Rookie Break Questions/Rebuilding Front End/Damn Franchise Automotive Shops

[SleekFJ62]

First off, although I've cussed out my FJ62 extensively in the last three days, I must say that I love this truck and am amazed with the degree of bullet-proof engineering that went into it's construction.

I have a pressing (and project-limiting) question: How does one separate the front rotor backing plate from the brake line? I was able to work around the issue on the first 1/2 of the front axle rebuild project (after spending over an hour trying to figure SOMETHING out - don't ask - I will likely be replacing the flexible portion of the brake line on that side). I'm now being held up by this on the "short" side. There appears to be a "fitting" of sorts between the SS line and the flexible section, but for the life of me, I can't seem to figure out how to separate these two. I don't have the FSM (on a quasi back-order with C-Dan), but I do have the Haynes, IH8MUD, and Birfield - I've not been able to find the answer.

I realize that the resident Cruiser experts are lilkely to find themselves laughing aloud at this, but, as my web info will attest to, I am a rookie. I want to do this project, and I want to do it correctly.

...and speaking of "doing it correctly...". I started this project on the "long" side. In doing the first 1/2, I figured out how to do the work. I was almost excited to begin the second 1/2 having the knowledge to do the work efficiently. When I got in the "short" 1/2 of the axle, I was appaled with how the front hub/knuxkle/breaks etc. had been installed. When I pulled the hub dust cover off, the spring-ring circlip fell onto the garage floor. THEY JUST THREW IT IN THE DUST COVER HOUSING! This means that the short-side axle has been wandering laterally for some time - and I'm yet to see the diff end splines on the axle...(see aforementioned brake line disconnect issue).

Then I got to the free hub body. The cone washers had been installed backward. All nuts were torqued to the point that I needed a breaker bar to loosten them. The lock washers and the cone washers were totally disfigured and were useless for the rebuild. Good times! I've located new cone washers, but they were hard to find.

Based on the service/maintenance history on the truck, the last people in this axle were a franchise operation that is widespread in the northwest. I'm hesitant to name them, as I've had nothing but respect for this company until I saw this rebuild. I hope it is an isolated incident. You just never know what you're going to get - even from reputable shops.

My second question for this (getting quite long) email is: I will likely be replacing the flexible sections of brake line between the stainless section and the backing plate. My truck has and OME heavy front/medium rear and 31" tires. Are stock-length flexible hoses OK, or do I need a longer length for this set-up? Either way, I expect I'll replace them with braided stainless.

Look forward to hearing from you - my thanks in advance!

PS: I owe a debt of gratitude to all of you who have contributed to the IH8MUD front axle/birfield rebuild sections. I have learned SO much. I feel I know it for rote. Special thanks to C-Dan, Landpimp (JH), and Al at Titus-Will Toyota in Tacoma, WA.

 

[dogboy2]

since you're there, you may as well go with the extended stainless lines. it would absolutely suck to find out how short is too short when you're miles in the backcountry with your brake system hemorrhaging it's life fluid all over the trail.

-dogboy- '87 FJ60

 

[hilander]

On my rig the fitting on the back of the dust plate is riveted in place so you can't remove it. In my case the flex lines were cracked so I just cut them which allowed me to put the closed in of a wrench over the fittings to remove them. The fittings on mine were also badly corroded. The short hard lines from the dust plate fitting to the caliper requires a proper ferule wrench which is open just enough to get passed the line then slip over the fitting nut. I put stock lines back on the steering knuckles because unless your changing how much your wheels can turn, which I doubt, that will always be a fixed dimemsion. The only lines that may have to be lengthened at some point are the ones going from the frame to axle, one in the front and one in the rear. That's just my thoughts.

Good times.

 

[Boston Mangler]

They also make a nice line (Napa Part # 38878) that eliminates the backing plate junction all together. Thats what i did and heres a pic:

and

and

 

[CRZRJames]

As was said above, the length of the flex line does not need to lengthen because your lift does not change the dimension between the axle and brake backing plate. If you have to replace the flex lines, go with stainless as they will incrementally help the performance of the brake system as they will expand less when brakeing.

The area where I wheel mostly is wooded and therefore there are lots of opportunities to stuff a fallen tree limb up into the running gear. For this reason, I like the stock location of the flex brake line because it is more protected by the axle than the one Boston M. has installed. If you do all of your wheeling in Moab or the like, you probably don't have to worry about fallen tree limbs much.

To answer your first question, both the hard line to the caliper and the flex line to the axle ear, screw into the union which is permanently attached to the brake backing plate.

Good Luck,
James H.

 

[slo60]

This brings up a good question about the brake backing plate and the "permanently" attached union. Why are there two rivets, and one bolt? I agree with CRZRJames about the added protection of the brake line being attached out of harms way, so I left it there. To facilitate easier service of the knuckles, I ground off the two rivets that permanently hold this together, and now un-bolt the backing plate from the union. Easy

Anyone have any input on why this would be a bad idea?

 

[hilander]

I think that threaded hole is more for the caliper bolt plate than to hold the brake fitting on. I've see alot of rigs with those plates gone, I think those plates are intended to help keep the calipers from coming lose, or falling out if they do come lose. I may wrong about that though.

Good times.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

This brings up a good question about the brake backing plate and the "permanently" attached union. Why are there two rivets, and one bolt? I agree with CRZRJames about the added protection of the brake line being attached out of harms way, so I left it there. To facilitate easier service of the knuckles, I ground off the two rivets that permanently hold this together, and now un-bolt the backing plate from the union. Easy

Anyone have any input on why this would be a bad idea?

They used two rivets and a bolt so you would be partially motivated to drill out the rivets and add two more bolts...

I drilled the rivets and welded nuts on the backside (opposite side of the backing plate)... I have been running it this way for ~ 3 years without a problem...

 

[Landpimp]

and after 90, they did away with that union and just used a one peice hose, can unbolt the caliper and just move it out of the way(without loosing fluid)......so much nicer set up.

and Sandy, I checked again.......yes the OEM rotors now do not have the holes for the 2 bolts...........they just use the studs. Why toyota did this I have no idea.......seems silly to me.

I think the other guys answered your main question.

Les Scwabe? I can't even imagine how the cone washers could go on backwards........that takes some talent heck I don't think the nuts would even have enought thread to go on to with the cone washers backwards. the cir-clip......I have seen em come off before, eventually they just don't fit tight anymore(from taking them on and off) and its time for a new one, Prolly did no damage.

Oh and this is bound to come up, when trying to fit the clip to the axle, insert a bolt into the end of the axle, that hole is there just for that reason, now pull out when putting the clip on.......man I remember the 1st time I tried to get the clip on.......the axle would slide back in..and the clip wouldnt go on................then I saw the hole

If you need help.......just ask, I can come help.

John

 

[Boston Mangler]

The area where I wheel mostly is wooded and therefore there are lots of opportunities to stuff a fallen tree limb up into the running gear. For this reason, I like the stock location of the flex brake line because it is more protected by the axle than the one Boston M. has installed. If you do all of your wheeling in Moab or the like, you probably don't have to worry about fallen tree limbs much..

Excellent Point!!!

 

[SleekFJ62]

Thanks for the comments everybody. John: I appreciate your follow-up regarding the new OEM rotors. Most curious indeed. I did know about the axle bolt hole. Even so, re-installation of the circlip was a bit of a PITA.
I expect I'll be finishing up the project this weekend (rear brakes, rear brake cylinder, and tune-up still to come...). Y'all have a great weekend!