Rookie 1985 FJ70 owner

[dh0lms]

As the subject states, I am an absolute rook with anything 4x4's and cruisers.

I've got a pretty old FJ70 417+KM that defiantly needs a lot of TLC and I've come to here to get some advice from people who aren't trying to make killing off my lack of knowledge in this area

I'm ideally just wanting it to become a forby I can trust and can take my family and I on some good trips (Fraser Island etc) but also not for it to look like a rust pot.

First off I am in need of a new E-brake cable - any ideas where I could locate and what's the least I could pay for one of these?

Secondly, the body has quite of bit of rust and it seems that there are a lot of Aussies on the forum, so I'm looking to find out what would be an ideal price for someone like me to walk into a repair shop and expect to pay for the body to be redone.

If it helps ill try and get some photos up tomorrow to help in any advice people might want to offer...

Cheers!

d

 

[dh0lms]

Here are some quick shots of the Cruiser... If anyone one cares

 

[Gun Runner 5]

Here are some quick shots of the Cruiser... If anyone one cares

We all care .........
Welcome aboard.

 

[1985bj70]

Nice truck! Your definition of rust versus my definition is quite different, haha! Unless your photos are not showing the worst part of the truck. I will post up some ugly rust pics soon, from a Canadian LC...... Also, is that a FJ or a BJ70? Diesel truck? 12 volt setup or 24?

 

[creamychicken]

Compared to my canadian bj that things rust free, good score, I keep looking at the rust behind my door hinges saying I think I can, I think I can, I think I can haha

 

[roscoFJ73]

First off I am in need of a new E-brake cable - any ideas where I could locate and what's the least I could pay for one of these?


If it helps ill try and get some photos up tomorrow to help in any advice people might want to offer...

Cheers!

d

Do you mean a handbrake cable? They are still available from the dealer and roodogs 4wd spares sells a high quality aftermarket item.
I think the 2 I bought were both around a $150 but Im not certain of that.

With 417 klms on the clock I would be wanting to know how the compression stands.

 

[cicak]

We all care .........
Welcome aboard.

WE all care x2.

 

[dh0lms]

Nice truck! Your definition of rust versus my definition is quite different, haha! Unless your photos are not showing the worst part of the truck. I will post up some ugly rust pics soon, from a Canadian LC...... Also, is that a FJ or a BJ70? Diesel truck? 12 volt setup or 24?

Haha those were just some quick photos I took... There is definitely way more rust. I'll try and post more photos.

As for the handbrake - thank you I'll have a look at their site!

 

[dh0lms]

My last reply was after a long trip down to Byron Bay so I was pretty tired and didn't respond to most questions :whoops:

cicak: Thanks! I'm happy to be on here and hopefully I can learn a few things..


roscoFJ73: Yeah i'll have to have a look at roodogs etc.. Compression stands? Remember I'm a major rook here - Is that like compression in order for the handbrake to actually work?


creamychicken: Take a look at the new photos I posted.. Look familiar? Haha


1985bj70: I just check the previous registration papers, and it says it's an FJ, not a diesal (Petrol and LPG) and I have no idea what volt it is (how do I find out?)

I seem to have hit my upload limit on here..

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/40sfsffn7y2wp7x/-L-X1tZR9o

 

[roscoFJ73]

..


roscoFJ73: Yeah i'll have to have a look at roodogs etc.. Compression stands? Remember I'm a major rook here - Is that like compression in order for the handbrake to actually work?

Ok,when I said copression I meant engine compression. At 417000 it is fairly high for a 3F engine unless it has already been rebuilt.
Engine compression drops off as the pistons and piston rings wear out and most 3F engines will be looking fairly tired by 350000 klms
I suggested it to get a basic idea of how good the engine is before you start pouring money into other things.

: I just check the previous registration papers, and it says it's an FJ, not a diesal (Petrol and LPG) and I have no idea what volt it is (how do I find out?)

All FJ7* are 12 volt and all Australian diesels are 12 volt .Some diesel landcruisers sold in colder climes are 24 volt(nissan patrols are the same)

Dont worry about your lack of knowledge of things mechanical,there are plenty to help here

 

[dh0lms]

Ok,when I said copression I meant engine compression. At 417000 it is fairly high for a 3F engine unless it has already been rebuilt.
Engine compression drops off as the pistons and piston rings wear out and most 3F engines will be looking fairly tired by 350000 klms
I suggested it to get a basic idea of how good the engine is before you start pouring money into other things.

All FJ7* are 12 volt and all Australian diesels are 12 volt .Some diesel landcruisers sold in colder climes are 24 volt(nissan patrols are the same)

Thanks for clarifying that.

Being a Uni student for another year and a half, I'm going to try and hold off on putting money into it; although once I grad I'm looking to try and rebuild the whole car. I have no idea what things would cost to get it back into a reliable condition but am hoping it can be achieved.

I do have some connections with regards to mechanics etc but nothing will happen until more $$ is in the bank.

Just out of interest, has anyone rebuilt this engine or have had the body repaired/ rebuild? If so how much did it cost?

Thanks once again!

 

[roscoFJ73]

the engine would cost about $2500 plus installation and the cost of swapping all the peripherals over
You would be looking a $4000-$5000(Im guessing)

The rust is close to terminal in my opinion. Its just too hard to repair in those sections and expect it not to come back without spending a fortune on it.
But it really depends on your expectations.
The cops are begining to put vehicles off the road when they see rust in the roof and pillars

It would be cheaper to look around for 90s model diesel troopcarrier,you can pick them up for around $15k
Or look around for a 73/74 series with the FRP roof.
They are easier to do rust repairs and they tend to have less rust because of the fibreglass roof.The windscreen frame is replaceable unlike the 70 series.
Another option is an 80 series,they are cheap now and fairly rust resistant,probably the best bodies out of all landcruisers ever made IMO.

