RLC rear tire carrier / swing out / jerry can / custom fab bumper

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grinchy said:
The flat on the bumper below the tailgate is horizontal. The wings have a bit of downslope from the wheel well to hitch (reverse slope).

It is easy to replace the wire supports for the tailgate. If I recall it is two bolts per side.

I do have a drawer and it pulls all the way out, but it's certainly close!
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I am going to look into the wires, for sure if I can shorten a bit I can raise that end and remove the droop from front to back of the bumper

Cheers and thanks!
 
20220108_154407.jpg



anyone know where i can purchase these?
 
xhrix123 said:
I would just call or email James I am sure he will get you sorted.
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I've given up trying to reach him. He ghosted me and hasn't replied to any of my emails. I'm going to be selling this bumper soon.
 
I had to buy a new one. My daughter slammed it open and broke off the end. I’ll go look for a receipt.
 
Willy beamin said:
Hello,

I've been asked by a few to get some information on here about the bumper I had made for my rig.
James (owner of) RLC welding and Fabrication here in Louisville KY made it for me.
This package includes 22 grade 8 bolts, four brackets, one bumper, one swing out, one jerry can holder,
one lic plate holder, and latches:

* The bumper its self is made of (3/16") - ?
* The brackets are made of 1/4"
* The bumper has one swing out w/ rubber bumper to keep it from marring your tail gate when its down, should it swing back into your tail gate
* One removable Jerry can holder
* Lic plate holder / relo
* On the back of the tire hold is an elevated base plate for CB ant / or another rear light system
* Grease fitting on the swing out axel / spindle
* Cut out for the rigid cubes
* One toggle latch along with a secondary back up screw in hand bolt to hold the swing arm in should the toggle jar loose.
* End caps for the wheel well as to keep the inside of your bumper wings debris free
* Clevis's for recovery
* Utilization of the factory tow hitch
* The bumper itself weighs under 100 lbs / 120 lbs with the swing out on and about 200+lbs with a Nitto trail grappler 35x12.5x17 mounted.

I asked James to keep this as high and tight as possible without cutting on the frame.

The powder coating was done by another company here in town. If you ordered this set up from James then you would receive the raw bumper to do with as you please. You'll be the one cutting your stock plastics.

The install was a breeze.

James had my rig for 6 days from 8:30 am -4:30 pm and he has this in CAD now, has a jig made so this is repeatable and you can customize for your needs as they may be different from mine.

If I left out something you'd like to know please ask and if I don't know the answer I'll get you one.
Thanks

Enjoy the picture show!
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Thanks for the detailed write up, James just finished one for me and will be shipping it out this comming week.
Question for you, what modifications did you have to do to get the 35 in Nittos to fit, do they rub under maximum articulation?
 
LX ORD PRO said:
Thanks for the detailed write up, James just finished one for me and will be shipping it out this comming week.
Question for you, what modifications did you have to do to get the 35 in Nittos to fit, do they rub under maximum articulation?
Click to expand...
DM me and I'll elaborate - thnx and enjoy your new bumper!
 
Pulled the trigger. Got one on the way. James has been awesome about all my little modifications (single latch, equal length arms so as not to hit my trailer hitch, wider trailer hitch opening, etc). I only wish he had a PC guy but I’m thinking about doing POR15 like my front bumper as PC seems to rust after a few years anyway

1647392857984.jpeg
 
Suggest he drill a 2 1/8” hole for a trailer plug socket. Also suggest you have him round over/radius the shackle holes for compatibility with soft shackles. Are you getting the road vision three way lights? If not so consider them. Having him do the cutout is way easier.
 
linuxgod said:
Pulled the trigger. Got one on the way. James has been awesome about all my little modifications (single latch, equal length arms so as not to hit my trailer hitch, wider trailer hitch opening, etc). I only wish he had a PC guy but I’m thinking about doing POR15 like my front bumper as PC seems to rust after a few years anyway

View attachment 2953466
Click to expand...
What’s the expected delivery time. Curios rise this on your rig. I too have wondered about the bumper while pulling a trailer.
 
grinchy said:
Suggest he drill a 2 1/8” hole for a trailer plug socket. Also suggest you have him round over/radius the shackle holes for compatibility with soft shackles. Are you getting the road vision three way lights? If not so consider them. Having him do the cutout is way easier.
Click to expand...
Yep James cut out holes for the roadvision lights. I bought the Curt 2-3 adapter and a bunch of DT connectors and spent some time this week building a wiring harness. I also bought the 5-pin OEM Toyota trailer wiring adapter as my hope is to make the harness truly plug-and-play (as opposed to splicing). Not quite done with that but it's close.

I'll ask him about rounding out the recovery points. Since it's shipping bare metal I could always file/grind them down before painting.

James was going to provide a bracket for me to mount the trailer plug to the bumper or tire swing arm. I'd be ok with him drilling a hole but if you look at the pic above the question is where will it fit (given the crossmember clearance behind the bumper)?

Separate question - what have folks done about painting? The cheapest PC job I found around here is ~$400. The PC on my front bumper and sliders only lasted a few years. I'm thinking about doing metal prep and then POR15 on the bumper as that stuff is really hard and has so far held up well on my front bumper (after repainting last fall) but it'll be a slow job to prep, paint, and top coat.
 
duncancsu said:
What’s the expected delivery time. Curios rise this on your rig. I too have wondered about the bumper while pulling a trailer.
Click to expand...

It depends on what he has in his queue. We spent a month or so going back and forth on the design as I needed some modifications for mine to fit with my trailer, but from order time to the pic you see above was about 4 weeks.

We'll see how everything fits with my trailer attached. I think it's going to be tight, even with changing out the arms to be equal length, as the tire hangs a foot off the bumper but I have maybe 16" of clearance from my receiver to the front of the jack right now. The tire will sit to the side so it should clear but I'll see how close it comes when turning sharply. I might rotate the jack backwards and/or move the propane cylinders closer to the trailer box, if need be.

1647437597334.png


1647437608277.png
 
kwelhand said:
What's the price of that rear bumper... looks great!
Click to expand...

Final # is TBD. The normal bumper is $1600 plus shipping. It's a bit more for the second swingout. Seems like in the end it'll be about half of Slee or Dissent
 
linuxgod said:
I'll ask him about rounding out the recovery points. Since it's shipping bare metal I could always file/grind them down before painting.

James was going to provide a bracket for me to mount the trailer plug to the bumper or tire swing arm. I'd be ok with him drilling a hole but if you look at the pic above the question is where will it fit (given the crossmember clearance behind the bumper)?
Click to expand...
I tried to round mine with files, a dremel etc. I was not very successful. If he has the tools (air driven die grinder of the right radius perhaps?) my suggestion is to have it done in fab.

Spacing is an issue. I recently drilled a hold in my RLC, and did have to put in 3/4" of spacer to clear the wires. If you can get a bracket for the arm that is probably better.

For coating definitely an aggressive primer, I used a one step and this fall I’ll probably have to sand and repaint the entire bumper ((four years)

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BAB84521-E8E5-4E95-A05C-5783AC6157E9.jpeg
 
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