RESOLVED!! Help? Pollak 6-Port Problem (1 Viewer)

[Solace in Solitude]

Hi All,

I'm trying to verify that both my OEM senders are wired correctly and are functioning correctly. The aux tank sender is connected, laying on the floor.

I've wired my 6-Port Pollak and Pollak DPDT Switch, in accordance with the Pollak schematic and, regardless of how I set the DPDT Switch, the Aux Tank Sender displays to my fuel gauge,

I've gone back and disconnected the Main Tank Sender from wire node 'A' on the 6-port

So, the main tank sender is not connected to the Pollak and not connected at the main tank. The Aux Tank Sender is wired to node 'C', nothing to node 'A' and Node 'B' runs to the fuel gauge - same results - aux tank displays to gauge, no matter how I switch the DPDT.

I've also disconnected wire the Main Tank (Pollak wire node 'E') from the DPDT - only the Aux Tank Sender is connected to the Pollak and only the Aux Tank fuel gauge switch (Pollak wire node 'D') is connected to e DPDT. Same results - aux tank displays to gauge, no matter how I switch the DPDT.

To make the connection to the gauge, I cut the YR wire and connected Pollak wire node 'B' to the fuel gauge.

The YR wire, from main tank sender will wire to the Pollak wire node 'A' when I resolve this.

Has anyone seen this problem?

Does anyone have any insight into what might be wrong, besides a defective Pollak 6-Port?

I've contacted Pollak and PartDeal (retailer) and am awaiting their response,

Thanks!

Here's my wire color drawing:

Here's how the Pollak 6-Port controller is wired - A thru E, right to left - you can see 'A' (Yellow - main tank sender) is not connected.

Here' the back of the DPDT - connections are left to right, 1-3 on bottom and 4-6 on top. I only have one fuel gauge selector wire connected right now - DPDT is currently switched to aux tank. Yet, flipping the switch to main displays aux tank sender to gauge.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

The PartDeal tech says he's not seen this, but wants me to send the kit back - I should have a replacement by tomorrow at 3pm.

I'd still like to know if anyone that's installed a Pollak 6-port setup can see a problem with what I'm doing.

Thanks!

 

[Heron]

Hi.
I used the same setup on my dual tank installation.
your wiring is the same as mine except for E and D are reversed.
Try switching E and D.

Al

 

[Heron]

Opps! one other thing, I took my power from the fuel pump relay.

76 FJ40

 

[Solace in Solitude]

I'm using the stock mechanical fuel pump - no power.

I swapped D and E - same result.

I've now taken it all out to send back - should have the replacement kit tomorrow afternoon.

Edit: BTW I've wired (with a separate 10amp inline fuse) the DPDT from the ACC-hot lug on the back of the fuse box, under the Heater fuse.

Thanks Al!

 

[Heron]

Danny, The GM 122747 ECM/TBI system requires 15PSI to run well, I do not think the stock pump will meet this requirement.
Check with Downey.

Al

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Doesn't apply for me Al, I'm running the stock Aisin carb.

Downey recommended I use an electric fuel pump, but my OEM pump is only a couple of months old and I have a good backup. So, I decided to go the OEM mechanical pump route... as others (@bsevans for one) have.

Thanks!

 

[Heron]

Sorry, if I added to the confusion, my guess is you just got a bad valve.
some day you should consider the GM TBI, you will never go back.

Al

 

[bj40green]

Are we talking this diagram?

If so, where is the rest of your wiring?
Right now it doesn't switch between tanks and thus not the senders.

Rudi

 

[ducktapeguy]

Aren't you missing the connections to #3 and #6 on the switch? Unless I missed something in the text.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Aren't you missing the connections to #3 and #6 on the switch? Unless I missed something in the text.

Are we talking this diagram?
View attachment 1001299

If so, where is the rest of your wiring?
Right now it doesn't switch between tanks and thus not the senders.

Rudi

Sorry! I should have mentioned, the Pollak DPDT comes with 3&4 crossed and 1&6 crossed.

Is that what you meant?

Thanks!

 

[bj40green]

Sorry! I should have mentioned, the Pollak DPDT comes with 3&4 crossed and 1&6 crossed.

Is that what you meant?

Thanks!

I see 3 wires (red = 12V, green = ground and white = main tank). The diagram has 4 wires, so 1 (the D wire for the aux tank) is missing?

