Well I sure did miss the party- HAPPY BIRTHDAY ALEX!!
ROTM- klinetime574
- Thread starter klinetime574
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BDSeff1fitty
1987 Toyota 4Runner
- Thread starter
- #243
Thanks
That's a good looking 40!
Ain't it? Some weird guy spent his college years restoring it.... Sounds familiar
BDSeff1fitty
1987 Toyota 4Runner
Ain't it? Some weird guy spent his college years restoring it.... Sounds familiar
I'll probably be pulling the 2F over thanksgiving if you'll be in town.
- Thread starter
- #245
I've got some work to do.
Ordered some stuff recently.
- Blue Sea Fuse Block PN5025
- Fluid transfer pump (That thing is awesome. Thanks dbleon!)
- Redline MT-90
- JimC idler and plug kit
- Belts for the 2F (Thanks beno!)
- Fan clutch oil (Thanks beno!)
All of this is to prep for rebuilding and re-installing my factory carburetor, and some maintenance. Hopefully have this done soon (for sure the belts and pulley).
I put the Redline MT-90 in my transmission. It definitely helped a lot, but I'm afraid the transmission is screwed up. Shifts are still notchy. I need someone to properly diagnose what may be wrong with it. I know of a shop in Houston that a mechanic recommended "Armando's Transmissions" IIRC. Garrett I may just take yours if it feels better than mine. I'm tired these transmission problems.
Fuse block is to un-crowd my battery, idler because I don't like the SOR milled one that I have on there now, plug kit for factory air intake and get rid of my home-fab plugs, M14x1.5 oil drain plugs with the heads lopped off
I needed the vinyl plugs so I figured why not get them all, it was cheap. Plus I just have broken BVSVs in the thermostat housing.
And the last picture is of my factory carburetor. It is a mess. I'm armed with Berryman Chem-Dip, Pinhead YouTube videos, rebuild kit, 2F engine and emissions manual. Wish me luck on this when I attempt it!
I need to do homework now
Ordered some stuff recently.
- Blue Sea Fuse Block PN5025
- Fluid transfer pump (That thing is awesome. Thanks dbleon!)
- Redline MT-90
- JimC idler and plug kit
- Belts for the 2F (Thanks beno!)
- Fan clutch oil (Thanks beno!)
All of this is to prep for rebuilding and re-installing my factory carburetor, and some maintenance. Hopefully have this done soon (for sure the belts and pulley).
I put the Redline MT-90 in my transmission. It definitely helped a lot, but I'm afraid the transmission is screwed up. Shifts are still notchy. I need someone to properly diagnose what may be wrong with it. I know of a shop in Houston that a mechanic recommended "Armando's Transmissions" IIRC. Garrett I may just take yours if it feels better than mine. I'm tired these transmission problems.
Fuse block is to un-crowd my battery, idler because I don't like the SOR milled one that I have on there now, plug kit for factory air intake and get rid of my home-fab plugs, M14x1.5 oil drain plugs with the heads lopped off
I needed the vinyl plugs so I figured why not get them all, it was cheap. Plus I just have broken BVSVs in the thermostat housing.And the last picture is of my factory carburetor. It is a mess. I'm armed with Berryman Chem-Dip, Pinhead YouTube videos, rebuild kit, 2F engine and emissions manual. Wish me luck on this when I attempt it!
I need to do homework now
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So...sorry about this, but I got some great ideas from this thread and in order to save my marriage I'm going to need to bill you for them...
Sick rig and thanks for sharing details on all your mods and repairs... Really helpful to your fellow 'Mudders
Sick rig and thanks for sharing details on all your mods and repairs... Really helpful to your fellow 'Mudders
- Thread starter
- #247
Thanks daveIT, that is what we are all here for 
Oh and I forgot to mention, two little containers of that fan clutch oil is the appropriate amount to drain and refill the factory fan clutch. I have a VatoZone unit on there now. Works sometimes, but it's ugly. Just the physical appearance is deterring enough for me haha
Oh and I forgot to mention, two little containers of that fan clutch oil is the appropriate amount to drain and refill the factory fan clutch. I have a VatoZone unit on there now. Works sometimes, but it's ugly. Just the physical appearance is deterring enough for me haha
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Get after it K, Man, I had that carb rebuild kit... I would have.. well you know.. You'll like the Blue Sea aux. fuse block...
