Roof Mounted Solar

[TeCKis300]

At least a mockup of what 100W and 50W of solar on the roof will look like.

I'm setting up a portable solar briefcase with a couple 50W panels. Since I car camp, tent camp, and RV with a travel trailer, I wanted this portable for use in any form of travel. Other factor is that I park under shade when possible, which means having a portable panel is the only way to go. That said, no reason this couldn't be setup for both mounting and portable use with the right mounts. With some Anderson quick connectors.

So what does 100W or 50W worth of panels on the roof of the LX look like?

This would be exceedingly easy to install permanently. Some mounts, and run the solar wire down the rear hatch between the weather seal. Would be adaptable to a hard mounted dual batt setup, or a portable Goal Zero style unit (which is in my plans for future... once they upgrade the Yeti 1000 model with USB-C).

100W of solar like this could power a fridge indefinitely. I want it to replenish the batt after powering heated blankets for the night. With panels so cheap, less focus on reserve and more on generation is the way to go. Doesn't hurt that solar chargers do an incredible job of maintaining batts, always ready to go, and more battery longevity to boot.

 

[tbisaacs]

I did something similar on my Suburban! Same idea. Used a residential grade Renogy panel-feed the lines down the weather strip into my Goal
Zero:

The suburban was so long I could still fit a basket and maxtrax behind.

I’d love to do the same setup on my 570 but need the space for a Thule.

 

[bemerritt]

Ive thought about this as well. Could also be a great way to keep an agm started topped off. But really dont want to drill into the roof to route the wires. So that’s when i stopped thinking about it.

 

[TeCKis300]

Ive thought about this as well. Could also be a great way to keep an agm started topped off. But really dont want to drill into the roof to route the wires. So that’s when i stopped thinking about it.

Agreed, and there's no need to. Like those that install light bars up top. Just follow the gutter to the sides of the roof rack, and drop it down the seam to the hatch area. Cross the hatch seal and that's it. No drilling involved.

 

[Fisher23]

I have been thinking of doing the same thing .. but mounting them with a lower profile so that they are out of the wind.

 

[Sandroad]

I cross the hatch weatherstrip with my cell phone booster antenna wire too. I run the wire down the side of the hatch/tailgate along the weatherstrip and enter near the bottom of the seal to minimize the potential for any leaks.

 

[bemerritt]

Awesome, thanks for the info.

As for low profile, on my previous van build I had two 100 watt panels mounted inside my 80/20 T slot rack. It kept them protected and also allowed me to use the full rack when needed. Could use the same idea with some of the 200 series T slot racks. Or even just two 80/20 cross bars as shown elsewhere in this forum.

 

[TeCKis300]

That's a great looking....rack!

 

[Fisher23]

What are you guys using to control the battery charging?

 

[TeCKis300]

For those with a portable battery like a Goal Zero, just a wire adapter from the solar panel to the built in solar charge controller is all that is needed: MC4 to Anderson Powerpole Connector

For a hardwired system, a charge controller like this would be easiest. Perhaps mounted to the back of the panel itself.
Renogy Voyager - 20A Negative PWM Waterproof Charge Controller w/ LCD Display and LED Bar

Solar panels generally come with MC4 pigtails. Adapt that to flying leads that connect to the controller. Then run the output of the controller directly to the battery terminals. These charge controllers can support just about any battery type directly. Including Lithium-ion, LiFePO4, LTO, Gel, AGM, Flooded, and Calcium.

If one wants the car to also charge the house battery, add a separate DC to DC charge controller. Two charge controllers (one from solar, one from engine 12V) to one battery is completely fine.

 

[Fisher23]

Thanks for posting this !

 

[dubyahard]

I'm about to do this same thing. My goal is really just to keep my fridge from having to shut off to protect the battery - so keeping the battery topped off.
I have a 100W Renogy Eclipse
I have a Overland Solar MPPT controller
I have the structural t-slotted extruded aluminum to follow @tbisaacs recommendation for adding capability to stock roof rack

I plan on installing this Friday and running wires down the driver a-pillar channel direct to battery. Hopefully this will work. Overland Solar made it sound easy.

I wired the fridge already, running 2AWG +/- to to a 6 fuse blue sea fuse block in the driver rear quarter panel. There is not much room there so if you have other suggestions, let me know.

 

[catastrofe]

This guy is a great resource for DIY solar: DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse

 

[Fisher23]

I'm about to do this same thing. My goal is really just to keep my fridge from having to shut off to protect the battery - so keeping the battery topped off.
I have a 100W Renogy Eclipse
I have a Overland Solar MPPT controller
I have the structural t-slotted extruded aluminum to follow @tbisaacs recommendation for adding capability to stock roof rack

I plan on installing this Friday and running wires down the driver a-pillar channel direct to battery. Hopefully this will work. Overland Solar made it sound easy.

I wired the fridge already, running 2AWG +/- to to a 6 fuse blue sea fuse block in the driver rear quarter panel. There is not much room there so if you have other suggestions, let me know.

How are you hooking you battery up? Are you running off the main or a 2nd lithium or..?

 

[dubyahard]

Panel will go to MPPT controller attached directly to the only battery.

 

[Desert Yeti]

Here's the 55W panel I put on at the beginning of the summer. I carry too much crap on my roof to put panels up there. I upgraded to a big Group 31 battery and this keeps it well topped off with the ARB in the truck all the time

 

[JAW]

Here's the 55W panel I put on at the beginning of the summer. I carry too much crap on my roof to put panels up there. I upgraded to a big Group 31 battery and this keeps it well topped off with the ARB in the truck all the time

View attachment 2041819

View attachment 2041820

What is the make model of this panel? How did you secure to hood? Thanks?

 

[eatSleepWoof]

A few years ago I mounted a renogy 100W solar panel underneath my FrontRunner roof rack; it slid out on drawer slides whenever I needed it, and then slid back under the rack. Worked great.

 

[Desert Yeti]

Its from LenSun on Amazon, you need a controller also. I bought the extension cables but had plenty on the panel and did not need them

I tried a couple methods.:
The first I saw an on FJ Cruiser forum. They use a piece of black vinyl (sticker/car wrap), cut it into a reasonable shape (rectangle/wedge). Apply to the car and then use 3M molding tape to apply to the vinyl. Then you can always remove it all if you want.

I tried this and since my truck has the exterior bed lined the vinyl would not adhere.

I found some stronger than the 3M, Gorilla molding tape and mounted it directly to the hood, I can always scrape it off or use solvents to remove it.

 

[Mogwai]

Here's the 55W panel I put on at the beginning of the summer. I carry too much crap on my roof to put panels up there. I upgraded to a big Group 31 battery and this keeps it well topped off with the ARB in the truck all the time

View attachment 2041819

View attachment 2041820

IMO hood mounted solar is the way to go. You've got flexible panels out there above 24% efficiency which is great. The Trailpower team is getting over 160W from their hood setup on their GX and our hood (well pre 15') have about the same amount of usable space.