RLC rear tire carrier / swing out / jerry can / custom fab bumper
- Thread starter Willy beamin
- Start date
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If it weren’t for me using the rear so much, as well as having kids use it for third row access, I would love it.
Markuson
SILVER Star
I timed how many extra seconds are added by opening my two Slee swingouts (without hurrying) accessing my rear cargo area.
It adds 11 seconds to getting in... about the same to close. Even less if in a hurry or using both hands. Still...it is slightly more of a pain...but an Aspirin-level pain. No Vicodin needed.
The time I find it annoying is when I close it up...only to realize I forgot something and immediately have to open/close again.
Side benefits:
One obscure benefit is...added security!
If I back up to my garage...night thieves CANNOT access the rear, and drawers become a time-consuming prospect for theft requiring g removing many hex screws.
In a parking lot...backing in does the same thing. -Unless the thief is can swing them open before defeating your locks...your drawers (and my tail-Gate lock-up solution) are even more secure.
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I timed how many extra additional seconds are added by my two Slee swingouts (without hurrying) accessing my rear cargo area.
It adds 11 seconds to getting in... about the same to close. Even less if in a hurry. Still...it is more of a pain...but an Aspirin-level pain. No Vicodin needed.
The time I find it annoying is when I close it up...only to realize I forgot something and immediately have to open/close again.
Side benefits:
One obscure benefit is...added security!
If I back up to my garage...night thieves CANNOT access the rear, and drawers become a time-consuming prospect for theft.
In a parking lot...backing in does the same thing. -Unless the thief can open them...your drawers (and my tail-Gate lock-up solution) is even more secure.
I agree completely. It’s definitely more of an inconvenience. Especially when I have to wait for the kid to get in. Then close everything up. Also, I can’t just open the back and let him out any more remotely, I have to get out of the car.
Mainly this scenario presents itself when picking up and letting off at school. Also, he’s the oldest of 4, so this trend won’t be going away any time soon.
Back on topic, how is your bumper aligned on the rear? I’ve adjusted and re adjusted lots of times.
From the foremost of the bumper wing to the plastic trim line I have right at 4”. And from the front corner of the tail light down I have close to 9”.
I’m thinking it should be a little more to allow clearance of the Jerry can holder and tail gate to fold down. Picture for reference.
From the foremost of the bumper wing to the plastic trim line I have right at 4”. And from the front corner of the tail light down I have close to 9”.
I’m thinking it should be a little more to allow clearance of the Jerry can holder and tail gate to fold down. Picture for reference.
a couple of quick questions. I'd never assembled a swingout before just want to make sure i get it all correct.
1) How tight do you tighten the castle nut on top? just tight enough to expose the hole for the cotter pin?
2) I have the hole and little brass fitting for grease. What type of grease, and how much do i put in there?
Do i only add grease after its assembled, or should I lube the bearings when i'm putting together?
Installing my bumper next week, so just trying to work out the little things prior to than
1) How tight do you tighten the castle nut on top? just tight enough to expose the hole for the cotter pin?
2) I have the hole and little brass fitting for grease. What type of grease, and how much do i put in there?
Do i only add grease after its assembled, or should I lube the bearings when i'm putting together?
Installing my bumper next week, so just trying to work out the little things prior to than
RET2
SILVER Star
A couple of answers from my perspective.
1. Tight enough that you have no up and down play ( with the swingout loaded, tire fuel etc)
2. Pretty much whatever you have in your grease gun
3. I packed my bearing pre install otherwise it's going to take half a tube to get the grease down where it's useful and needed
Just what I did and it hasn't fallen off yet. I'm sure there are other more detailed opinions. Note: It's not rocket science.
1. Tight enough that you have no up and down play ( with the swingout loaded, tire fuel etc)
2. Pretty much whatever you have in your grease gun
3. I packed my bearing pre install otherwise it's going to take half a tube to get the grease down where it's useful and needed
Just what I did and it hasn't fallen off yet. I'm sure there are other more detailed opinions. Note: It's not rocket science.
+1 for prepack
I haven’t made time to pull my measurements, but I put it as high as I could, and then shortened the tailgate wires to match
I haven’t made time to pull my measurements, but I put it as high as I could, and then shortened the tailgate wires to match
RET2
SILVER Star
This because if you don't go high, the first time you drag it over a rock the rock will move it up for you. It might be a bit embarrassing to me to ask how I know this fact.
I do that 3 times a night. Now, park your truck in a garage where you can't swing open the tire carrier without opening the garage door. Do that 3 times in a row. It gets more than annoying, it's a maddening deal breaker.
I bought all the stuff the other day to make another set of tailgate cables, need to give it a try now. One more project...
Markuson
SILVER Star
RET2
SILVER Star
Not to glib but First World problem?
does anybody have the part number for these 2 things:
1) the plastic clips that hold the trim on in the tailgate. want to have extra's assuming these will break when i pull the trim for the backup camera.
2) the parking sensor outer plastic grommets. again, want to have extra's assuming i break these
1) the plastic clips that hold the trim on in the tailgate. want to have extra's assuming these will break when i pull the trim for the backup camera.
2) the parking sensor outer plastic grommets. again, want to have extra's assuming i break these
I don't have the part numbers, but make sure to use a proper trim removal tool on the interior trim removal. The clips should survive.
The parking sensors come out with a twist and the surrounds pop out pretty easy. The potential breakage time (at least it was for me) is installing in the new bumper.
cool, any recommendations on proper trim removal tool?
Any "trim removal tool" on Amazon will work
RET2
SILVER Star
Or one from Harbor Freight. It's those little white clips that will drive you crazy.
i just ordered this trim removal kit:
Amazon product ASIN B07LG3YZ5P
and these extra clips....not sure if the specific white ones are in this kit:
Amazon product ASIN B01HU057CS
Amazon product ASIN B07LG3YZ5P
and these extra clips....not sure if the specific white ones are in this kit:
Amazon product ASIN B01HU057CS
This is a link to the max coupler extension
RET2
SILVER Star
There are some very small white clips that hold the upper surround trim on that can be an issue. If I can find my extras I'll take a pic, there are 3 on each side I believe.
