Builds reviving "isabel" (1 Viewer)

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thanks for the offer dima. i just got back from 4 days at the hammers with rustynuts, jeepindoug and the crew from bluetorchfab. kick ass, that's about all i can say. also got to drive the red bull single seater comp buggy thru one of the courses. talk about point and shoot.

project isabel will continue next week after i get back from rubithon. ;)
 
I am guessing he is still looking for dry clothes or sitting in the sun warming up....man that trip sounded like a bad dream...
 
Scottb said:
Stretcthing the spring doesn`t do anything for the steering pump.
Here in denver, one of the steering rebuild shops(they rebuild steer boxes, pumps, rack and pinion steering and hydro boost stuff) told me that the shims in the valve is what makes the pressure difference. By changing them, that changes the pressure, but only do this if you have a shop that test your valve before you put it back in, you can make the pressure to high, and blow up the pump, This shop here in Denver can check valves, I will be pulling mine out next week to up the pressure, and I will have them check the valve.
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http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html
 
all thawed out from "snowbithon" and actually got to spend a little time in the garage today.
somebody had voiced their concern about diff protection earlier in the thread. i was unsure of who's cover to run but watching rustynut's covers in action and meeting dan and the crew from www.bluetorchfab.com helped me make up my mind without and doubts. i bought a pair of their d60 covers and these babies are stout to say the least. the stock "thick" cover is about .160" which is just over an 1/8". the BTF cover is .375" which translates to 3/8" and allows for more fluid capacity.
couple of pics. one is a comparo of the BTF unit versus the stock "thick" cover, the other one is of the BTF cover installed on the front of isabel.
MVC-927S.JPG
MVC-928S.JPG
 
bustanutley said:
http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html
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I know for a fact it doesn`t work by stretching the spring, Call raven power steering here in Denver,CO.
I have seen them change shims, and the pessure changes each time.
I just had a stock pump tested last friday, and it put out almost 1400 psi, you don`t want to go over 1600 psi or you can start cracking things or blow up a few parts.
They told me about a guy that changed his shims to go to 2200 psi, and he blew his pump apart. And you won`t notice a difference between 1400 to 1600 psi.
Talk to Raven, they have good info.
Scott
 
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thanks for everybody's input on the PS pump. i think i will try the pump the way i got it first and then go from there. it's a newly rebuilt pump so hopefully it'll have enough poop to handle this application.

meanwhile, isabel is on major hold. :frown:
 
orangefj45 said:
thanks for everybody's input on the PS pump. i think i will try the pump the way i got it first and then go from there. it's a newly rebuilt pump so hopefully it'll have enough poop to handle this application.

meanwhile, isabel is on major hold. :frown:
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I know the feeling Georg. :frown: When I said the race was one I didn't that there was a intermission But they both will pur again :grinpimp:
 
bring her over , I'll babysit fer ya.
Ifin you get in real bind I will take the axles you built at the proper price ( whatever you say ) and then you'll be rich.
Has anyone actually ever seen or photo'd you driving a rig of your own ?
Oh , thats right the old orange one. Oldorngone , new board name for ya.
 
will the torment ever stop?! thanks for the laughs bud! :)
 
i took this week off to get some stuff done around the house and was able to spend some time on the cruiser.

i have not been able to try the brakes but i think they will work in their current configuration. i'm pretty sure that once i get settled in at my new job/shop, i will replace the front caliper bracketts with something scratch built. i'm still not happy with what's on there right now. i would make the bracketts sooner but i really have to prioritize my time right now and getting the cruiser to the point where i can drag it onto the trailer for it's move is way more important than having the front brakes set up to my liking.

i started this week by removing the rest of the chopped up factory harness along with some more rat's nest wiring so i can start with a clean slate. pulled both gauge panels and rewired the gauges, or at least some of the wiring on them as prelim work to the complete rewiring job. i'm trying to get a bunch of "sub assemblies" completed so when the point in time comes to install some of this stuff, i'll have a lot of it ready to go.