J
J
- Thread starter
- #249
That carb rebuild kit is circa 2005-06. It was in the box with factory carb since I got the motor running with the Weber after rebuild. No worries
I need to get wire and a breaker/fuse for the fuse block. Would y'all recommend a breaker or a big fuse? Links to good ones? I have a hardware shop that can get wire and ends. And as far as wiring it. Positive to positive, but I really would prefer to ground the fuse block to the frame or something (not the battery). Is that okay to do?
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I grounded my fuse block and then ground each circuit as well.. I used a breaker on mine. Got if off Amazon. works as it should, 100 or 150 amp IIRC..
I went with the breaker so I could trip it if I don't run Marley for awhile or leave her unattended for sometime.. I have 4 always HOT outlets on that block...
J
I went with the breaker so I could trip it if I don't run Marley for awhile or leave her unattended for sometime.. I have 4 always HOT outlets on that block...
J
BDSeff1fitty
1987 Toyota 4Runner
I'll let you know next time i'm in town and you can test drive it if you want and see.
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I think this is the one I have..
http://www.amazon.com/Absolute-CIB1...93654&sr=1-5&keywords=100+amp+circuit+breaker
J
http://www.amazon.com/Absolute-CIB1...93654&sr=1-5&keywords=100+amp+circuit+breaker
J
Looking forward to this mod...I plan to install my ham radio & some extra lights soon, so this should help!
Fuses:
Look at total load (AMPERES) that will actually be run in your particular setup..... (not the max than CAN be run with the fuse panel). That way you can engineer your fuse/breaker according to the actual loads handled by the panel.
You might way overshoot on fuses by picking one that is suited to the max possible panel load.
Hope that makes sense.... Im sure you already know this, but just throwing it out.
That fuse panel lookls N I C E !!
Look at total load (AMPERES) that will actually be run in your particular setup..... (not the max than CAN be run with the fuse panel). That way you can engineer your fuse/breaker according to the actual loads handled by the panel.
You might way overshoot on fuses by picking one that is suited to the max possible panel load.
Hope that makes sense.... Im sure you already know this, but just throwing it out.
That fuse panel lookls N I C E !!
- Thread starter
- #256
Thanks for the words. I actually don't know that much about electrical stuff. It's scary. Draining oil can't kill you but electricity can haha
And this thing is really high quality. Can't wait to get it in. J had a spare breaker, so were squared away. Just need time to install it. I'm not gonna be running that much on it. So it should be okay with 100 Amp breaker. I'll research my stuff though cause I do have a small power inverter in the dash.
You want to undercut your total draw (ie. with all your high draw electrics all running at the same time, at full power/amperage).
Do a little research on this Kline.. before you commit to that extra breaker someone had laying around. Not saying it wont work, but might be improper sized for YOUR setup.
Someone smarter than me will chime in.. im sure.
Cheers, night.
Do a little research on this Kline.. before you commit to that extra breaker someone had laying around. Not saying it wont work, but might be improper sized for YOUR setup.
Someone smarter than me will chime in.. im sure.
Cheers, night.
- Thread starter
- #258
All I have running off the battery right now is my HID headlights (35W), my power inverter (I think it says 350W peak on it), and my subwoofer amp power wire (which I probably won't run through the fuse block, it is fused already)
What do you mean when you say "undercut your total draw?" Say I draw 80 amps, a 100 amp breaker would be okay?
i = w / v
350 / 12 = 29.167 amp
35 / 12 = 2.917 amp
So thats a total of 32.534 amps
In other news my Landcruiser decided to blow a coolant hose. Right off the water pump. Largest one.
Photos show where it blew, and the spray all over the engine bay. It actually shut off the engine. Ignition coil got wet (is that normal?)
Photo of a spare WP I have so we can visualize this together.
Why the heck would that blow? Freak accident?
Looks like I will be installing those BVSV plugs sooner than I thought I would
What do you mean when you say "undercut your total draw?" Say I draw 80 amps, a 100 amp breaker would be okay?
i = w / v
350 / 12 = 29.167 amp
35 / 12 = 2.917 amp
So thats a total of 32.534 amps
In other news my Landcruiser decided to blow a coolant hose. Right off the water pump. Largest one.
Photos show where it blew, and the spray all over the engine bay. It actually shut off the engine. Ignition coil got wet (is that normal?)
Photo of a spare WP I have so we can visualize this together.
Why the heck would that blow? Freak accident?
Looks like I will be installing those BVSV plugs sooner than I thought I would
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- Thread starter
- #259
I was wrong. It's the smaller hose. I was stressed last night. Looking at the picture now it's totally obvious haha
Now I get to figure out how in the heck to get it off
Now I get to figure out how in the heck to get it off
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Hey do you happen to have the parts numbers off those belts? If so, could you post them?