Restoration questions

[Adax]

First post - Thanks to everyone who has contributed the great info on this site. I frequent a lot of different make sites and the posters here seem to be the most knowledgeable and willing to assist of any. I've been here for a few months but now that I'm deeper into a '74 restoration I have a couple of questions that I can't find the answers to.

1. In the dissassembly for media blasting, I'm having a lot of trouble removing the numerous Philips head machine screws that have rusted in place (like the ones on the interior door securing the window frame, rear lower hatch door hinges, etc.) I doubt there's a magic trick but drilling them out after I strip the heads is time consuming. So far I have tried:

Heating with a torch
Liquid Wrench soaks
Impact screw-driver
Relentless profanity
"screw extractor" devices
Combinations of the above

My extraction success rate is about 30%

2. I plan a 3 to 4 speed swap. I have purchased a 4 speed tranny with a 4 speed T-case. Is is easier to do the 4 tranny to 3 T-case as described here or to swap in both the 4 speed tranny and case? Will the latter require new drive shafts?

3. Is it generally thought to be better do a front brake conversion using the mini-truck method rather than use one of the bolt-on kits available? The caliper brakets in those kits look a little weak to me.

Thats all for now, thanks for all the help.

Project pics below before work began. And yes, I have added some air springs to the rear of the FJ Cruiser since this picture.

 

[ocdbeetle]

Sweet.....resist the urge to have the bodyshop skimcoat the weld dimples.....

I'm sure someone with experience with the other things will be around soon.....

 

[craptabulous]

you should be able to get the screws out with a "good" impact driver and a hard hit .

worst case scenario weld a nut onto of them and take them off with a wrench or break them trying .

 

[nspctr1]

Yeah, of the cruisers I've owned I'd say about 30% would break or spin the head off. It does make for a longer day but it gets done. I did the mini disc swap and would suggest that to anyone. It was simple to do, you can upgrade your to vented rotors from a 4 runner and larger calipers from a FJ60 IIRC without major modifications.
Post up your location and more pics.

 

[makomark]

I soaked the bolts with a penetrating oil called Kroil it really works. I would also notch the screw heads with a dremel so i can fit in a very large regular screw driver. I managed to removed 95% of them with this metod.

 

[antFJ]

i would look for rust at the inner wheel well lip and on the hardtop those dimples look like rust not spot welds..

 

[AATLAS1X]

Buy Snap-on phillips bits in 3/8 drive.

IF you have twisted the head all ready by try to remove it then massage the head with a smooth face hammer and then seat the Snap-on 3/8 bit in the screw with the same hammer. Then I use a 18v Snap-on cordless impact and they will come right out.

The impact will cost you $350 but you can tear a complete truck down in 8 hours on one battery in your drive way. I did it on a Saturday and did not drill out one screw or bolt.

Shane

 

[ocdbeetle]

i would look for rust at the inner wheel well lip and on the hardtop those dimples look like rust not spot welds..

Sure looks like weld dimples to me on the bottom of the hardtop and directly under it on the rear quarters....no?

 

[Coolerman]

This has been said before about the "Phillips" head screws. Get a set of METRIC phillips bits or screwdrivers or both. They are not easy to find but I found a set at a hobby store on line and a kind soul here on MUD sent me the larger #3 metric screwdriver. These fit the screw heads better than the American sizes reducing the chance of destroying the head. (If you are restoring and replacing them anyway, use any method necessary to remove them! )

Also make SURE that the head is clean of all rust and dirt. ALL the way deep into the cross. No bit can get a good grip if there is dirt in there. Then do as suggested above and tap the bit deep into the cross. Only then try to remove it.

If you can't afford the $350 battery powered impact driver, a hand impact driver is only $10-$20. Either one and will greatly aid in removing frozen fasteners whether they be small screws or larger bolts. Adapters usually come with the drivers to fit the standard hex bits or 1/4 and 3/8 sockets.

 

[Bodean]

Kroil is the best penetrant on the market. Google it because I think you can only buy it from the Mfg. It willl make you disassembly a lot easier.

Later,

 

[Adax]

Thanks for the suggestions. I have a 1/2" drive air driven impact gun. I'll look for a 1/2" drive Snap-on bit and if not, use a 3/8" adapter. I've been using my hand-held impact driver but eventually it will spin out of the head on the round-head bolts. It works fine for the flat head, conical seat ones.

 

[Coolerman]

Japanese Cross Point Screwdrivers
HOZAN JIS Screwdriver Set (5 drivers)

Hex bits metric :Vessel JIS Screwdrivers

 

[Robert LaDuke]

Sure looks like weld dimples to me on the bottom of the hardtop and directly under it on the rear quarters....no?

Looks that way to me too. Mine has 'em and I like 'em.

 

[40's rock]

HIJACK...how well did the cuiser pull the cruiser? I have been tempted to go that way, but thought the snails would run over me if I did.

 

[KY Longhunter]

This is the first time I've heard of JIS Phillips heads being different than regular phillips !!!

Of course Ive already stripped every last screw/bolt on my build !!!

 

[antFJ]

Sure looks like weld dimples to me on the bottom of the hardtop and directly under it on the rear quarters....no?

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/235482-bumps-my-78%92s-rear-tub-fenders.html

i know they are supposed to be there to a certain extent but rusting in the lip can cause a more noticeable bulging

 

[Adax]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/235482-bumps-my-78%92s-rear-tub-fenders.html

i know they are supposed to be there to a certain extent but rusting in the lip can cause a more noticeable bulging

There's no rust there and the dimples are barely visible, it's just the flash highlighting them. I like them as well and plan to make sure they survive the bodyshop.

I'll order some metric screwdrivers for the cool factor if no other reason.

 

[Adax]

HIJACK...how well did the cuiser pull the cruiser? I have been tempted to go that way, but thought the snails would run over me if I did.

Pulls it fine but I wouldn't want to take it across country. Air springs for the rear and electric trailer brakes make it much better. I had just bought the trailer and had neither installed when I first towed it home and took that picture. I usually tow my race car on the trailer which is much lighter and it is barely noticeable.

Toyota FJ Cruiser Air Bag Helper Spring Kit 2007-2008 - "Air Lift 1000" Suspension by Air Lift

 

[kb3gun]

Hijack Continued: I plan on running a Weight Distributing Hitch, but I might add those air bags to the equation too. Looks sharp!