I've read the various threads/posts about routing power up to a roof rack but didn't find a clear, concise answer. When running cables down along the tailgate, what is the best/cleanest method of getting them into the rear cargo area?
Roof Rack Power Via Tailgate (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter catastrofe
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Do you need to route up the back? The windshield trim has a nice valley where you can tuck a loomed cord. This is a 16/4 bundle. Kinda hard to see with the frost, but it’s in there. Drill a couple of 1/8” holes and use small zip ties to secure.
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- #3
Honestly, I've been going back-and-forth on whether to go the A-Pillar route or via the tailgate. If I mount my aux battery in the rear, tailgate makes the most sense. However, that entails a lot of "custom" work for which I'm not the most skilled. If I use an aux battery tray up front (simple and clean), then the A-Pillar route is a no brainer. It does get more complicated as I plan to add 1 or 2 solar panels up top as well.
1/2" split loom also seems to fit the channel in the A-Pillar. Could be secured via cable ties or RTV for a very low profile look.
Just keep in mind that the side moldings need to be removed for a windshield replacement. Zip ties are easier to remove and replace than RTV.
I actually have a 16/4 bundle going up each side. So four circuits total, one each side for scene lights, one for tent power, and one for solar. You could use chassis for ground and increase your circuit capacity, but I prefer to run dedicated grounds wherever possible.
Have you considered how you will charge the aux batt if in the rear? If using a BCDC mounted at the battery it shouldn't matter but if charging directly through a solenoid you'll have a bit of voltage drop running to the back.
I use these standard two-pole connectors with a little bit of dielectric grease to provide the ability to remove/modify the uses up top.
I actually have a 16/4 bundle going up each side. So four circuits total, one each side for scene lights, one for tent power, and one for solar. You could use chassis for ground and increase your circuit capacity, but I prefer to run dedicated grounds wherever possible.
Have you considered how you will charge the aux batt if in the rear? If using a BCDC mounted at the battery it shouldn't matter but if charging directly through a solenoid you'll have a bit of voltage drop running to the back.
I use these standard two-pole connectors with a little bit of dielectric grease to provide the ability to remove/modify the uses up top.
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- Thread starter
- #5
Thanks for the additional info and the tip on RTV. . .hadn't even thought about the "what if" regarding windshield replacement.
One of the reasons I'm considering a rear mount for the battery is engine bay heat. I could throw a LiFePo4 (even a DIY unit) in the back and not be concerned about failure. Up front, not even sure if AGM is a good choice. I've read tons of mixed opinions about AGM in engine bays. Most say don't do it, but my wife's Mini has an AGM (OEM battery) mounted under the hood, back against the firewall which is probably hotter than up near the radiator.
I do plan to use a BCDC or CTek unit at the aux battery.
Any reason you didn't run 14 or 12 gauge? 16 doesn't carry much amperage. . .my light bar draws 20 amps. I'm thinking of using one conductor as a ground connection from the rack to the engine bay, probably the same ground point as the starter battery.
Honestly, I'd need to double check the spool to see if it's 14/4 or 16/4. I don't have high current needs up there. I typically over do things so it's probably a heavier gauge.
