Good call on that. Those turns will be right with that tire back there. I have a bike rack mounted to my trailer jack which I would need to move or make higher so the wheel won’t make contact. When do you think you will receive yours?
RLC rear tire carrier / swing out / jerry can / custom fab bumper (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Willy beamin
- Start date
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We were discussing shipping this morning, so probably end of the month. I need to paint it before installing so it'll likely be late April before I get to install it.
My trailer is an hour away so I'll need to go out there to test the dimensions but I'm hoping the tire sits just to the side of the jack and hence will clear it ok. If it's off by <3" I think I can rotate the jack 90 degrees to accommodate. If I needed a couple extra inches I could get a longer shank (or maybe an extension) for my weight distributing hitch since the drop shank I use right now pulls the hitch ball in fairly close to the vehicle. I know @TeCKis300 will scold me if I lengthen the hitch but ya gotta do what ya gotta do. Anything more than maybe 5-6" extra clearance will be trouble though
Posted this in the SQoD thread as I couldn't get one of the Toyota connectors apart. Finished up my wiring harness for the lights today. I used DT connectors everywhere except where the connector for the trailer wiring harness goes. Rather than directly tap the existing wiring there I bought new connectors and created a ~10" extension but tied my new harness into one side of the connectors. This way if something gets screwed up it's easy to remove. Props to @indycole for his wiring diagram, which was the basis for my setup (except he tapped the trailer and lights whereas I built an extension/splitter and am using the Curt 2-3 adapter.
If anyone else wants to replicate what I did for the pigtail splitter/extension the parts are below for posterity. The rest are just 4 and 6 way DT connectors
If anyone else wants to replicate what I did for the pigtail splitter/extension the parts are below for posterity. The rest are just 4 and 6 way DT connectors
Where did you order the connectors from?
Thanks that’s good to know. I assume you mean where the pigtail meets the housing and not where the pigtail has the round 5-wire connection
The Toyota connectors I ordered from Earnhardt Toyota but those two part numbers are available anywhere
The pins I ordered from bmotorsports.com
The DT connector kits came off Amazon. I think they’re all 4 and 6 pin connectors but I’ll maybe clean up my scribbles and post a diagram for everyone if it’s helpful
Ok here's the schematic. Please reply if anyone has questions. I tried to note the approximate lengths I made for each section of the harness... I thought a bit too long is better than too short in this case, but don't accept those lengths as necessarily perfect. My intention is to put the Curt 2-3 adapter inside the vehicle where the jack goes since I'm not sure it's completely waterproof, but if someone else knows otherwise please shout.
All wire is 20ga TXL I bought from wirebarn.com, except the white ground wire which is 16ga from the 5-pin OEM harness split to the DT6 connector. Everything is wrapped in techflex wire loom to resist abrasion and any exposed wire ends as well as the techflex ends either use a bit of heat shrink or some 3M Super88 tape (or both) to protect and secure.
Parts list is above in this thread. In addition to the above parts the diagram below requires the Curt 2-3 adapter (NOT the 3-2 adapter!), 3 sets of DT6 connectors and 2 or 3 sets of DT2 connectors (I only drew 2 but you may want to use a DT2 to allow for easy separation of the "Green - 1" and "Yellow - 3" wires which come off the OEM Y splitter and connect to the DT6. Plus the wire I listed above (I bought a 10 pack of 20' lengths in assorted colors).
Close ups of connectors below as well.
View attachment 2955740
OEM Y splitter/extension. Note that although I drew it as splices in the schematic, I actually built it as a Y where there are 2 wires in each pin in the connector on the right. I used 3M Super88 tape to wrap the harness as the rubber wire grommets are really only for single wire weatherproofing and with 2 wires coming out of them I was concerned it wouldn't be water tight. Super88 is pretty sticky and holds up well to water, but even still I'll add a zip tie over the ends and likely slip this section inside a split wire loom to help ensure it doesn't unravel.
The above wire goes to this Curt 2-3 adapter below, which converts the turn+brake light signal from the trailer plug to separate turn signs and brake lights. If you don't use this you'll end up with your turn signals lighting up along with your brake lights unless you tap the brake lights separately off the vehicle housing. The adapter is about $20 and makes this a cleaner installation which does not require any taps (my preference).
I'm planning to mount my Curt 2-3 in the jack compartment, so in the harness below the right side Roadvision wiring is shorter than the left side. If you put your 2-3 adapter somewhere else you should adjust the wire lengths accordingly.
For the lights themselves I just added DT6 connectors to the ends of the harness. I'm hearing I should probably heat shrink and/or 3M Super88 wrap those round connectors. I could have cut them off and put the DT6 connectors closer to the lights, but I wanted to keep them as factory as possible so if I have issues with these lights in the future I can easily remove/replace and send them back unmolested.
Note the lights only use 5 pins so for pin 6 I added an unused wire and just cut it short and left it unattached. That way the DT6 connector is still waterproof.