Rudi

Oh, BTW: Looking at your diagram: The white wire is hooked up to the wrong pin (D). Should be hooked up to E.
Looking at the picture with the switch: The black wire is missing and should be connected to D.
When that works, the valve will connect the correct sender to the Fuel gauge.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

I see 3 wires (red = 12V, green = ground and white = main tank). The diagram has 4 wires, so 1 (the D wire for the aux tank) is missing?

Rudi

Oh, BTW the white wire is hooked up to the wrong pin (D). Should be hooked up to E.
The black wire is missing and should be connected to D.
When that works, the valve will connect the correct sender to the Fuel gauge.

Rudi,

I must not have explained clearly what I've done.

I originally had everything hooked up to the 6-port and the DPDT, as shown in my drawing.

@Heron suggested I swap D & E - I did and it didn't make a difference.

DPDT D&E are supposed to be interchangeable - according to Pollak Tech - so, shouldn't matter whether D or E goes to either middle lug on the DPDT...

I've disconnected the black wire, from the DPDT, to try to eliminate the main sender reporting on the gauge.

Nothing made a difference - with or without both senders wired, the DPDT displayed the aux tank sender to the fuel gauge, no matter whether set on Aux or Main, no matter whether both were wired or only AUx wired.

PartDeal is sending another kit by 3pm tomorrow.

Once I get it, I will hook everything back up and make sure 6-port 'D' goes to DPDT '2' and 6-port 'E' goes to DPDT '5'.

Thanks!

 

[bj40green]

DPDT D&E are supposed to be interchangeable - according to Pollak Tech - so, shouldn't matter whether D or E goes to either middle lug on the DPDT...

Yep, but if the switch face plate is marked MAIN and AUX ...... voel je 'm?

Back to English.....
The DPDT switch activates the selector valve. When the selector valve changes position it will also connect "the other" sender.
Does the selector valve work?

Rudi

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Ja, ik voel je! Maar, het is niet iets wat ik wil toegeven. Voel je 'm?

This selector valve doesn't appear to differentiate between Node A and C - the output to B is always the input from C (aux tank sender).

That's why PartsDeal agreed that the valve is defective.

Voel je 'm?

 

[bj40green]

Okidokie!

 

[ducktapeguy]

Sorry! I should have mentioned, the Pollak DPDT comes with 3&4 crossed and 1&6 crossed.

Is that what you meant?

Thanks!

Yup, it's been many years since I installed mine, so I don't remember what the switch looked like on the backside. Sounds like you've identified the problem in the valve and it's being taken care of.

I vaguely remember going through troubleshooting issues with mine. Since you're getting a new valve probably doesn't matter anymore, but yave you tried just bypassing the switch and hard wiring the D and E connections to the battery? That would eliminate a switch issue. I think you should be able to hear valve switch when you swap those two connections, and you can also check by blowing into the ports and checking that it's physically switching.

D and E are interchangeable, as long as you get the hose connections from the tanks and senders to correlate. I had hooked mine backwards the first time and was reading everything backwards.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Yup, it's been many years since I installed mine, so I don't remember what the switch looked like on the backside. Sounds like you've identified the problem in the valve and it's being taken care of.

I vaguely remember going through troubleshooting issues with mine. Since you're getting a new valve probably doesn't matter anymore, but yave you tried just bypassing the switch and hard wiring the D and E connections to the battery? That would eliminate a switch issue. I think you should be able to hear valve switch when you swap those two connections, and you can also check by blowing into the ports and checking that it's physically switching.

D and E are interchangeable, as long as you get the hose connections from the tanks and senders to correlate. I had hooked mine backwards the first time and was reading everything backwards.

I hadn't tried that - hope I don't have further issues with the new valve

 

[Solace in Solitude]

For those of you who haven't been able to sleep, worrying about my problem... It's resolved - my replacement arrived last night and I installed it this morning and all is good!!

As I suspected, the Pollak 6-Port Valve was defective.

Thanks for your help!!

 

[MrMoMo]

If I were you, I'd carry a spare. Those are known to go defective. I ordered one when I first converted my BJ60 to veggie and it was defective out of the box (as yours appears to have been). I went another route with a much higher quality solenoid valve (at almost the same price), and never had an issue since.