
Here are the injectors I installed
Fuel Injector Upgrade Kit 4 Hole Bosch Modern type For 93-97 [23209-74080-Upgrade] - $199.00 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts
I know this is a pain in the ass, but if it were me I would move the number 5 injector to another port and see if the code follows it. If it does not, that would eliminate the injector itself being the problem.
I wish I had more to offer.
I wish I had more to offer.
You are your rig's nemisis.
Bummer. A lot of work....I know.
Since you have adapter harnesses....you'll want to check and see that you have a good connection (and voltage) on cylinder #5.
A misfire is either spark or fuel, you'll have to determine which. If you pull it all down again I'd Ohm the injectors myself (I know they were supposed to be correct from the seller, but it won't hurt to check).
If you have a timing light, you can hook that to your # 5 plug wire to confirm spark there. We will assume your spark plugs are known to be in good shape? If/when you are confident you have spark to that cylinder...then turn your attention to the injector there or the wiring to it.
I don't like to 'move' an injector to another spot to see if the problem follows it...when a simple test will usually save you the trouble. Not much fun to have button it all up again, just to see if a component fails in that spot too...when a multimeter will tell you what you need to know.
- Thread starter
- #16
^ yeah, I know... ok, took a looong nap, woke up, cranked it up, and it purred. I had to drive it for about five miles and hammer it up a very steep hill before it finally threw the #5 code. Then s*** it down, waited, then took it out on the hwy. it did great. I've no earthly idea what was going on except maybe the computer needed to learn the new parameters? Sheesh I don't know....
- Thread starter
- #17
Just to close out this thread, here's what I learned from this experience:
- 'Mud members are awesome. Thanks guys.
- The Bosch injectors not only work, but they do seem to give the engine more "umph". Yes, they are loud, but I can't really hear them in the cabin.
- I haven't thrown a code since that second day / second tear down. No idea what was going on, but everything is ok now.
- Oddly, I've noticed heat management has actually improved. Running consistently 10 degrees cooler... (I've been picking at my overheating issues since installing my SC a year or so ago...).
- Thread starter
- #18
Well, spoke too soon. It was doing great and then did a 15 min pedal to the floor up a mountain pass, and it's throwing that same code again. Ugh.
Ok flintknapper, going to do what you've kindly suggested.
Sigh.
Ok flintknapper, going to do what you've kindly suggested.
Sigh.
Might be a good idea. Given the information you've provided us to date, I can't imagine anything 'fixing itself', so a little more time and effort on your part will probably pay off in finding the fix and having a reliable vehicle again (well worth it).
- Thread starter
- #20
^ agree. Here's what initial results are:
- With a stethoscope, confirmed that the 5th injector is clicking away just like all the others.
- Using the timing light, confirmed that power is at least going to the injector...
- I did have to revise my engine wiring harness because I stretched it across the engine during the SC install, per Toyota's instructions. Unfortunately, that action melted my wires, and I had to connect everything in there. It will be "interesting" to figure out which of these wires go to the cylinder 5 injector.
- I was a bit confused about the banjo bolt orientation, and I did recently replace the fuel filter... If I failed to tighten those bolts in the proper orientation, I wonder (???) if this could also be an issue. The question there is why the same injector throwing the same code each and every time?
- Re: vacuum lines, I made sure there was no leak, however I don't have a pressure gauge to check it. But again, the question there is why the same injector throwing the same code each and every time?
