I like your choice of color versus the generic black...
Rigger's disc brake conversion
- Thread starter Rigger
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #62
Thanks. That is Rustoleum Hammered Finish Black. The pics make it look lighter than it really is. I used that on the rear bumper of my FJ62, and I had some left over, so I sprayed it on this axle.
Last night, I installed knuckle bearing races. Over the coming weekend, I am hoping to get the rest of the axle re-assembled. I'll see how it goes. Three day weekends are family time, too!
I am missing a few bits and pieces (nuts and bolts), so I posted up a note over in Parts Wanted.
- Thread starter
- #64
Spent a few hours in the garage this evening.
I installed the new wheel bearing races, packed all the wheel bearings with grease, and installed that seal that goes in behind the rotor. I also installed the Marlin inner axle seals. That seal installation tool they sell works great! Then, I packed the knuckle bearings, and installed both knuckles onto the axle housing, along with the wiper seals and felts.
I spent some more time going over what is coming up next, reading the manuals, studying and counting parts, and planning the next move. I'm going to try and get the axles in and the spindles and rotors on this weekend.
I have to get some more brake lines. I also need a whole new set of tie rod ends for this project. The ones I have are shot.
Poser gave me some pointers, and I want to acknowledge his help here. He is a great guy.
I installed the new wheel bearing races, packed all the wheel bearings with grease, and installed that seal that goes in behind the rotor. I also installed the Marlin inner axle seals. That seal installation tool they sell works great! Then, I packed the knuckle bearings, and installed both knuckles onto the axle housing, along with the wiper seals and felts.
I spent some more time going over what is coming up next, reading the manuals, studying and counting parts, and planning the next move. I'm going to try and get the axles in and the spindles and rotors on this weekend.
I have to get some more brake lines. I also need a whole new set of tie rod ends for this project. The ones I have are shot.
Poser gave me some pointers, and I want to acknowledge his help here. He is a great guy.
hey Rigger, looks like you are doing a nice job. This might help you when you go to put all of the brake lines on. You will be going from metric to standard threads on the lines for your Corvette master. If the tubing diameter is the same, you can slide the fitting down the tube and cut the line as close to the flair as possible with a tubing cutter. make sure to double flair the end of your brake line after placing the correct fitting on the line. A parts store like NAPA has bulk brake line in sticks and rolls, so there was really no need to buy used brake lines. They also have bins full of metric and standard compression fittings for your brake lines. if the line diameter will not allow you to go from metric to standard,you will have to use a brass fitting that is the compression type. These have the little cone in the bottom. Be sure to keep the twists in the brake lines from the master, as they absorb the vibrations, and keep the lines from snapping off at the master. I am planning to do the same disc brake conversion to my cruiser, so I will be checkin' in on your progress. Hope this helps some.
brass compression fittings on brakes?
Hi guy's, I'm just sharing here, All my life I've been told to never use anything on a brake system but steel and double flares for safety. I've never heard of brass compression fittings being used on brakes, right? Randall
Hi guy's, I'm just sharing here, All my life I've been told to never use anything on a brake system but steel and double flares for safety. I've never heard of brass compression fittings being used on brakes, right? Randall
- Thread starter
- #67
On the Corvette master cylinder, I am in "serious second thoughts" mode on it. I've never been a great decision maker anyway, but the feedback I am getting is not great and has me re-thinking this whole master cylinder thing. Has anyone tried the JT Outfitters adapter with a very flat booster and short length master cylinder?
On the brake lines, I nabbed a few junkyard lines that have the coils in them and I thought it'd be a savings to use them. They are clean and nearly new.
On brake system materials, I had not heard that one should only use steel in a brake system. That is one more thing that I had better read up on.
On brake line routing:
I drove my '40 around a bit on Saturday, and I had a chance to stick it in the garage and look at the potential new routing of lines. Frankly, I am not at all sure what to do.
Route to rear brakes: Currently, there is a fitting on the frame rail on the passenger side, directly below the firewall. I can run from the master cylinder, through the new proportioning valve, across the firewall and down to this existing fitting and have the rear brakes covered.
Route to front brakes: This path is less clear to me. Maybe this one should also run across the firewall and go down on the passenger side? Or should I drop down on the driver side? Hmmm.
My project, which I thought was going to take a couple of months, is growing in time!
On the brake lines, I nabbed a few junkyard lines that have the coils in them and I thought it'd be a savings to use them. They are clean and nearly new.
On brake system materials, I had not heard that one should only use steel in a brake system. That is one more thing that I had better read up on.
On brake line routing:
I drove my '40 around a bit on Saturday, and I had a chance to stick it in the garage and look at the potential new routing of lines. Frankly, I am not at all sure what to do.
