Rigger's disc brake conversion

[Rigger]

Backer plate on, then shoes in place, then drum installed. There are a lot of little parts in there to keep tabs on! We tested the operation of the brake at every step along the way. Works good!

The middle pic has only one of the three springs in place. I installed the other two after the pic was taken!

In the last pic, take note of the transfer case drain plug. I got that from SOR. Has an allen head and a magnet. The original plug was kinda banged up.

Tomorrow, I have to get some 90 weight for the transfer case. Torque the big nut, add the cotter pin, then: ROAD TEST!

 

[TRoss]

Good tech. Gotta do the same thing on the kid's 40.
Did you turn the drum or was it okay?

 

[Rigger]

Good tech. Gotta do the same thing on the kid's 40.
Did you turn the drum or was it okay?

Thanks TRoss. I shoulda posted a pic of the drum surface. It looked good, which surprised me given that one eaten-up shoe. I have it all back together now. Filled the t-case back up, test drove it. I may need to tweak the adjuster a bit, but that'll have to wait.

 

[Degnol]

I've never heard of anyone turning the PB drum (although I'm sure someone has) because it seldom if ever gets used as a traditional drum brake. Although the early '40s with the single circuit master cylinder may have had more of a reason to use it ae a true emergency brake

 

[Rigger]

Cleaned up the replacement springs and gave 'em a coat of paint. Tie rod, too!

 

[Rigger]

Pulled the front bumper. Removed the stabilizer. Pulled some of the TRE's loose. Next: remove the shocks.

 

[Rigger]

Removed the front shocks. Put the front of the truck up on jackstands. Removed the spring pins. Removed the shackles. Disconnected the driveshaft. Removing the brake lines is proving to be tough; the threads are tight; stubborn little buggers. I sprayed 'em with WD-40 and called it a night.

I have to get to doing some serious layout work on new brake lines. Gotta buy a bending tool, and figure out where exactly these new lines are going to go. I have been having some e-mail discussions with Coolerman, and have had a few phone conversations with Toyrod.

 

[Rigger]

I removed the soft brake lines, and rolled out the old axle. I had a heck of a time removing the 1970 companion flange. I suppose there is a special tool made to hold that thing from rotating while you remove that 27mm nut. I used a piece of plywood and a bunch of screws.

Stopped and cleaned up.

 

[Rigger]

The '70 axle has a sort of cradle that supports the long u-bolt on the side of the pumpkin. My '76 axle seems to be missing this piece. Hmmm. I will have to remove the one from the 1970 axle and weld it to the '76 axle, I guess.

Here's the '76 axle:

 

[Rigger]

Here's the '70 axle. Notice the cradle there on the side of the pumpkin, opposite the spring perch.

 

[TRoss]

Good progress I see!!

IDK about that small weldment. Looks like it's purpose in life is to keep the U bolts perpendicular to the axle tube since it's close to the diff radius in the housing. ???? maybe someone will chime in....

 

[morrison]

Alfred--
that's funny yours doesn't have that piece. The '76 axle I have sitting in my driveway (that I haven't had time to get under the vehicle yet) has it, I thought all 40 axles had it. I can't remember what you said--is yours off of a 40? But you wouldn't have to take the old one off, just a little piece of strap stock welded on there would keep the ubolt from sliding down.

 

[Rigger]

At first, it did not appear that the '76 axle ever had that piece. On closer inspection, I can make out the 4 weld spots. It was there, and it was removed before I ever got the axle. Next week, I'll cook up a solution to that issue.

 

[morrison]

I have my trusty old AC/DC stick welder if you want to weld on that thing, bring it on over sometime (too cold this week though--I have to weld outside)

 

[Rigger]

I'm debating buying my own welder, and have spent some time over in the tools section reading up on 'em. I may have this small job done by Larry or Jim but, in the meanwhile, on with the show.

I removed the old master, and tried to mock up the new booster and master. The clutch master line is in the way. I have to get another on of those and bend it in a new config that stays clear of the area where the new booster will be located.

I am pointing at the offending line in this pic.

 

[Rigger]

Pulled the clutch line out of the way. Mocked up the install. (The booster and master were obtained from Mark Algazy at Mark's Off Road.)

It is very tight. That little diaphragm on the carb is gonna be a problem. It will have to go, I guess!

My carb looks like it needs a rebuild.

 

[grant5127]

There is a better way to go about that........

 

[Rigger]

There is a better way to go about that........

Grant, please post it up. I am open to suggestions.

 

[Rigger]

Other progress notes:

The PO of my truck had installed one of those Katz brand plug-in coolant heaters. It was spliced into the heater hoses, and mounted on to the driver side fender. It actually has an added heater hose and connector into the driver side of the engine block that replaces the block drain. That leg of hose was in the way of the booster. So, I removed all that stuff; in so doing, I drained out the coolant. I was going to replace the coolant and the hoses anyway! I have new hoses and I have a new block drain fitting.

I think I'll send my carb out to Mark's Off Road for a cleaning and going over. It'll be nice to have the carb out of the way, anyway, while I am working on installing the booster and master and running brake lines. Gotta check the funds!

I spoke to Mark Algazy about setting up a vacuum line to the booster. He is going to be sending me a few more components that I need. Mark is generous with tech help for his customers and is a good guy to do business with.

I have to get a few fittings to hook up the prop valve. Also, the prop valve I have has an "in" and an "out". According to the directions, "in" points towards the master cylinder.

 

[Rigger]

Brew8 stacked some dimes for me today. Got the u-bolt bracket gizmo welded onto the axle.