All wire is 20ga TXL I bought from wirebarn.com, except the white ground wire which is 16ga from the 5-pin OEM harness split to the DT6 connector. Everything is wrapped in techflex wire loom to resist abrasion and any exposed wire ends as well as the techflex ends either use a bit of heat shrink or some 3M Super88 tape (or both) to protect and secure.
Parts list is above in this thread. In addition to the above parts the diagram below requires the Curt 2-3 adapter (NOT the 3-2 adapter!), 3 sets of DT6 connectors and 2 or 3 sets of DT2 connectors (I only drew 2 but you may want to use a DT2 to allow for easy separation of the "Green - 1" and "Yellow - 3" wires which come off the OEM Y splitter and connect to the DT6. Plus the wire I listed above (I bought a 10 pack of 20' lengths in assorted colors).
Close ups of connectors below as well.
View attachment 2955740
OEM Y splitter/extension. Note that although I drew it as splices in the schematic, I actually built it as a Y where there are 2 wires in each pin in the connector on the right. I used 3M Super88 tape to wrap the harness as the rubber wire grommets are really only for single wire weatherproofing and with 2 wires coming out of them I was concerned it wouldn't be water tight. Super88 is pretty sticky and holds up well to water, but even still I'll add a zip tie over the ends and likely slip this section inside a split wire loom to help ensure it doesn't unravel.
The above wire goes to this Curt 2-3 adapter below, which converts the turn+brake light signal from the trailer plug to separate turn signs and brake lights. If you don't use this you'll end up with your turn signals lighting up along with your brake lights unless you tap the brake lights separately off the vehicle housing. The adapter is about $20 and makes this a cleaner installation which does not require any taps (my preference).
I'm planning to mount my Curt 2-3 in the jack compartment, so in the harness below the right side Roadvision wiring is shorter than the left side. If you put your 2-3 adapter somewhere else you should adjust the wire lengths accordingly.
For the lights themselves I just added DT6 connectors to the ends of the harness. I'm hearing I should probably heat shrink and/or 3M Super88 wrap those round connectors. I could have cut them off and put the DT6 connectors closer to the lights, but I wanted to keep them as factory as possible so if I have issues with these lights in the future I can easily remove/replace and send them back unmolested.
Note the lights only use 5 pins so for pin 6 I added an unused wire and just cut it short and left it unattached. That way the DT6 connector is still waterproof.
For the lights, the connectors used will go into factory harness instead of tapping?
When you say "for the lights" I'm not sure which side you mean, but either way there's no tapping involved in the above.
- At the lights they come with a 5-wire pigtail that's pre-stripped and ready to use with a DT connector
- At the 7-pin trailer plug side under the truck (which I assume is what you mean) you unplug the 5-pin connector but leave the 2-pin connector. You insert the harness between the vehicle and the 5-pin trailer connector. It's plug and play, no splicing of the vehicle wiring required. The two Toyota connectors in my list are there so you can create that little extension and either side of the extension you crimp a second set of wires for the lights to use.
Bumper arrived yesterday, overnight. Man that was fast.
Two things I noticed right away when unpacking
Two things I noticed right away when unpacking
- There's an odd number of supports - in particular there are 4 steel and 3 aluminum brackets included. Is that correct? I'd just assumed it would be an even number. See photo below with the extra one middle left. I guess I need to re-read the thread because these parts seem pretty light so I'm assuming they're not structural
- The parking sensor grommet holes seem to be bigger than the size of the grommets on my 2013. Is there a different parking sensor grommet part # that I need to order for these? Mine seem quite small in comparison.
The two aluminum 45 deg are bumper wing fills, they go at the end of the wings facing the tire. the thin bits are the part that attach to the bumper.
the 1/2 channel aluminum is the license plate support
The C shaped steel are the rear supports (attach to the tie down and thru the bumper body with a giant bolt).
The remaining two are the mix and match wing brackets.
the 1/2 channel aluminum is the license plate support
The C shaped steel are the rear supports (attach to the tie down and thru the bumper body with a giant bolt).
The remaining two are the mix and match wing brackets.
Awesome thanks, the license plate bracket is what I was confused by (and had forgotten about)!
For sure, I should say the C shape attach to the hitch member and tie down, not bumper and tie down
teejnut
SILVER Star
I reused the rounded fittings and the stock sleeve. I replaced the cable and used simple hammer splice/eye things (not sure what the rigging term is for these) to make the two loops and set the overall length. They were in the rigging store next to the bulk cable. Have two holes in them. You put the cable thru, make the loop and put it back thru, and pound it tight.
I ended up tossing the stock cables in my parts bin and make fresh ones with some swages and cable.
On a separate note, I have been toying with the idea of swapping my single can holder for a double. Has anyone else tried this on a single swingout? I know someone ran two singles.
teejnut
SILVER Star
Thanks for the replies and pics. Looks like using a simple compression sleeve with a loop works. I wasn't sure if that would work since the oem ones use a eye end. I was thinking about getting this swagless eye ends. 1/8" - https://www.e-rigging.com/_p_6046.html
Do you have to shorten the tailgate cables to fit the bumper? I must've missed that part of the installation instructions in this thread.
Getting ready to paint my bumper... install planned for a couple weeks out when I have the spare time