Route to rear brakes: Currently, there is a fitting on the frame rail on the passenger side, directly below the firewall. I can run from the master cylinder, through the new proportioning valve, across the firewall and down to this existing fitting and have the rear brakes covered.
Route to front brakes: This path is less clear to me. Maybe this one should also run across the firewall and go down on the passenger side? Or should I drop down on the driver side? Hmmm.
My project, which I thought was going to take a couple of months, is growing in time!
First, as for the brass question, I have come across many brass brake components on different makes of vehicles. My wife's explorer has a brass block on the rear diff, where the flex line splits off. I was just looking at my cruiser, and on the bottom of the brake master are two switches that appear to be made of aluminium. So, with that being said, adapting with brass fittings would not be my first choice. I believe it is a safe and viable option if it comes to that. Second, don't panic bro. Brake line bending, routing, bleeding ect. is the easy part if you have made it this far.
- Thread starter
- #69
I was thinking that I'd mock up the lines with heavy wire before bending them with the tubing. In other words, make a wire pattern of sorts. I think I read it here on Mud that some folks have done that.
My problem is I'm kind of slow. But hey, I'm enjoying the ride!
- Thread starter
- #70
Man, I can't seem to make any progress here. I need to get crackin' !! And then, I, uh, had a, uh, little, uh, shall we say, uh, setback? I went to stab the axles in and discovered that I had
forgotten to (sshhhhh)
clearance the housing for the later style birfs!!
:whoops:
Guys, let's keep this one kinda quiet, huh?
***
I pulled one knuckle back off, ground the housing a bit, then slid the axle in and buttoned it back up. My son did the photography.
I'll do the other fix tomorrow.
forgotten to (sshhhhh)
clearance the housing for the later style birfs!!
:whoops:Guys, let's keep this one kinda quiet, huh?
***
I pulled one knuckle back off, ground the housing a bit, then slid the axle in and buttoned it back up. My son did the photography.
I'll do the other fix tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #71
I made a bit more progress; got the spindles and rotors on. I'm a bit stalled out at the moment. I have a few more things to consider.
I have to find a way to lift this axle down off the bench. I may have to borrow a hoist, or else recruit a few strong-armed friends.
I need some new tie rod ends, and I need the fastener sets (cone washer, lock washer, and acorn nut) that hold the Aisin lockout hubs on to the rotor.
So, I have a few more parts to round up.
I have to find a way to lift this axle down off the bench. I may have to borrow a hoist, or else recruit a few strong-armed friends.
I need some new tie rod ends, and I need the fastener sets (cone washer, lock washer, and acorn nut) that hold the Aisin lockout hubs on to the rotor.
So, I have a few more parts to round up.
- Thread starter
- #72
I revived an old thread of mine wherein I was looking for photos of how the master cylinders fit in on these old '40's. Mine is a '70, withe the vertical rib.
I want to run the JT Outfitters adapter and a booster and master from a Toyota mini truck. For the booster/master combination, I think the year I need is late 1970's early 1980's. Does it matter if the donor truck is a 2wd or 4wd? Has anyone run this setup? Does it all fit?
I am hoping to get the parts assembled BEFORE I do the teardown.
Here's my other thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/179374-howd-new-brake-master-cylinder-fit.html
Here's a pic of my JTO adapter:
I want to run the JT Outfitters adapter and a booster and master from a Toyota mini truck. For the booster/master combination, I think the year I need is late 1970's early 1980's. Does it matter if the donor truck is a 2wd or 4wd? Has anyone run this setup? Does it all fit?
I am hoping to get the parts assembled BEFORE I do the teardown.
Here's my other thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/179374-howd-new-brake-master-cylinder-fit.html
Here's a pic of my JTO adapter:
Here's a pic of the JT adaptor on the FW. I shimmed the bottom out with washers as I didn't like the angle. I'm using an early 80's 4x4 booster and master... it juuuust clears that rib. - sorry, dunno if there is a difference between the 2x and 4x... maybe someone will chime in.
Keep in mind you'll have to adapt the booster rod to foot peddle too. I made a simple but effective adapter by using a piece of round aluminum stock about an inch long, drilled it through and tapped M10x1.25 (same as the mini booster rod and FJ clevis @ peddle. Cut an M10x1.25 bolt for a stud and jam nuts and worked like a champ)
I have the booster on now, no pic yet. There is a diaphragm on the carb that interferes with the booster so I'll have to figure that one out...
Hope this helps and good luck with it!!
