RMP&O's 1984 FJ60, v8, lockers and more!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Worked on my cruiser till about 2:30am last night, that is about a 12hr day working on it. :rolleyes:

Drained tranny & t-case, fluid was clean. I wanted to replace it because I was grinding into 2nd more often then it should and it was getting a bit loud in the tranny. When I drained the gear boxes I noticed the tranny seemed low and the t-case seemed over full. This leads me to believe I have a common problem found on Cruisers. IE, the seal between the tranny & t-case has failed and so my tranny fluid is working it's way into my t-case. Bummer, means spitting the two to fit a new seal and fix the problem.

After I did that I installed new motor mounts. One bolt was seized on the t-case/tranny cross member so it broke. A real bummer because to fix it right means dropping the tranny and drilling out the hole. It has a nut welded on the inside of the frame rail. Four bolts per side of the x-member so I put those back in less one on the busted bolt. Tossed a welded on it to hold it until a later date when I do a chassis swap. Until then I simply do not care.

Next up I cleaned a number of sensors on my engine. TPS (throttle position sensor), MAP and ICA valve sensor. The ICA was probably the dirtiest, it took some time to get it spotless clean. The MAP was the biggest pita and I had to remove the valve cover to get it back in place. I also cleaned and lubed up my air filter. I then cleaned my throttle body until it was sportless. I noticed when I first crawled under the truck this afternoon I had a shock on my RHS in the rear completely disconnected. It has a pin to eye conversion on it and that is where it separated, no wonder it felt odd on that side. I fixed that too and luckily caught it in time before any damage took place. I also packed one of my knuckles with grease via the port on the knuckle housing. Pumped a ton of grease in it and ran out before I was done or got the other side. Reason for doing this is my knuckle balls are a little rusty and shouldn't be which leads me to think I don't have enough grease in the knuckle. So now I need some more grease for the grease gun and will pack them both the rest of the way. That is about all I did besides check some fluids and top off as needed.

When I finished at 2:30am I went to start the truck and fan was contacting my shroud badly. Horrible noise when trying to start the truck. So I simply bent the shroud back using some channel locks for the time being. After three tries bending it I was able to start the truck without contact on the shroud. The problem with this is motor mounts are welded and installed like total crap in the truck. I realize whomever did this years ago was after lining up the t-case output to the diffs but they did a horrible job not only because the mounts have booger wleds but also because there is binding going on between the motor mounts and the x-member mounts. The new motor mounts aligned things differently then the old shot motor mounts. Hence my probs with the shroud. So a new shroud is now on the top of my list, that or I am going to just toss a Taurus fan in it for $200.

Took the truck for a drive after all was said and done. Man it runs killer, very smooth, throttle response is simply sweet. My idle was also boucning around a touch (few hundred rpms) and I had an idle dip coming to s top, that now seems to be gone after on test drive. I think cleaning the sensors made a big difference. Shifts real nice too with the fluid not low in the tranny. Not sure how long it will take though before it is low again and the t-case is to full. For now it rocks.

I got just a few crappy cell phone pictures.


Uhhh ohhh...

main.php


Old vs new

main.php


Good for me I am on top of checking plus working on my truck. The shock was undamaged but could have got trashed if left like that. The motor mounts while cracked and deformed were not busted in half or had any huge splits in them. So I pretty much got them replaced just in time. Today I am going to replace the fluid in my Ranger gear box, maybe pick up a couple tubes of grease and finish off the knuckles and maybe see what can be done about a shroud. I have a spare shroud from the FJ62 so that is a bonus. Oh yeah and clean the Cruiser plus clean the shop! :rolleyes:

:cheers:
 
Hey!

Is that a 62 steering wheel youve got on your 60? I hate the 3 little horn buttons on my 60 wheel since I manage to hit them every 5 seconds when wheeling. On the other hand when I need the horn I try to mash the middle and nothing happens.

D
 
I made some decisions today about not only this truck but a few other trucks I have too.

I am downsizing. The FJ62 is staying with me along with the FZJ80 chassis I got. However I am going to move the 84 FJ60, might take me a little while but I have dropped my price a lot. I have got something in Australia I really need to ship on over here, that is a big part of the reason I got rid of my Tacoma originally. It is also a big part of the reason to get rid of the FJ60. I am just a sucker for a cool truck!

