Oh makes sense. That name is sounding familiar. I remember that now.
Sweet rig you got from him.
Rotella 15W40 is Great!
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Sweet rig you got from him.
Maybe not when new but these rigs are 17+ years old so I think it's safe to say the tolerances aren't what they used to be and 15-40 is probably perfect now.
I'm new here but not to wheeling (former Disco guy... I know, I know...) and have been running 15w40 Rotella in all my rigs forever. Nothing but good things for my engines. I'm a former Amsoil purist and that gets expensive, this stuff does the job and is much easier on the wallet.
I heard the same from nha head plus it has minerals additives that were removed from newer oils.
crowley have you found anything yet that will slow down a rear main seal leak? I think I may have diagnosed one myself and would like to slow it down before attacking it.
thanks
J
Here's something I saved that was posted on this site when I was looking for what oil to look for when I went for my first fresh change since the PO. I don't remember the exact post but the poster essentially said that this is what Toyota recommends anywhere except the United States, I also remember a post from Tools R Us saying the coldest temp to run the 15w-40 is about 15F which also is pretty close to this diagram.
This is for the 1FZFE engine in the 'Gasoline Engine' portion at the top.
Hope this helps.
This is for the 1FZFE engine in the 'Gasoline Engine' portion at the top.
Hope this helps.
Well 2 1/2 yrs later.... I never had a rear main leak. They are very uncommon and usually misdiagnosed. Only sure way to tell is take off the inspection cover under the bell housing and take a small inspection mirror to look inside. You can see the rear main. if its dry in there its not your rear main. My leak was the upper arch seal. That was one of the first projects I did to my cruiser. As for the rotella, I am still using it. Seems to be a good oil. My blackstone oil analysis shows the oil is still in great shape after 3k miles. I also use the same oil in my 7.3 powerstroke so it's nice having the same oil when adding between changes.
There is a plastic plug at the back if your oil pan you can pop off to have a look at the flywheel. I'd bet your pan arch is leaking and not the rear main.
Oil. If the rear main is leaking it should streak down the backside of the flywheel. A little puddled at the bottom but a clean and dry flywheel and torque converter says pan arch. My 96 has 260k miles and doesn't leak a drop from the rear main. It doesn't use any measurable amount of oil after fixing all the leaks.
This thread has great pics of the rear main and what the flywheel will look like if it's streaking.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/is-there-any-way-to-tell-if-the-hg-has-been-done.121718/
thank you Chairborne - going to try to get into that next time I'm under my truck, will post any results with pictures.
any recommendations for a rookie on the best oil-remover/cleaner if there's oil down there I'd like to clean up?
any recommendations for a rookie on the best oil-remover/cleaner if there's oil down there I'd like to clean up?
Simple green and a variety of stiff bristled brushes will work. A trip to the car wash does too. I've used gunk engine degreaser, it works great but it's sort of toxic.
I had opened this link and finally had a chance to read it. Good read, thanks for posting. Reinforces what I had always been told. Thicker isn't always better. Half the oil may be going out the bypass because the pump can't shove it through the bearings.
Grim...is that statement consistent with the NON USA oil recommendation chart?.....which shows 20w50 being OK for 10*F and warmer. ??
Too thick of oil will bring down the MPG's too. 15/40 is plenty for these pigs. 20/50 I would say if you consuming a lot of oil but not if your leaking a lot of oil. If leaking fix it.
The oils at start up can be so thick that most of it is going right back into the pan via the bypass till it gets warm enough to flow. At operating temp of 212 a 10w 30 is a thickness of 10. At 75f on a warm day it's a thickness of 100.
READ the link.
So this could be just me but after reading the whole thing shouldn't the conclusion be to use the thinnest oil because they are the same at operational temp and thinner is better for start up?
So instead of using 15-40 wouldn't it be better to have 0-40 or 0-30?
Why would the manufacture recommend thicker oil for warmer temp even though it will never be warm enough for thinnest oil at start up?
That's what I concluded as well. And IF they are all the same why does the thinner oil leak more than the thicker?
0-40 for me.