Roll cage/frame tie-ins... pics?
- Thread starter Rix86
- Start date
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All I could tell you is use bushings in the frame mounts. If you mount the cage to the frame rigid, with the body sandwiched in between you will have problems. The frame will flex, and body mounts are flexible because of this. You can get away with a rigid mount, better if it is not. The body needs to flex!
go hit ~ M E T A L T E C H 4x4 . C O M ~ for awesome idea, or just buy their kit (cheap and good)
This is the way i did my Frame ties, from a previous post,
IH8MUD.com - View Single Post - wanted - pics of cage to frame tie in - not the best photo, but it is welded to the frame with a plate, and to a double plate under the cage.. Slight bend, and 1.5" tube..
I dont think Metal Tech offers a B Pillar Frame Tie in their kit.
With a stock wheelbase, there is not alot of room for a frame tie.
I agree, B Pillar Tie is Very important
IH8MUD.com - View Single Post - wanted - pics of cage to frame tie in - not the best photo, but it is welded to the frame with a plate, and to a double plate under the cage.. Slight bend, and 1.5" tube..
I dont think Metal Tech offers a B Pillar Frame Tie in their kit.
With a stock wheelbase, there is not alot of room for a frame tie.
I agree, B Pillar Tie is Very important
Why? we offer 2 versions with out cage kits, but why dose it "need" to flex?
Solid mounted helps stiffen up the frame and elimitnate hood misalignment while flexing..
my rig used to do this before the cage..
i have their cage and i love it
metal tech frame tie ends http://metaltech4x4.com/productsframeset.htm
look under roll cage accessories
metal tech frame tie ends http://metaltech4x4.com/productsframeset.htm
look under roll cage accessories
- Thread starter
- #9
Again..... nothing for b pillar/main hoop.
I looked, honestly, I did.
- Thread starter
- #10
What's you axle location and wheel backspacing?
(and axle width?)
Yeah... definately NOT alot of room.
I have flipped the rear springs, So the axle has been moved back about 4" or so.
Sorry, I still have some Rubicon mud on there
Sorry, I still have some Rubicon mud on there
- Thread starter
- #14
OK, cool.I have flipped the rear springs, So the axle has been moved back about 4" or so.
Sorry, I still have some Rubicon mud on there
Much appreciated
Looks like I might be flipping the rear springs and cutting what's left of the bondo. I mean wheel well.
Axle is ~5" back, Flipped Fj60 Rears, New hangers..
Wheel backspacing (FJC Wheels) is 4.5" 55"WTW Rear Axle + 3" Wheel Spacers..
Yeah, for some reason they pulled a lot of the pics they used to have.
They do have provisions for a B pillar. it is basicaly the same as the C pillar support that you see in the pics. You can move the bend in the brace to give additional clearance for the front of your tire.
As far as the argument for/against frame flex..
Cruiser frames do not flex that much, by the time they flex like Isotel's they are pretty old and getting weak. Adding the frame tie in's will stiffen the frame. Depending on how hard you use you rig will play a big part in how you tie the cage in. If you are going to roll it and you know that, then just mount the body solidly.
If not, it's better to isolate the body from the frame with bushings to reduce vibrations, allow the body to flex independantly of the frame, etc..
Good point! A solid frame mount would be stronger in that case! It most deffiently make a worn frame stronger more rigid, and better off for any frame in repeated rollovers. I think if I were going to roll it for sure all the time............ I'd probably cut holes and bypass the body all together. Go to the frame, straight up, through the holes in the body, and not sandwich it in between. Leave room around the edges for flex. I know my existing cage is mounted on the 2 rear fender or body supports and wouldn't work in that case. So I don't know, just a though I had.
The body is supposed to have flex in the mounts regardless if it really needs it.
- Thread starter
- #18
My aim to have the body tub still be removable.
If needed the tub could be swapped out, drill a few holes, and bolt the cage back on.
DIY4X: Catering to those who enjoy doing it themselves. has the sheer plates I'll be using towards that end.
these
andthese
Like we did here: http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c148/rix86/OLG/7runner/
If needed the tub could be swapped out, drill a few holes, and bolt the cage back on.
DIY4X: Catering to those who enjoy doing it themselves. has the sheer plates I'll be using towards that end.
these
andthese
Like we did here: http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c148/rix86/OLG/7runner/
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I was trying to say that you could still make a removable roll cage, but I am not sure it was understood.
Drill holes around the frame tie ins. Round plates (3" dia. maybe) would be best to mate the cage to the frame tie ins. You could cut the holes big enough to remove the tub if needed (hole saw). I didn't want to imply that you should build the cage straight to the frame completely. It can be built so the cage is solid to the frame, removeable, and still allow for body flex. That is how I want to do it. I want a new cage, but on a "street'able" cruiser. That means keeping the body, not a full buggy with tubes only. I don't know what your build is exactly, holes in the floor might be a "no" for you. I live in utah, 4 seasons here! Your cruiser will never be a Cadallac, its Loud, Leaky, Uncomfortable, built for utility.
Straight to the frame for strength!
Otherwise bushings are best so the body can flex as the engineers intended!
If holes don't bother, have the best of both worlds.
Build what you want. Dont listen to me just because! I'm just throwing my 2 cents at you trying to help.
Good luck with whatever you decide
sterling
- Thread starter
- #20
I'm so not worried about the sheetmetal flexing or not.
If I have to, I can remove the square of sheet metal and put some rubber flangie stuff to seal it.
And if the tub ever gets replaced, it'll be simple to mark and redrill the holes or whatever.
Now to figure out main hoop placement.....
If I have to, I can remove the square of sheet metal and put some rubber flangie stuff to seal it.
And if the tub ever gets replaced, it'll be simple to mark and redrill the holes or whatever.
Now to figure out main hoop placement.....
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