roof rack flooring

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tyraps as in zapstraps? i got a bunch of the heavy duty ones that i was gonna use to strap my jackall to the roof rack when i need it. the ones i got have a breaking strength of 175 lbs versus the more standard 50 lb ones. or am i off here? i'm sure you could bolt/washer the thing down as well if you really wanted to.
 
My plan was for just your average 12" black tyraps, not even the ones with the metal tabs inside. I considered using some .041" safety wire from work but I don't want to damage the powder coating.
 
i'm just looking at the weight of this polymax kennel flooring. 8 lbs per 2' x 4' sheet. it works out to 2 lbs less (total) than the expanded metal i want. i think the only advantage with going the plastic poultry floor route is the price would be cheaper. downside is mounting it though. with metal i can have the same effect, easier to tie down to, can weld all the way around.
 
metalonmetal said:
i'm just looking at the weight of this polymax kennel flooring. 8 lbs per 2' x 4' sheet. it works out to 2 lbs less (total) than the expanded metal i want. i think the only advantage with going the plastic poultry floor route is the price would be cheaper. downside is mounting it though. with metal i can have the same effect, easier to tie down to, can weld all the way around.


IIRC the 16 Ga expanded metal was like $40-$45 per sheet. Check around your area for ornamental iron suppliers, they use it for security doors.
 
i got word from a guy here on the forum (pbgbottle) about a local metal recycler, i'm gonna give them a look, not too far from my place. i'm interested to see how stiff the 16ga sheets are. they're half the weight per sq ft than the 10ga, for the weight difference i'd almost give up the ability to walk across the rack.
 
metalonmetal said:
here are some pictures, the rack has an inside dimension of 58" x 80.5"
sm-roof-rack 001.jpg

sm-roof-rack 004.jpg
I had the same basic floor in my Conn-Fer rack and gave alot of thought to what I would do since the plywood sheet was, well lets say that after 10 years in the desert sun it had to go. This is what I did. I'm very happy with it and it is much stronger. If you would like more detailed photos, I can post them. The tubing I used was heaver wall than standard and I have not had anything up there small enough to fall through the spacing
78FJ40 28M.webp
78FJ40 17M.webp
 
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go for it, i'd love to see some more pictures. i think it's a good option, and whatever i'm putting up there will most likely be in my canvas bags or boxes, so the spacing wouldn't be an issue. i don't know anything about the conferr racks, are they aluminum or steel?
 
FirstToy said:
Here is a good thread- the clearspan flooring looks good n light

http://www.4wdtrips.net/forum/showthread.php?t=3409

IBCRUSN said:
This is the stuff I'm going to use for the flooring on my rack (pick up at CMCC). Got the idea from a Rover guy that I wheeled with a few months back. Strong, lighter than steel and never rusts.

Chicken coup flooring


Before you all poke fun you better read it. Hell, when I brought it up Bill from BA Outfitters he thought it was a much better option than expanded steel. One more thing, you never have to paint it, try that with wood or expanded steel.

that's really not a bad idea.

hmmm...what else could I use that for...hmmm...
 
I cut some 6" holes evenly speced, located at junctions of the tubing floor: that way, I could loop a hook or a cord around the tubes and tie the pelican cases down. Also had a wedco can carrier that was bolted to the king suff.
DW
 
metalonmetal said:
go for it, i'd love to see some more pictures. i think it's a good option, and whatever i'm putting up there will most likely be in my canvas bags or boxes, so the spacing wouldn't be an issue. i don't know anything about the conferr racks, are they aluminum or steel?
They are steel. More photos tomorrow
 
metalonmetal said:
go for it, i'd love to see some more pictures. i think it's a good option, and whatever i'm putting up there will most likely be in my canvas bags or boxes, so the spacing wouldn't be an issue. i don't know anything about the conferr racks, are they aluminum or steel?
The original Con-Ferr rack had two light gage u-shaped channels going side to side. In the photo you can see where I cut them and welded them to the first new cross member. With the original setup the plywood floor would rest on the roof when I loaded the rack up. With this new design, the square tube flooring does not bend. At least not with what I'm willing to carry on top.
Roof Rack 01.webp
Roof Rack 02.webp
 
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cbmontgo said:
Here are a couple of pics of my setup. This is a Wilderness rack with a welded-in expanded steel flooring. Expanded steel is very durable, and holds an amazing amount without flexing too much.
Nice rack. I like the Wilderness line of roof racks. I have one on my turbo diesel 4x4 with their tire carrier. I do like the expanded metal. On mine the configuration of the floor appears different. I purchased two of their floor kits since that L265-75 16 stays there. As far as bolt together racks go it is one of the better ones all the more with those improvements you've made.
 
cbmontgo said:
Here are a couple of pics of my setup. This is a Wilderness rack with a welded-in expanded steel flooring. Expanded steel is very durable, and holds an amazing amount without flexing too much.

beautiful. do you know what guage or size that expanded metal is? or at least how big the openings are and the thickness.
 
thanks for the extra pics. have you walked on that rack? doesn't look like it would hold the weight of the average joe. not even crossmembers underneath. any idea of how much weight you've had up there total? that pic from underneath shows that you have plenty clearance between the rack and your roof. in the center of my rack i have less than an inch of clearance which i'm worried about bowing under weight, and under rough terrain. i don't want metal punching through my fiberglass roof. do you, or does anybody know, if it matters the orientation of the diamonds? i was thinking of having them situated the opposite way of the wilderness rack. if i got the raised expanded metal, it would also act as a non-slip surface and provide a bit more stiffness.
 
metalonmetal said:
thanks for the extra pics. have you walked on that rack? doesn't look like it would hold the weight of the average joe. not even crossmembers underneath. any idea of how much weight you've had up there total? that pic from underneath shows that you have plenty clearance between the rack and your roof. in the center of my rack i have less than an inch of clearance which i'm worried about bowing under weight, and under rough terrain. i don't want metal punching through my fiberglass roof. do you, or does anybody know, if it matters the orientation of the diamonds? i was thinking of having them situated the opposite way of the wilderness rack. if i got the raised expanded metal, it would also act as a non-slip surface and provide a bit more stiffness.
Looking at how he put the expanded steel under the tubing, you could also weld some additional heavy wall square tubing on the frame like my rack, level with the existing tubing. You could then tack weld the expanded metal to the bottom of the cross members which would tie adjoining tube members together spreading the load. I like the expanded steel. Do you have any idea what the weight is per square foot for that expanded metal sheet?
 
Good points; I do have plenty of clearance under mine. If you had less clearance, it might be a good idea to weld in some crossmembers as you suggested, especially if you have really large tires that will sit up there. You know how heavy those get...

I have never slept up there or put more than probably 300lbs spread evenly. I use it mostly for distributing weight off my ass end when off roading or hunting. It has always worked great for me though.

I'm not sure what the actual rating per sq ft is for expanded metal/steel.
 
i think 300 lbs spread out is the most i'd be looking to throw up on my rack, that gives me a good benchmark, thanks.
 

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