Keep in mind you'll have to adapt the booster rod to foot peddle too. I made a simple but effective adapter by using a piece of round aluminum stock about an inch long, drilled it through and tapped M10x1.25 (same as the mini booster rod and FJ clevis @ peddle. Cut an M10x1.25 bolt for a stud and jam nuts and worked like a champ)
I have the booster on now, no pic yet. There is a diaphragm on the carb that interferes with the booster so I'll have to figure that one out...
Hope this helps and good luck with it!!
- Thread starter
- #74
That carb diaphragm is EXACTLY the item I am concerned about. What does that thing do? It looks like it has a vacuum hose on it. Under certain conditions, the bellows in that thing pulls or pushes on one or two linkages. Hmmm.
I'm not as far along as you are; I do not have the booster and master in hand yet. Tomorrow is junk yard day. I'll let y'all know what I find.
I'm not as far along as you are; I do not have the booster and master in hand yet. Tomorrow is junk yard day. I'll let y'all know what I find.
It is the choke pull-off and i have run without for ever....not a problem. Just plug the vacuum line.
Yeah, I was considering ditching it if I can't make it fit. I think I can bend the tube around out of the way but figured the motor flex will cause it to hit anyway...
It's just a close fit....
Here's a few more pics that I hope helps out. Using the JT adapter, early 80's 4xToy truck booster and master in a stock '69 40. Ended up dumping the carb/choke diaphragm thingy...
Workin' on a hard line plan. Sketched it out and made a list... check'n it twice.
Anyway...
Berry, berry crose to clutch master.... but hey, it missed!
Juuust misses the vertical stringer. Also, you'll notice the fire wall is not flat for the adapter, hence spacers needed for the lower bolts.
Top view...
Oops, guess I won't be using the mini-line there...I'm thinkin' an elbow fitting of some type... if it's even available
Redneck push rod adapter. It's a touch short (want more thread engagement in the aluminum part) so I'll either remake it longer or use a longer stud on the clevis end of it and put a nut between the alum. and clevis....
Workin' on a hard line plan. Sketched it out and made a list... check'n it twice.
Anyway...
Berry, berry crose to clutch master.... but hey, it missed!
Juuust misses the vertical stringer. Also, you'll notice the fire wall is not flat for the adapter, hence spacers needed for the lower bolts.
Top view...
Oops, guess I won't be using the mini-line there...I'm thinkin' an elbow fitting of some type... if it's even available
Redneck push rod adapter. It's a touch short (want more thread engagement in the aluminum part) so I'll either remake it longer or use a longer stud on the clevis end of it and put a nut between the alum. and clevis....
ty
- Thread starter
- #79
TRoss, thanks for the pictures. These are very helpful. It makes me more confident that I am on the right path here.
My project has had no significant recent progress, except this:
I went to a salvage yard and got a master/booster from a Toyota mini truck. Forgot to take note of the year of the truck I took it off of. !!! Also, the truck I robbed it from, had no hood on it, so the plastic reservoir is somewhat sun faded. It may even be too brittle to use. But, the price was so cheap that I grabbed it thinking that maybe I could use it as a mockup if nothing else.
Here is a question: If you take a booster master setup off of a junked early 80's truck, is it likely to be still functional? I have only a vague idea of what is inside the booster, but could the booster diaphragm possibly be shot? Is there a way to test it?
I was thinking of buying a rebuild booster and master setup and using what I have as the core.
Any thoughts?
My project has had no significant recent progress, except this:
I went to a salvage yard and got a master/booster from a Toyota mini truck. Forgot to take note of the year of the truck I took it off of.
!!! Also, the truck I robbed it from, had no hood on it, so the plastic reservoir is somewhat sun faded. It may even be too brittle to use. But, the price was so cheap that I grabbed it thinking that maybe I could use it as a mockup if nothing else.Here is a question: If you take a booster master setup off of a junked early 80's truck, is it likely to be still functional? I have only a vague idea of what is inside the booster, but could the booster diaphragm possibly be shot? Is there a way to test it?
I was thinking of buying a rebuild booster and master setup and using what I have as the core.
Any thoughts?
We haven't hit a lick on the 40 for the past couple of weeks either... life seems to get in the way!!
Not sure about testing the booster, I'd like to know too... maybe someone will chime in.
I haven't priced either, just have to check w/local parts house.
Could rebuild the master and wing it on the booster in hopes it's still good. That's kinda what we're thinking for now maybe, unless core/exchange is very reasonable.
Hope you don't mind me piggy backin' your thread a little!
Not sure about testing the booster, I'd like to know too... maybe someone will chime in.
I haven't priced either, just have to check w/local parts house.
Could rebuild the master and wing it on the booster in hopes it's still good. That's kinda what we're thinking for now maybe, unless core/exchange is very reasonable.
Hope you don't mind me piggy backin' your thread a little!