I run the rotella t6 in every thing I own. Walmart sells it in a 5w-40 for a decent enough price.
Rotella 15W40 is Great! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter dafun1
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Yup. Just higher detergents.
When I got my LX450 last year I did the HG and was shocked to see all the brown and dark gold oil build up in the head and timing chain. I had planed to use a good diesel oil anyway so run Rotella 15-40. I was shocked to see how black the oil was that I drained out 1000kms after I got it on the road. I then again had very black oil at 5000kms oil change. This last change I drained out much cleaner oil at 5000kms, I could see a nice brown gold tinge to it. So 11000kms total on my truck this year running Rotrlla and I'm very impressed so far, I expect but the next oil change the oil will be even cleaner.
How's the inside of engine look now? I just put in some Rotella (TSC had it for $11/g.. had to buy 5 gallons for my lc / 6.7) and I hope it scrubbs the inside down pretty well, as my engine has quite a bit of oil buildup. I plan on seafoaming the last 100 miles before an oil change every time until it looks better..
We use Rotella "T" in our oil well pumping units. Change them out every month which is around 725 hours of run time. I have one unit that has been running without an overhaul for over 7 years. CNG is clean fuel but offers no lubrication so the engine oil has to do all the work. Since it comes in 55 gallon drums the Rotella finds its way into all my personal engines. It will clean a lot of "quaker cake" out of an old engine run on conventional oils for gas engines. There is a lot of detergent in diesel oils but they also have a lot of light metals in the mix which keep the bearings and wear parts lubricated/coated. 15W40 in summer and 10W30 in winter. I do recommend a block heater when doing a cold start with any oil when the temps get into the teens or below.
I would be interested in knowing what sort of oils the northern guys are using in their trans and diffs when it gets cold? I actually run a straight 30w nondetergent oil (what they used in many old hydraulic systems) in manual transmissions in the winter. Usually only for a couple of months then I drain it out and refill with a 75-90 synthetic. The lighter oil drains easily and I always think it is taking a lot of dirt and grime with it when it goes.
I would be interested in knowing what sort of oils the northern guys are using in their trans and diffs when it gets cold? I actually run a straight 30w nondetergent oil (what they used in many old hydraulic systems) in manual transmissions in the winter. Usually only for a couple of months then I drain it out and refill with a 75-90 synthetic. The lighter oil drains easily and I always think it is taking a lot of dirt and grime with it when it goes.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
I run the non synthetic.
So I understand the appeal of the heavier oil, or so I think... But if heavier oil isn't recommended from the factory, what's the potential downside to running it?
Ocho77
SILVER Star
More than you've ever wanted to know about motor oil...pretty interesting.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
Damnit, now you've got me hooked.. Onto Chapter 2
Ocho77
SILVER Star
I know...same thing happened to me. I found the link somewhere on this forum and decided to scan it...I ended up reading the entire thing.
So I skimmed through The 100's and what I gathered from his post is that....
1. The guy must be filthy rich because he owns some serious exotics
A. Lamborghini Murcielago
B. Ferrari Enzo
C. Ford Expedition
D. Ferrari 575 Maranello
E. Maybach 57
2. There really is no way to prevent wear on start up because oil isn't going to be too thick with current technology and weights
3. The OEMs work to figure out what oil and weight (seems like a misnomer given his article) will work best for the longevity of the motors.
So, I got the appeal that while synthetic can offer some advantages, there are still tradeoffs; however, it offers the best startup protection. He still mentions he runs Dino oil in his Expedition.
After reading that, I'm confused as to how a 15w40 would be beneficial to these guys? I've read on here that as long as these 80 motors have some sort of lubricant in there, it'll run.
Thoughts?
-rockstate
1. The guy must be filthy rich because he owns some serious exotics
A. Lamborghini Murcielago
B. Ferrari Enzo
C. Ford Expedition
D. Ferrari 575 Maranello
E. Maybach 57
2. There really is no way to prevent wear on start up because oil isn't going to be too thick with current technology and weights
3. The OEMs work to figure out what oil and weight (seems like a misnomer given his article) will work best for the longevity of the motors.
So, I got the appeal that while synthetic can offer some advantages, there are still tradeoffs; however, it offers the best startup protection. He still mentions he runs Dino oil in his Expedition.
After reading that, I'm confused as to how a 15w40 would be beneficial to these guys? I've read on here that as long as these 80 motors have some sort of lubricant in there, it'll run.
Thoughts?
-rockstate
I get much lower oil consumption with 15W40 compared to 5W30. I believe I read somewhere that 15W40 was spec for these trucks outside of the US.
Most auto manufactures went to thinner oils to improve milage. Supposedly they also run tighter tolerances on bearings and such.
I haven't bothered to look to see what a toyota motor from the 70's and a motor from the 90's bearing tolerances are listed as. I know GM LS motors are tighter.
I haven't bothered to look to see what a toyota motor from the 70's and a motor from the 90's bearing tolerances are listed as. I know GM LS motors are tighter.
Ocho77
SILVER Star
When I switched from 5W30 to 15W40, my oil pressure, at idle, went up 15psi. I'm not smart enough to know why...but that was good enough for me.
Now see that's good information...
In combo with what grim said, I can see why. We've been making that big push for fuel economy here.
Wonder if anybody can confirm that?
Also, grim, I talked with you a few times about your 80 when you had it for sale lat summer. Glad to see you kept it around
Uhh no you probably talked with Dustin (think he was dfudge here) who I bought it from in March. He bought it from another member the year before. I was looking at it last summer and even took it for a test drive but life got in the way of finances and put it off. It had the EGR problem and Dustin got up against the clock on needing to renew his tag so he pulled it off the market for a few months.
See that's the thing, it takes HP to push more oil pressure. Your milage probably went down. Oil viscosity has to do with the molecular size of the oil
There is a point where the oil is so thick that the oil actually breaks down faster being pushed though tighter bearing tolerances. The oils molecules actually shear being jammed though a clearances that is smaller then their size. So while you perceive the higher oil pressure as good....it may not be.