I am also going to part out or sell outright this truck....

https://forum.ih8mud.com/chit-chat-section/483379-portal-patrol-other-japanese-4wd.html

There is a number of reasons for this; the economy and my worst years financially in 11/12, not really wanting a trailer queen anymore, needing to downsize on number of trucks I own (I have 4 that are basically projects/toys), wanting just one truck to do it all and not wanting to sink more money in multiple trucks. I may keep the portal axles under the Patrol and put them under the new Cruiser. However, my buddy thinks that may be pretty difficult with lots of problems, I am unsure at this time. He also thinks I can get a decent number for the axles if I sell them, I am skeptical. I would love to put them under the next Cruiser however am not sure that will happen, if somebody wants to buy the axles for the right price I suppose I will sell them! In the meantime I am going to play with the tape measure. Already checked the portals and they are 66" wide compared to 63" of the 80-series.

At this point I just want one really nice truck for what I like to do. I have kind of lost the desire to rock crawl or trailer a truck long distances a few times a year. So my plans are FJ62 body, dash and the power window stuff yet FJ60 head lights and grill. FZJ80 frame and some if not all of the suspension. Axles will be the portals or some really nice Toyota base axles or the stock 80-series with a bunch of bling. Engine will the be a Nissan SD33T seen in the link above that is highly modified. Tranny will be NV4500, I already have an adapter kit to do the mating to the engine. T-case will be FJ60 split case or an Atlas. Tires will be 35s, maybe 37's if I went with the portal axles. It will certainly be a bastard of a truck! However, the diesel engine is brand new and is so modified it doesn't really matter if it is Nissan or what I put it in, the point is it is a super nice engine for any truck. I will have plenty of power, very simple motor, water proof engine and better mileage than a v8. Range should also be better. The goal is a long distance Latin America runner that can do everything from Moab or the Rubicon to knee deep mud in the jungle and live out of it at the same time for months on end. Between selling the FJ60 and selling or parting out my Patrol it will fund a lot of this project plus help with other things in life. Clean up my yard & storage being just one of them!

I am also going to buy a dirt cheap great gas mileage valley runner. Likely a Subaru. I been eye balling a Subaru sitting here on the property for a while. This will be my around town car once I am down to one project.
 
You've got a lot on your mind! Best wishes to you man. I enjoyed this build. Looking forward to your next one! :)
 
You've got a lot on your mind! Best wishes to you man. I enjoyed this build. Looking forward to your next one! :)

Thanks man....

I am going to keep doing little things to the Cruiser till it is gone. That is just how I roll!

Tomorrow dropping fuel tank, extend float arm and fix wiring for gauge. Start building my shroud out of cardboard too then decide best way to fab it up.

:cheers:
 
One of my favorite wagons. Would love to build on like this one day. I've been without my silver wagon for 4 years and miss that pile of crap all the time.

This silver wagon is from Colorado.....iirc it spent time in Colorado Springs.
 
Got a fan shroud template made out of cardboard over the weekend. It came out nice, I test fitted it and I think it is going to work well. Now to make it out of steel which should happen this week. I did some other stuff too like got the drivers door handle working well. The rest is not really worth mentioning......
 
I bet, I loved this rig. Remember seeing it up in Jackson a few years back... Maybe parked out in front of Orvis?

Anyhow, If I were up there I'd buy a few rounds.

J

Perhaps, my CPA's office is right by there. Look me up next time you are in Jackson, I am all about a few rounds!

Cheers
 
I have read a fair amount lately here on the forum about fitting 35's SuA and it being a problem. Well look at this thread to see a SuA 60 with 35's and zero issues. No rub whatsoever, front or back at full stuff or full lock. Granted I was running the kind of lame MAF shackle reversal kit to do it but really the SR kit didn't mess with anything besides front clearance/approach angle. 3.65 backspacing on the wheels was perfect. I did do a Marlin high steer kit and probably didn't need to, plus drag link at max stuff just barely touched the frame rail on the RHS. But what the high steer kit did do is make the drag link nearly perfectly level which means no bump steer and better handling than one at an angle. The Cruiser flexed like beast, nice and low keeping it stable unlike a lot of SoA trucks and due to my tire/wheel combo the track width was perfect, not to narrow and not to wide. Down the HWY the Cruiser handled better than any other leaf spring truck I have ever driven. Zero wobble, zero bump steer, tracked straight and beautiful, no wander or grabbing ruts in the asphalt and zero vibes in the drivelines even at 70mph in 4wd on dry pavement. I will be looking to get the same kind of results on another truck with leaves I am currently working on.

