Ring and pinion Setup Help! (1 Viewer)

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My setup...1986 FJ60, stock differential carrier front and back. Plan to install Yukon 4.88 Gears front and back, auusie locker in the front and powertrax locker in the back.

Problem...

It appears that the Yukon gear (ring gear) is thicker than stock...thus the teeth on the ring gear apparenlty interfer with installing the crosspin (for the c-clips).

Is there a known solution to this...I know many people have run 4.88 gears and lower...

I bought the gears from Marlin and have emailed them and waiting to hear back (which hopefully will happen tomorrow).

What proven solutions are there? Different carrer housing? modify the ring gear (seems to be just wrong)? Mill a small flat spot on the crosspin to allow for install, is there a custom crosspin required? Don't know, but would a different third member solve this? Is this an issue with Yukon gears ...4.88?

Looking for ideas or proven solutions...see two pics. My friend is helping me, so just and FYI I'm not super knowledgable in this area.

Any help / advice would be appreciated.:bang:
Photo018.jpg
Photo019.jpg
 
Just do a mild grind job on the tooth that is blocking the pin from going back in. This is totally acceptable and is common. Remove the absolute minimum of the tooth. If I remember correctly there was even a picture in the install manual that came with my Yukon gears, also 4.88's. And this is generally an issue with all low gears which are always thicker, probably has to do with the machining angles etc.

A search on differential gear installs will show this solution on numerous sites.

Front axle is not a problem, just trap the pin that you don't have to remove anyway.

Tony
 
thanks...

I've been web surfing...saw some reference to a "notched hardened crosspin" but have not found a source or specific details.

Apparently a common issue....I was not aware and assumed a bolt in type job (other than the setup routine).
 
thanks...

I've been web surfing...saw some reference to a "notched hardened crosspin" but have not found a source or specific details.

Apparently a common issue....I was not aware and assumed a bolt in type job (other than the setup routine).

Just follow the set up in the FSM and its not that hard. Hard part is reading the tooth pattern once it's all back togther. And ask ten guys about the proper tooth pattern and you will get ten different answers.

If you didn't get the install booklet with the gears go on the Yukon/Randy's Ring and Pinion site and get it as it does have a lot of helpful advice concerning reading the tooth pattern.

Tony
 
Elbert, here's a picture of mine...

You have to grind the teeth on the ring gear a little bit. I oriented mine on the housing so I only had to take off a little bit. Use a die grinder and go slow. I polished it up with a little flapper wheel after the heavy work was done.
ground_ring_gear.JPG
 
Elbert, here's a picture of mine...

You have to grind the teeth on the ring gear a little bit. I oriented mine on the housing so I only had to take off a little bit. Use a die grinder and go slow. I polished it up with a little flapper wheel after the heavy work was done.

Ok... man I hate to have to grind on the ring gear.... apparently that's the only solution. I've seen reference to notched hardned cross pins (on my web serach this afternoon) but mostly referring to other makes of vehicles.

Is it correct to assume that no-one make a notched hardned cross pin for this application, or that no-one offier a diff career that solves this issue?
 
In the research I did when I put mine together I read in a few spots that you don't want to notch the cross pin or mill a flat on it or anything......

Grind the teeth... don't worry, be happy...
 
In the research I did when I put mine together I read in a few spots that you don't want to notch the cross pin or mill a flat on it or anything......

Grind the teeth... don't worry, be happy...

yeah, that appears to be our path forward this afternoon.
 
If another carrier afforded the room to slide the pin in the teeth wouldn't mesh correctly.

Scary as it is, grind away! If you hold the pinion up to the ring you'll see that the portion of the contact area you're removing is relatively small.
 
Just follow the set up in the FSM and its not that hard. Hard part is reading the tooth pattern once it's all back togther. And ask ten guys about the proper tooth pattern and you will get ten different answers.

If you didn't get the install booklet with the gears go on the Yukon/Randy's Ring and Pinion site and get it as it does have a lot of helpful advice concerning reading the tooth pattern.

Tony

"we" are good on the install routine or I should say my friend is good on that part. The part that was troubling both him and I is the apparent fact that one needs to grind on a hardned gear set to make it work.

In other brands.....they offer differ carrier housings that solve these type issues. As I recall on my old z28..there was one carrier that was good up to 3.73 or so, and then you had to use another for 4.56 and higher ratio.

I'm not old school toyota so I got blindsided on this one.. I just hate the fact that you "gotta grind" on the gear, but I guess we learned a little bit today.
 
The tooth contact area on a properly set up gear set won't be near the area you grind off. It doesn't matter.
 
Appreciate the feedback. Got a lot of replies...grind the ring gear... Marlin Crawler also confirmed.

On to new challenges.
 

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