Enjoy what you have for the time being

 

[dh0lms]

the engine would cost about $2500 plus installation and the cost of swapping all the peripherals over
You would be looking a $4000-$5000(Im guessing)

The rust is close to terminal in my opinion. Its just too hard to repair in those sections and expect it not to come back without spending a fortune on it.
But it really depends on your expectations.
The cops are begining to put vehicles off the road when they see rust in the roof and pillars

It would be cheaper to look around for 90s model diesel troopcarrier,you can pick them up for around $15k
Or look around for a 73/74 series with the FRP roof.
They are easier to do rust repairs and they tend to have less rust because of the fibreglass roof.The windscreen frame is replaceable unlike the 70 series.
Another option is an 80 series,they are cheap now and fairly rust resistant,probably the best bodies out of all landcruisers ever made IMO.

Enjoy what you have for the time being

Haha

Well, with the aspirations I have for this car I might be contributing to this forum a lot more than expected.

Right now I'm just trying to get the thing road certified - Ha that's the first step!

But whenever I do get around to actually fixing things I'll be sure to update this thread with pictures etc..

 

[dh0lms]

Do you mean a handbrake cable? They are still available from the dealer and roodogs 4wd spares sells a high quality aftermarket item.
I think the 2 I bought were both around a $150 but Im not certain of that.

With 417 klms on the clock I would be wanting to know how the compression stands.

So I sent an email off to Roodogs 4WD and I got a reply from Neil stating that they do not carry the cables for my model

He said that the dealers would have them or to try and take the cable off and grease it up or try and get it unstuck (as this is the problem with the cable - it seems to be rusted frozen)

Any other place people might be able to recommend that might sell the cables? As I'm sure the dealers sell it at a premium..



Thanks!

 

[dh0lms]

Hello again!

I am pretty much spamming my own thread haha, but all I'm after is just some advice from people who obviously have a great knowledge and passion for this

First question I have is about switching from Fuel to Gas - The last time that I ran the cruiser on fuel was about 2 weeks ago and since then have been only using LPG (as I only drive 2-3 times a week). Now the cruiser wont start up on fuel unless the choke is about 70-80% out and then will eventually stall once I slowly push the choke all the way in.. Even while it's running on the choke about 15% out it kinda struggles and jitters. I have also tried warming it up on Gas then switch it to fuel, only for it to immediately stall out.

Any ideas?

Second thing is about some temporary anti-rust solution and putty ideas. I have a link --> (https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2349980/Video 10-03-13 6 33 01 PM.mov) which shows some of the worst rust on the car. Anyone have any advice as to how it might be able to stop this from getting worse? As I have yet to get a full run down on the condition of the engine (compression etc) before investing on getting the body redone professionally.

Many thanks!

D

 

[dh0lms]

Hey guys,

Even though I haven't gotten much replies on the previous post - I thought I would continue to spam my thread! Haha

I've had some work done to the engine and hand brake etc and she should be running pretty smooth now.

I still feel that the body of my toasted yoda is the biggest concern as you might be able to see the windshield and front posts are getting pretty nasty. Is it possible to turn the yoda into a soft top? Or would that just double the costs of just getting the normal body work done?

Thanks again guys!

 

[Hulsty]

IMO just keep an eye out for a replacement shell, ebay etc. For the cost of repairs you could buy a GQ patrol with none/minimal rust.

 

[dh0lms]

Thanks for the reply Hulsty... the idea of just spending the money on another new cleaner car seem to be a common reply from most people. So I might have to go and get some quotes nearby..

Since taking the car to a shop and having them fix the carbie, rear wheel seal, handbrake cable, oil change and fuel filter the car was initially running smoothly but now the fuel gauge isn't working (just sits well below empty and doesn't move)

Any idea on what might have caused this?

 

[Hulsty]

IMO for a old car that your going to use hard, you need to get handy with the tools, they need maintenance and little things adjusted here and there and you will save bulk $$$$ doing it yourself. ie wheel bearings, couple lazy hours at home and you can have them done.

For the fuel gauge, first check all your fuses and the plug to the sender. The sender plug is at the bottom of the rear doors, pretty much right in the middle, small black plug, two wires.

 

[NZCruisers]

IMO for a old car that your going to use hard, you need to get handy with the tools, they need maintenance and little things adjusted here and there and you will save bulk $$$$ doing it yourself. ie wheel bearings, couple lazy hours at home and you can have them done.

For the fuel gauge, first check all your fuses and the plug to the sender. The sender plug is at the bottom of the rear doors, pretty much right in the middle, small black plug, two wires.

X2 , good advice in this post

Doing your own maintenance/mods is part of 4WDing IMO

Its rediculous how much you can spend on your Cruiser if your not doing the work yourself. I have a mate with a BJ71 who's spent the better part of 25K on it and the thing doesn't even have a winch , because he can't ( read:won't) do any of the work himself.
Offroading you break something its like "sh1t why aren't my wheels spinning?"
Being hands on, means you can diagnose your own problems and better yet don't freak out every time something goes wrong ( Cost of parts alone can be scary sometimes let alone paying someone on top of those parts to fix your 70)

For me , if I couldn't mod my 70's I simply couldn't own them.