So it can fully be done, without rub or other issues like scrub on tres. You can get nearly as much flex from a SuA as a SoA and it can drive like a total dream. Several times friends would say to me off-road, man this truck feels like a Cadillac in the dirt.

I know the pics are gone but if anybody wants specific pics of how it was all set up I can upload/post them again.

Cheers
 
Yeah if you could post some pics back up that would be cool. If you did it all over again would you do anything different suspension wise?
 
I've ran 35s on normal OME heavy and a hair of shackle lift. 3.75bs, 15x8 rim.
I have about 6 years of dd and trail duty on that simple setup, and it's only been a few minor rubs.
And oh, the heavy OME does not stuff in that much.
 
Ok so I will do a short re-fresh on what was done to the Cruiser with pics so people don't have to read back.

When I got the Cruiser is had 35's on it on a wide (10") wheel. It also had old unknown leaf springs that were "W" shaped. It also had OME shocks and steering dampener. It had sway bar extension and brake line extensions iirc. The bumps had not been dropped. The truck sat low for 35's. The leaves were shot. It rubbed when I flexed it up and it scrubbed up front too. One day coming home I sliced a sidewall in the rear from rubbing on inner wheel well, it sliced it so bad the tire was done. I decided to start the road to fixing all this with the MAF shackle reversal kit and some new OME leaves. I went heavies in the rear and mediums in front.

MAF kit installed
front end18.webp


Back on it's wheels
front end19.webp


Ok so it was better but one major problem, under flex the front driveline would fall out at the slip yoke. On top of this I still had the wrong wheels and my caster was pretty far out, I didn't use the shims in the MAF kit, I don't like shims. So it was decided to cut and turn the front axle, set pinion angle where we wanted and caster too. I already had a DC front shaft in the Cruiser.

hacked it all off
c&t6.webp


I think it was a 1.5" drop on the bump to start, don't recall exactly. I used a RuffStuff FJ60 front SoA perch kit but modified it to be used SuA.
c&t5.webp
front end20.webp
 
I used the common Ford shock tower but modified it to suit my application. If I recall right I went with the 12" 5150 Bilsteins.

front end21.webp


Back on it's wheels

front end22.webp


I then decided to put in the Marlin high steer kit and drop the bumps a bit more, bumps were not low enough and I had rub at full stuff. I also had bump steer at this point and wobble at speed. IIRC it was a 3" drop on the bump. I also put in a new pitman arm and the tre's I recall being FJ80, all stuff I got from Marlin.

front end23.webp

front end24.webp
front end26.webp
 
You can see the suspension works great. The rear was a bit stiff with the heavies and not much gear in the back but it still stuffed a tire alright.

flex test4.webp

flex test7.webp

flex test3.webp


Here was the only issue, high steer kit touch frame rail at max stuff. Dropping the bump a little would cure this or my preferred method would be to notch the frame here. You could do all this without the high steer kit but I found the drag link to be at to steep an angle causing bump steer. The high steer kit solved that prob.

front end13.webp


In the rear with the right BS'ed wheel I no longer had issues with rub on the inner wheel well.

flex test8.webp
 
I still had the wrong wheels and the MTRs were a bit wide but that was the next purchase once I had the front end and suspension finished.

I did a custom install on the steering dampener using and Icon and I re-installed the front sway bar.

Before
front end25.webp

Real close to scrubbing with this wheel tire combo but I did clear the tre's

front end27.webp


Icon in using a custom mount

front end28.webp

Sway bar required a little work (welding) to re-install

front end30.webp


and all done.

front end29.webp
 
For wheels and tires, I had some Maxxis Creepies sitting around at about 95% tread in 35x12.5R16. So I bought some Mickey Thompson Classics in black, 16" with a 3.65" bs, they were either 7.5 or 8" wide, unfortunately I think this wheel is not made anymore. The tires a bit aggressive for daily use but hey I had them laying around. I felt the stance was perfect.

stance3.webp

stance2.webp

stance.webp

greys17.webp


Next to a buddies 4-Runner on 35's

greys7.webp
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom