Right front disc brake sticking?

[buckroseau]

Both disc brakes sticking? Brake Booster?

I was driving my 77 FJ40 home last night from work on the highway, doing about 60 mph. I started to notice that I was slowing down in 4th gear, as if I was loosing power, no matter how hard I depressed the accelerator? As I depressed the clutch to begin to make a left turn I really slowed down fast. I turned of the highway onto to the snow covered gravel road leading to my house and it couldn't pull itself in 3rd gear, I left it in 2nd.

When I pulled into the driveway I could smell something, I looked under the fender on the right side and could see smoke or steam coming off the right disc or in that area. I let my cruiser idle for about 5 minutes, came back out and everything was fine? I drove it over to a buddies house about 10 miles away, no problems, drove it home a few hours later fine, drove it work this morning, fine???

Now, I do want to say this same thing happend about 3 months ago, almost in the exact location and the same symptoms. Fixed itself then too after about 5 minutes of sitting, I guess I thought it was a fluke at that time, but now not so sure?

Has anyone else had this problem with brakes or something axle related? I guess I'm leaning towards brakes, but not sure.

Thanks, Matt

 

[beanz2]

Sounds like you need to rebuild the right front caliper. Do both sides and save trouble later down the line. Flush the brkae lines too, there may be moisture in it that make the calipers stick.

Dave

 

[Poser]

Save your time and money on the rebuild...


You can get loaded calipers for less than 100.00us each, lifetime warranty... Checker auto, and many others...

Only way to fly...


Good luck!


-Steve

 

[65swb45]

Save your time and money on the rebuild...


You can get loaded calipers for less than 100.00us each, lifetime warranty... Checker auto, and many others...

Only way to fly...


Good luck!


-Steve

WORD

Don't f-k around when it comes to brakes. DO IT NOW!

 

[woody]

crappy thing is, it may not be calipers at all....if your brake hoses are original, they can deteriorate inside and create this exact issue...the fact that it's one corner would lead me to the short hose behind the backing plate, ~$20 each.

If the hoses are cracked on the outside at all, replace all 4 of them (one at each front wheel, and one each from the frame to each axle)

 

[peesalot]

yup , brake hoses can look pristine on the outside and be swelled shut tight on the inside.

 

[buckroseau]

Brand new stainless steel as of 8 months ago. Also, all new brake lines through out the vehicle.

Do they make a rebuild kit for the calipers? Any suggestions?

Matt

 

[Poser]

Save your time and money on the rebuild...


You can get loaded calipers for less than 100.00us each, lifetime warranty... Checker auto, and many others...

Only way to fly...


Good luck!


-Steve

Miss this?

 

[Poser]

WORD

Don't f-k around when it comes to brakes. DO IT NOW!

Or.......this?

 

[Poser]

You have invested all this time and money in your truck, and you want to rebuild your calipers now…


You certainly can, Toyota does offer a seal kit for the calipers, but again, I would not waste my time, or money on this.


Good luck!


-Steve

 

[woody]

agreed...if something is wrong with the calipers and they are sticking, a rebuild kit isn't the answer.

AutoZone and most other autodroid stores carry them, PM cruiserdan for a Toy stock price too, you may be surprised.

 

[Texican]

Easy way to test whether it is the hose or the caliper, with it sticking, jack that tire up, crack the bleeder, if it frees then you have lines bad if not it is the caliper.......

 

[Pin_Head]

What is the matter with rebuilding calipers? The ones you get at autozone are rebuilt.

I have had good luck rebuilding Cruiser calipers and the kits are like $8 at NAPA. You clean them out, check the pistons for scoring and pitting, put the O ring seal in, lubricate the piston with brake lube, and then install the piston and dust boot.

Cruisers are a little harder than the average caliper though. They have multiple pistons and getting the dust boot in is one of the jobs that you need three hands for. The trick is to start the piston into the boot first, seat the boot in the caliper casting and then push the piston in. If you do it right, it should be as good as any other rebuilt caliper.

 

[Poser]

Thank you for making my point pin head...




-Steve

 

[woody]

the "scoring and pitting" got me every single time....was never worth the effort, too many Wisconsin winters on my parts piles....

 

[Pin_Head]

the "scoring and pitting" got me every single time.....

The ones I see have pitting in the casting, but that is inconsequential because they seal on the O ring. The pistons and seal surface never seem to have a problem. If you need new pistons, they are maybe another $10-20.

I worry more about generic rebuilt parts. The guy doing the job may have done a bunch of them, but they are typically not the brightest bulb in the pack. Who knows if he is having a bad day or if he cares about how they turn out.

 

[buckroseau]

Sorry Poser, I did miss that. I guess I saw Checker auto and it didn't register, we don't have those around these parts?

We do however have a Napa and a Carquest. On the way home this evening, it happened again. REALLY weird too, I'm not even depressing the brake, it just sort of starts easing itself on over a half mile or so. The more you try to drive forward, the worse it gets??? Pretty much have to drive it in 1st or 2nd to keep moving, luckly I have extremely close to home both times it has happened.

I drove it about 15 miles this afternoon around lunch, with absolutely no problems. But, on the way home tonight, pretty much in the exact same are, bermuda triangle maybe?

I will check tomorrow with Napa and carquest on new calipers.

Thanks, Matt

 

[buckroseau]

Still having problems

Ok, On Saturday I installed 2 brand new re-man brake calipers I got from Napa for $44 each, with a core exchange / no pads. I figured I would use my old ones since there 7 months old, I figured they would be fine.

Everything has been fine until tonight. I was coming home from a friends house, doing about 60 mph in 4th and I could see and feel myself slowing down no matter how hard I depressed the accelerator, not depressing the brake. I eventually had to shift into 3rd to maintain speed. This was all occuring over a 3 or 4 mile stretch. As I approached a stop sign and depressed the clutch I could really feel the brakes kick in, while I am not depressing the brakes. I got out and felt my rotors, both HOT, especially the right one and getting stinky. I was about 2 miles from home so I slowly drove it home in 2nd gear, that's the highest gear I could hold anyway.

When I got home in the garage I grabbed a flash light. On the right front inner wheel there was an oily substance slung ALL over the inside of the wheel, from the center out. My first thought was brake fluid. There was some on the frame so I grabbed a bottle of de-greaser and wiped everything off, knowing that brake fluid will eat paint. I took a look at the caliper to see where it was coming from, nothing. No fluid around the brake lines, bleeder or pistons. At this point I'm thinking, what the &%$!!!

I get on the phone to my mechanic buddy and explain the situation, at this point he is scratching his head over the phone as am I, then he has a possible explanation. He is aware of a problem I have had for several months now. In fact it's a problem I posted on this group a few months ago and order a gasket / seal kit from Cruiseroutfitters in Utah, but haven't had time to fix yet. I have leaking birfields. Not bad, I think. An occasional drop or 3 at night in the garage, sometimes none.

Anyway, he's thinking the gear oil is getting on the pads and causing this, as if the brakes are being applied when they are not. The gear oil is now getting so hot that is is getting thin enough to sling itself onto the inner wall of the tire, especially the right one?

I am hesitant to post this because I kinda feel like an idiot. Or that you may think that I am somewhat lax in my cruiser maintence duties and may not be worthy of owning a cruiser or have it taken away by some cruiser governing body??? I didn't mention the leaking birf's because I never thought the 2 could be related. I guess that's why I'm posting it, to see if anyone thinks that is possible or has had that problem before???

I'm a lot better at making things shinny, I guess that's why I have mechanics for friends and this group.

Thanks, Matt

 

[beanz2]

Hmm, another pie in the face for me and the others who misdiagnosed this one, huh? :whoops: One other explanation is a misadjusted booster rod or brake pedal clearance. Is there some play in the brake pedal? Check it against the FSM specs. If this checks out OK, remove the MC and see if the booster rod has the correct clearance for the MC.

In case you don't have the FSM:

http://download.birfield.com/manuals/Chassis-Body-1980-LowRes.pdf
p374 for free play pedal adjustment
p429 for booster rod adjustment

Dave

 

[buckroseau]

There is quite a bit of play in the pedal, I wouldn't say to much or to little, about right I guess. I don't know if it's to spec., I can check it though.

I was talking to my mechanic friend this morning again about it and the more he thought about the leaking birf's, the more he thinks that's what it is. He thinks with this extremely cold weather we have had in Northern Minnesota (-38 below yesterday) that the problem is now becoming more apparent. He's thinking the seals are shrinking a little in the cold and then when I start going down the road the gear oil heats up and loosens up and probably starts leaking more, onto the brakes.

Sounds plausable??? He said he see's it on vehicles on the rear axle brakes locking up because of faulty axle seals leaking onto the drum brakes, although he's never seen it happen on the front?

Anyone have any good links on how to rebuild those birf's. When I bought the rebuild kit from Cruiseroutfitters, Kirk or Kurt (sorry if I got your name wrong) emailed me a link, but can't find it now. The kit I bought from Cruiser outfitters was $87 bucks, I'm not sure if that included the inner axle seals though?

I think I will be starting that project tonight, along with my leaking intake exhaust manifold.

Thanks, Matt


Thanks, Matt