So, any updates on how the 2F is running after doing the desmoggaroni?
Roma's desmog
- Thread starter roma042987
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- Thread starter
- #22
Runs much better than before. It's my daily driver so I have logged close to 1000 miles since the desmog. Starting is better and has more power on the freeway, can actually cruise fairly comfortably at 70
Looks like a great set of pictures to base my snail's pace desmog around. except, that is, for the HAC....planning on running up and down plenty of mountains in the upcoming spring and summer! I notice there are no negative comments or call-outs so I must assume that this might be the best images to use as a guideline along with the 47 page thread and the "how to desmog an FJ60" pdf.
I used Roma's pics they were great I also drew a schematic using the how to Desmog pdf#2 and kept the HAC. I will post some pics if Roma doesn't mind me adding to his post. My 60 runs great now. I will do my best to get it on here or just up as a new post asap.
obviously, my reply to your reply will be +1, a "like", and a tremulous wait on any response...
Here are some pics of my Desmog. If you see something wrong let me know. I printed out the Desmog pdf. http://everythingfj60.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/How+to+Desmog+an+FJ60-2.pdf
And studied it for a few days. Then I drew my own schematic... And removed the I/e manifold and replaced with sor header and added a O2 sensor&meter in cabin,vac gauge in cabin & Intake heater bypass
I replaced
Dizzy cap
Rotor
Manifold gasket
Vacuum hoses - Goodyear from summit
And studied it for a few days. Then I drew my own schematic... And removed the I/e manifold and replaced with sor header and added a O2 sensor&meter in cabin,vac gauge in cabin & Intake heater bypass
I replaced
Dizzy cap
Rotor
Manifold gasket
Vacuum hoses - Goodyear from summit
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #28
haven't checked this thread in a while. I actually had someone ask me about a desmog the other day and I referred back to my thread and couldn't make heads or tails again lol. It would have been better maybe if I used some neon vacuum hose and I guess it helps to familiarize yourself with the terminology before diving in. She's still running great by the way I had to replace some of my hoses a while back because apparently some rodents decided they liked the taste of fresh new silicone. 
I'm following your's on my build Roma so thank you!
-o-
-o-
Does this document still exist?
CaptClose
SILVER Star
Awesome thank you.
I used the desmog doc from JimC to make my doc. I found it hard to understand so I started from scratch. My cruiser has done great with the desmog and dizzy and carb adjustment, I have about 5,000 miles on it since then. Several 700 mile trips without a single issue. I flip back and forth on getting the dizzy and carb reworked for better power band or going TBI and electronic dizzy! You know soulful or soulless!
So I bought the JimC desmog kit for my 85 FJ60 and spent a few weeks intermittently following the great guide boerick built. However, finished up this morning and started it up and coolant starts flowing out of the front of the engine. When I did the bsv2 plug I lost some coolant because stupidly I overlooked the fact that when I opened that coolant would come out. But after that I seemed to have developed a leak once the new plug was in somewhere around the water pump I guess, can't really find it. So my question is, would the desmog pump pully or opening up the BSV2 system release some pressure or otherwise cause a leak??? Water pump was fine before, no squeals or anything. Thanks all!
CaptClose
SILVER Star
Take the BVSV plugs out and use a little silicone tape around the threads and then re-torque them down. See if that stops the flow. Otherwise, you may have inadvertently knocked something loose. Re-check all your coolant gaskets and hoses, etc... It is going to be something simple, you just have to find it. Good luck man.
If the metal spaghetti piping was removed at any time, it uses one of the thermostat housing bolts under its retaining tab. When this bolt is removed it will break the seal. Often when its torqued back down its fine... but if the bolt wasn't replaced.....
Capt and OS, thanks. OS you guessed right, I dropped the spaghetti out and didn't put the bolt back in. Get a little coolant leak at the seal of the block and water pump but I think some tightening will work that out.
Thanks very much, I would have been so angry with myself if I dropped out the radiator to look around and it was something stupid.
Best,
Scott
Thanks very much, I would have been so angry with myself if I dropped out the radiator to look around and it was something stupid.
Best,
Scott
OK, the last one. I sort of promise. So thanks to the site I got it running and it sounds great. At least in idle. without touching the carb or dizzy it purrs at around 700 rpm on warm idle. However, as soon as you want to move and you rev and let out on the clutch it drops and bogs down terribly. Then it goes back to a wonderful idle.
I did a partial desmog as you can see. Any idea why it doesn't want to go? The secondary advance on the distributor is rusted out and the primary is going to the HAC. Is that wrong? I'm at a loss.
Ignore the hillbilly tape on the EGR leftovers, I'm going to the welder tomorrow.
I did a partial desmog as you can see. Any idea why it doesn't want to go? The secondary advance on the distributor is rusted out and the primary is going to the HAC. Is that wrong? I'm at a loss.
Ignore the hillbilly tape on the EGR leftovers, I'm going to the welder tomorrow.
CaptClose
SILVER Star
I've been wrong on about everything so far... but it sounds like a vacuum leak to me. I can't tell from your pics, but how is your EGR pipe off the intake manifold plugged?
The small tube is going to the PCV, the big one that went to the valve is hillybilly'ed with a plumbing cap, the threads are a little off so I'm not certain its a perfect seal. It may be leaking a little but not a lot. Thanks!
