Rod and Main Bearings 1FZ

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mtrdud

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Feb 4, 2006
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I have a 97 1fz-fe on a stand that I obtained a while back for my existing knocking motor. I'm not doing a rebuild on it, I just want to freshen up the main bearings and connecting rod bearings while they are easily accessible. After reading the FSM and removing a couple of bearings I see that these engines have a variety of replcement bearing options. Also, after asking Beno and reading an old post from Cruiserdan I also see that there are multiple options as far as bearings in that this is a "select fit" motor. The FSM lists the schematic and where to find the stampings (if you cannot read them on the bearings) which is not as easy to see as the FSM makes it out. My question is - Are there multiple different sizes of mains and connecting rod bearings for EACH main/connecting rod in one engine or are they all the same across the engine? I need to order bearings and NO I haven't pulled them all apart yet. I'm just curious about what lies ahead as I pull the crank out. I don't see the need for a regrind so far.

Thanks
 
since you have the engine on a stand, this will be easy enough. each cap is marked as per the FSM, and requires the specific bearing for the marking.
 
Yeah I'm finding the number on that bearing as well as the stamp on the rod however the main I pulled was not as evident. It had a four number series on it. The stamping on the block is clear (3) but I'm not seeing the one on the crank as of yet.
 
I did my con rods a couple of years back, on my back in the driveway during a friggin snow-storm, don't ask! but at the time the mains were in great shape, even the cons were pretty good-again don't ask. my memory isn't clear on exactly where I found all the markings. are the bearings worn? I got raped by my dealer up here, over $400 for 6 con rod bearings, with trade discount. wish I called Beno back then!
 
As I stated in my PM, you can buy a "set" and have the crank machined down,

OR

You can get bearings in sizes for each con and main. There are 5 different possible sizes for each con and 5 different possible sizes for each main.

Clear?
 
quasi said:
I did my con rods a couple of years back, on my back in the driveway during a friggin snow-storm, don't ask! but at the time the mains were in great shape, even the cons were pretty good-again don't ask. my memory isn't clear on exactly where I found all the markings. are the bearings worn? I got raped by my dealer up here, over $400 for 6 con rod bearings, with trade discount. wish I called Beno back then!
Click to expand...


Holy cow. That is an insane rip-off.
 
Aftermarkets are not these "split" "blueprint" type bearings. I would imagine that if the crank is used that there is enough wear that you need to be able to measure in .0001 of an inch. most instruments not set up to. If you machine the crank the machine shop would need to be able to measure the crank, big end rod, mains, etc. Same on piston sizing. Aftermarkets art standard sets. Buy aftermarket bearings and be done if journals are good, then plastigauge.
 
@mtrdud unless you like spending more money you can go to rockauto.com and order a full set of std size bearings from clevite. I am not sure if they have the small end bearings but I have used there big end rod, mains and thrust washers when I rebuilt my 94. Runs extremely smooth. I worried over the numbers for a long time, whether I would mess something up not matching everything back to factory. Then I realized the difference between bearing numbers is .0001 ( ten thousandths of an inch ) and that it wasn't going to matter. Clevite bearings for our rigs are manufactured in Japan and are of exceptional quality.
 
My local dealer gives a TLCA discount, so Robbie ordered a properly matched set when we did my lower end. When I want to pick them up they had ordered seven con-rod bearings, to which I asked if they thought the 1FZ-FE was a seven-cylinder motor. At first the parts guy looked at me funny, until he realized his error. :hillbilly: Check the parts twice before dropping them in for sure.
 
It's in the repair manual.
 
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