i don't like crip connectors because they can and will fail over time due to vibration and corosion issues, so i hard solder and use shrink tube on everything. this takes a lot more time and creates more work, but i think it's worth the peace of mind.

here are a couple of pics of the gauge pods and gauges.
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on tuesday i decided that i needed to use my time more wisely than screwing around with the wiring and gauges so i got back to the cross member project. i had'nt finalized in my mind yet so i was hesitant to dive back into it. but i made some slow progress even though the day was plagued by mistakes, drilling holes in the wrong spot, having to redo a couple of pieces in the process, 107 degs temp, grinding dust, ..... and then of course getting my hair caught in the creeper, cutting myself, burning myself, smashing my foot and to top is all off, pinching my arm in the creeper just for good measure. gotta love this hobby.
MVC-875S.JPG
 
at the end of an eight hour wrenching session in the garage i did finally achieve what i set out to do. i got the transfer case mounted about an inch higher than it was, got my three main cross members ready and tack welded to the frame runners, got the mount in perfect position and now have a belly pan which hangs only one inch below the frame rails, is perfectly flat and gives me just over 24" of ground clearance on 37"s.
to do all this, i had to pull the atlas back out after marking the underside of the tub for some "clearance adjustments". got the tub clearanced, put the atlas back in and liked it a lot better. in the previous configuration, i would have had to make a goofy skid plate with multi levels for the t-case and mount, but now it's flat.
after re-installing the atlas i quickly figured out that the transmission adapter mount hung down too low. so back out with the t-case and adapter to create more clearance. i figured the easiest way to do this would be to chop the needed 1/2" off the adapter by chucking it up in the mill. but the "feet" on the adapter are not perpendicular with the sides, so i had to come up with something else. i could of course change the angle on the mill head but then i'd have to re-index it to cut perfectly horizontal and that can take anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 hours. that was'nt part of the program so i marked the adapter as well as i could and used my portaband. that got me pretty close and the grinder finished the rest.


here are a couple of pics of a stock adapter, along with the removed sections and a pic of the modified unit installed in the rig:
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Looks Great so far! Keep up the good work!
 
wngrog said:
I like that center guage pod. Did you make it?

As for the new job, are you doing the same sort of thing? Still the go-to guy for trannys?
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the gauge pods in the cruiser were made by cruiser friends of ours in the counter top industry. they made a few of these but only for friends and no longer make them cause they're waaaay to time consuming and their business is beyond swamped, which is a good problem.

as for my future; i'll try to keep this short.
my pending divorce has forced me to take a good hard look at my life and i did'nt like what i saw. i do not like to settle for anything. i also would like to do something i would enjoy on many levels, other than just purely the financial rewards that come along with some jobs. i need to get personal satisfaction out of what i'm doing, i like a certain level of freedom, i don't mind responsibility one bit, as long as others uphold their end, i don't mind working hard and i do need to do something that interests me. my current job offered very few of these rewards but it was a safe means to an end. well, no more. next thursday will be my last day there. i have been with the company for 4 years and am as of this year the top salesman there. but i don't like the job for many reasons which i won't get into.
i will be selling my house in the next 6-8 weeks and moving on to my new venture which i will discuss in due time, but it's not 100% finalized yet so i can't really get into it.
what i can tell you is that i will be working more hours but also wheeling a lot more if everything works out right. i plan on hitting moab, pismo, rubicon, cascades, mcgrew, fordyce, hammers and more next year.
 
okie said:
On the diff cover what kinda paint did u use ? just curious
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thanks for the compliment rachel. have'nt heard from you in a long time. the paint on the covers is hammerite. it creates an uneven yet verh hard finish that's easy to touch up, should work out well on the diff covers cause i know they're gonna get bashed. :grinpimp:
 
Georg,

Great to see someone still workin on thier stuff....I have been at a stand still for a few weeks :frown: I hope to get back on it after going away with teh family next week...I really wanna drive my truck to Pismo this year...any other cross member pics...That is the next project...Thanks :beer: :beer:
 
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