ROTM- klinetime574 (1 Viewer)

[gothodgie]

SO you can install the locker from the back of the diff without messing with pinion bearing pre-load/etc.??? Sounds easier than I expected. Any special tools or pullers needed?

patience, rubber gloves, lots of bearing grease, and put the truck up high enough you can sit up under it if you can. The only special tool i use is a smaller screwdriver with last inch of it bent at about a 70 degree angle. The passenger side C clip is the fun part.

 

[klinetime574]

One more locker question for ya Kline. When you took off the C-clips, did you have to remove the drum brake or were you able to get it off without much disassembly?

One of my drums was getting irritating so I pulled off the big cover thing. I don't even know what to call it. If you get the truck high enough you can sit under it and have both tires on for testing, etc.

SO you can install the locker from the back of the diff without messing with pinion bearing pre-load/etc.??? Sounds easier than I expected. Any special tools or pullers needed?

Yeah you can. Re-use thrust washers from your old couplers. You have to have some wire to bend into a "U" shape so you can get it all together. Easy though.

patience, rubber gloves, lots of bearing grease, and put the truck up high enough you can sit up under it if you can. The only special tool i use is a smaller screwdriver with last inch of it bent at about a 70 degree angle. The passenger side C clip is the fun part.

Passenger C-Clip is the best part

Really easy to install, that was my first one ever, and first time to ever see a differential even. Everyone should have a locker in the rear.

I made it up some crazy stuff at BMRA.

I bent a U-bolt pretty good. I need to replace it. I didn't trim the unused threads. I should have, oh well... learning process

 

[Miloslavich]

^ Nice!!


I want a locker!!

 

[shotgun12321]

SO you can install the locker from the back of the diff without messing with pinion bearing pre-load/etc.??? Sounds easier than I expected. Any special tools or pullers needed?

From my Aussie instructions (again, probably the same as lock-rite) the tools you need for install are just basic wrenches/sockets/screwdrivers/etc but they say c-clip pliers help a lot and you need more gear oil doh

 

[shotgun12321]

What I meant was, was it possible to slide the axles in without removing anything (i.e. drums) to get the c clips out?

I'm just asking because I've seen it done both ways and wasn't sure if 60's were simple or not when it comes to removing axles.

 

[klinetime574]

What I meant was, was it possible to slide the axles in without removing anything (i.e. drums) to get the c clips out?

I'm just asking because I've seen it done both ways and wasn't sure if 60's were simple or not when it comes to removing axles.

It was possible to slide the c-clips out without removing anything.

 

[shotgun12321]

Alright thanks.

 

[klinetime574]

Here are some photo's from the Jamboree:

Our group (TLCC-H):

My 60 and two 80's on the trail

Lookin' pretty

My Dad has some better photos but I have to get him to email them to me.

I did the RTI ramp and got outscored by a stock FJ40. The tan FJ40 beat both the stock 40 and I. I don't know how accurate the scoring was but it was all relative so I am pleased with how my 60 did. I scored a 733.6, the tan 40 scored an 855.6

I'll post the other pictures when I get them

Enjoy!

 

[Miloslavich]

Nice shots Kline

how do you like your locker's driveability on pavement?

 

[AKcruiserfreak]

Kline, I was just curious now that you have some time driving with your HIDs, if you still think it's a worthwhile mod? Did you upgrade your wiring harness? I noticed a few people with HID's have due to the initial high current draw. Thanks man. Love the rig.

TK

 

[klinetime574]

Nice shots Kline

how do you like your locker's driveability on pavement?

The locker on pavement is great, just do not coast through a corner in gear, you'll get a nice surprise. I usually just take it out of gear and coast around corners. No issues.

Kline, I was just curious now that you have some time driving with your HIDs, if you still think it's a worthwhile mod? Did you upgrade your wiring harness? I noticed a few people with HID's have due to the initial high current draw. Thanks man. Love the rig.

TK

It is definitely worthwhile, I can see so well at night. No voltage drop, and only $50. Worth it, worth it, worth it. Did I mention it's worth it?

Stock harness. High beam indicator doesn't work, but you can tell when the high beams are on. I'm not too good with electrics, I'll get it fixed at some point.

Thanks dudes!

 

[YupYup]

Kline,

What OME setup did you go with? I've reread the thread many times, but didn't see specs. Or it could just be me. My eyes tend to glaze over as I spend countless nighttime hours surfing this forum.

Thanks. And great looking truck by the way. It looks damn near perfect, really.

 

[klinetime574]

Kline,

What OME setup did you go with? I've reread the thread many times, but didn't see specs. Or it could just be me. My eyes tend to glaze over as I spend countless nighttime hours surfing this forum.

Thanks. And great looking truck by the way. It looks damn near perfect, really.

OME Medium purchased from Man-a-Fre.

Thanks man!

 

[hambone008]

Man thats awesome. Well done you and you're old man are some quality guys. Hope my daughters and I travel the same path.

 

[klinetime574]

Update:

More photos from the Jamboree. Realized I never posted them haha.

And I got some SS Brake Lines from Man-a-Fre

Moved brake line photos to post #117

 

[NQCruiser]

Klinetime574, looking sweet man, love those trail photos. With your SS brake lines, did you get extended oned for your lift, or just stick with the standard length? I'm thinking about upgrading mine and getting them about 2-3inches longer than standard.

I havent flexed my springs up much yet to seeif it is really required, but I seem to remember the rear one looking a bit tight when I had the rear up on the forklift when fitting the springs...

 

[klinetime574]

These Man-a-Fre lines are 4 inches longer than stock for the front and rear axles. The rear definitely needs it. It was a little tight with the flex.

Thanks for the props!

 

[klinetime574]

Update

Hey guys!

Got my U-bolt replaced that was bent, used my buddies angle grinder, so awesome haha. Took 30 minutes.

Next up: Getting my steering box rebuilt on Friday by a shop nearby. Had to get the thing off. First time I have ever messed with it. Pretty straight forward, didn't even have to take the tire off.

1. Drain the fluid, I used the line that goes to the "cooler" from the reservoir, unhooked at the cooler end.
2. Unscrew the two fittings on the gearbox.
3. Remove the bolt on the steering linkage and pull off the linkage from the gearbox.
4. Remove the TRE cotter pin, and castle nut.
5. Bang on the TRE/ Pitman arm with a TRE fork, and a 5lb hammer until they separate.
6. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the gearbox to the frame.
7. Struggle to get the gearbox to the ground.
8. Celebrate!

I put the bolts back through the frame so I don't lose them.

Its amazing how clean everything is under all that grease.

Well that was a post!

 

[klinetime574]

Got the steering box rebuilt. The shop did awesome work. And they finished in an hour and a half!

I cleaned up the frame and etc. as much as I could with WD40 and shop towels. Had to do this repair at school in my parking garage

I'll attack it over Spring Break and clean it better now that I don't have to worry about it leaking anymore.

Commence photo dump!

It makes everything else look so nasty haha.

It feels a lot better! I'll give another report after I have driven it further.

Definitely needed it, my poor DS spring is thankful it wont be covered in ATF anymore

 

[klinetime574]

Just took a short drive.

All I can say is WOW!

If you are turning left and right and left to go straight like I was, go get your steering box rebuilt, you will be amazed how well your 60 can drive!

I can let go of the wheel and it just stays put, and the slop in the steering is much tighter.

Don't over-tighten the adjustment screw, the guy who rebuilt mine said it had never been touched. Which he said was a good thing. He said over-adjustment can lead to more problems.

I need to replace the TRE on the pitman arm end or would filling it grease do the trick? It kinda wiggles.