Roma's desmog

[Output Shaft]

If you've connected the HAC vac hose to the distributor inner diaphragm, you no longer have any vacuum advance unless you're above 4000 ft. Then you'll have way too much at idle (16°).

If the vac advance hose is not connected, it needs to be plugged.

If you had a chronic, persistent vacuum leak, like the manifold gasket, a VCV, or the carb base, the idle wouldn't be smooth then stumble when the gas pedal was pushed down. Instant stumble when the gas is pressed down is usually a worn accelerator pump plunger in the carb.

For a test run, reconnect the vac advance hose on the the inner distributor diaphragm and remove and plug the HAC hose. See how that runs.

What elevation are you at & usually drive?

 

[CaptClose]

You're drawing a lot of vacuum off the EGR pipe. A near perfect seal might be okay at idle, but when you mash down on the throttle, any leak is going to be exploited. Essentially, it's the same as having a crack in your manifold.

Let's see what @Output Shaft has to say, but I would start there.

Man-a-fre sells an awesome little blockoff plate with a valve to keep your PCV in play. Click here. It gives you a real clean factory look and eliminates the need to weld off the pipe.

 

[NOVAFJ60]

Thanks guys, ran the inner dizzy vacuum to the vacuum advance on the carb. Runs great-ish. Still needs some work but much better. CPT went on manfre and ordered the plate. Thanks much guys!

 

[Bear Lake Cruiser]

Would you use any gasket sealant on the EGR block off plate? Not the one on the exhaust manifold but the one on the intake manifold tapped for the PVC line? @Output Shaft ?

 

[CaptClose]

Would you use any gasket sealant on the EGR block off plate? Not the one on the exhaust manifold but the one on the intake manifold tapped for the PVC line? @Output Shaft ?

I didn't. I just used the gasket and it seems to be holding up well for me. Hope that helps.

 

[Bear Lake Cruiser]

Thanks. That is what I suspected.

 

[Output Shaft]

I never have. Has never leaked. I think since that spot is a vacuum instead of constantly fluctuating pressure and not 800° like the spot on exhaust manifold, the stress on the intake gasket is a lot less than the hell down below.

 

[Bear Lake Cruiser]

I never have. Has never leaked. I think since that spot is a vacuum instead of constantly fluctuating pressure and not 800° like the spot on exhaust manifold, the stress on the intake gasket is a lot less than the hell down below.

Yes, it would have to be one tough sealant to work there. The only reason I am going with the block plate is that the current gasket on the old EGR manifold tube is leaking just a tad of oil mist/film that gets sucked over there via the PVC circuit.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Yes, it would have to be one tough sealant to work there. The only reason I am going with the block plate is that the current gasket on the old EGR manifold tube is leaking just a tad of oil mist/film that gets sucked over there via the PVC circuit.

Interesting explanation and timing is such a funny thing. I just had my truck running after many changes and repairs... carb rebuild ect and while it was running I was watching a vapor/smoke/exhaust looking whatever around the stock EGR plate area and the EGR tube that was crimped and welded shut by a PO.

 

[Godwin]

Made good use of this thread yesterday and the photos were especially helpful, thanks Roma.

 

[magoosFJ60]

When putting in the Plugs (Air rail and lower BVSV) did you use any thread sealant?

 

[roma042987]

I use hondabond which is pretty much same stuff as Toyota fipg. Although I don't believe its technically necessary in those areas. I'd put a slight amount of your favorite rtv on the threads just in case

 

[Landpimp]

I used the OEM plugs for the air rail, not cheap for sure, but used nothing on them as they don't need it, other plugs that are not really the correct thread may

When putting in the Plugs (Air rail and lower BVSV) did you use any thread sealant?

 

[Spike Strip]

The plugs are pipe thread, so they will seal without crap on them, but if you ever want to remove the Air Rail plugs again, I'd use high-temp anti-seize, otherwise just let them rust in peace.

 

[CaptClose]

I used some teflon tape on the BVSV's and some anti-seize on the air rail plugs.