Replacing windshield tomorrow at dealership - any quick tips? (1 Viewer)

[jumptrader]

Hello! Got a chip that turned into a 10" long crack within 2 days. I suspect something about the Texas summer heat + the super cold A/C I had blasting during a road trip.

Got lucky, and Geico said Safelite did not have the 2003 LX470 glass in stock in my area, and therefore approved OEM glass and trim.

Tomorrow I'm going to the Lexus dealership to get the glass replaced.

I'm assuming I just need to insist on the usage of RIVETS instead of screws, per manufacturer instructions.

Is there anything else I should ask or strongly insist on? Photos of the A-pillar after the take off the glass to assess (potential) rust damage?

Many thanks everyone.

 

[ramangain]

Drive it with the tech IMMEDIATELY afterwards at speed. ANY wind noise = do over

 

[Travis 76]

Try to be there, meet up with the glass guy that shows up to do the install. Print out the installation procedure from an fsm and go over it with the installer. I worked at a Toyota dealership years ago and they hired out windshields to a mobile installer.

 

[Asanka]

Would you share the cost if glass and install?

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I just had mine replaced at Safelite last week, talked with a tech that claimed he's had some advanced training. He said the rivet piece is more about wind noise/holding the trim on securely than it is leaks. The sealant and frame condition has more to do with leaking. I would let them do their work, give it a day or two, and then test the seal yourself. Put something soapy/bubbly on the outside edge and blow compressed air along the inside edge to test for leaks.

Cost of PPG class out of pocket was $300 for mine, OEM glass when I had insurance coverage was around a grand.

 

[willmtaylor]

@Asanka - I just had mine repaired by a very experienced and reputable local shop with 3rd party glass. It was $210 + tax (I'm in Central Arkansas).

 

[Asanka]

Thanks, I'm a bit afraid of aftermarket glass and also improper installs. Less than $300 glass installed on other my car isn't good. Nighttime glare and flare on corners. Glass on my LC is cracked, but it's the original glass still.

 

[jumptrader]

Would you share the cost if glass and install?

The Geico insurance I have states:

• Free - repairing of chips
• $750 - OEM equivalent glass

This includes glass and moulding and $40 / hour of labor (they wouldn't tell me how many hours that was).

This is the quote from the Lexus dealership... Since I have to pay the $750 deductible anyways, I don't mind what they charge me.
Funny thing is the local highly reviewed Yelp glass shop quoted $350 for non-OEM glass + labor, and then actual parts cost for the moulding. So it would have barely cleared my $750 deductible.

 

[jumptrader]

Thank you for all the tips, everyone. They had to delay the work by a week... so will see what happens. Not off to a good start

 

[suprarx7nut]

Rivets only. No screws under any circumstance. Insist they use the OEM dam kit. Insist on new trim on top and each side.

As @ramangain says, check for wind noise immediately, preferably with tech. Loose rivets = wind noise and potential leaks.

Bonus points if you can get pictures (or see firsthand) of the A pillars once the old urethane is removed. It's alarming how much corrosion can be hidden. Any corrosion on the urethane path should be properly treated (ground/sanded/primer/paint/clear) prior to install. That is typically outside the realm of windshield guys and would need to go to a body shop. A pain, but worth the time to do right.

 

[CruisingSned]

Be there to see the state of the windscreen surround. They do rust.
if the glass installer goes anywhere near your car with tech screws bury that body real deep.

 

[jumptrader]

@suprarx7nut @CruisingSned
Ahh good point about the rust... I'll ask the dealership if that's possible or how much it would cost.

If the previous installer used screws, how does one switch back to rivets?

 

[spaber05]

Having just had a windshield replaced on my '06, I know how far south this can go. I had it done by an "experienced" Safelite guy who immediately proceeded to use screws instead of Rivets. I saw the whole mistake and instead of making them fix it (why have them half-ass it again?), I took it straight to a reputable body shop to have them do it right. I had to call my insurance company who made Safelite pay for the mix up and the repair, which they did since they acknowledged that they had done poor work.

It was a whole process, but in the end I know it was done right, primarily thanks to this community knowing how to do things properly and what to look out for. As others have said, make sure to inspect the state of the metal around the windshield for rust and look closely at the installer's work if possible. If screws have been used previously, it is likely up to the new installer to properly prep the now-enlarged holes and find appropriately sized rivets that are not going to be OEM (I may be wrong, but I believe that's what they had to do for mine).

 

[90WT]

The LX rain sensor has a very expensive little clear gummy strip between the sensor and glass. Be sure that little guy gets re-installed (and/or replaced) and doesn't get all dirty. Safelite guy messed that up on mine.

 

[jumptrader]

Having just had a windshield replaced on my '06, I know how far south this can go. I had it done by an "experienced" Safelite guy who immediately proceeded to use screws instead of Rivets. I saw the whole mistake and instead of making them fix it (why have them half-ass it again?), I took it straight to a reputable body shop to have them do it right. I had to call my insurance company who made Safelite pay for the mix up and the repair, which they did since they acknowledged that they had done poor work.

It was a whole process, but in the end I know it was done right, primarily thanks to this community knowing how to do things properly and what to look out for. As others have said, make sure to inspect the state of the metal around the windshield for rust and look closely at the installer's work if possible. If screws have been used previously, it is likely up to the new installer to properly prep the now-enlarged holes and find appropriately sized rivets that are not going to be OEM (I may be wrong, but I believe that's what they had to do for mine).

Wow, well, I'm happy to hear you got it done correctly!

Out of curiosity, what was that discussion like with the insurance company?
Were there key phrases you had said regarding the screws vs rivets?

I'm worried the inevitable conversation with the insurance company will be with someone on the insurance side who doesn't see the big deal about screws vs rivets.

 

[ramangain]

Wow, well, I'm happy to hear you got it done correctly!

Out of curiosity, what was that discussion like with the insurance company?
Were there key phrases you had said regarding the screws vs rivets?

I'm worried the inevitable conversation with the insurance company will be with someone on the insurance side who doesn't see the big deal about screws vs rivets.

This is where you have two documents. 1st is the FSM pages with step by step directions for windshield replacement. 2nd is an appropriate post from this forum (with pictures) that shows nasty ass rust on the pillar that was revealed after a previous windshield replacement using screws. If the insurance person doesn't understand this, start going up the chain and emphasize the COST of such a mistake that you'll demand insurance pays for when it happens.

 

[TLEXAS]

As well as the fitting, rust repairs and rivet installation arrangement try to get the upspec screen if possible. The solar control with tinted upper section and acoustic glass are highly recommended.

 

[planomateo]

This is the quote from the Lexus dealership... Since I have to pay the $750 deductible anyways, I don't mind what they charge me.
Funny thing is the local highly reviewed Yelp glass shop quoted $350 for non-OEM glass + labor, and then actual parts cost for the moulding. So it would have barely cleared my $750 deductible.

There is no reason to have a $750 comprehensive deductible... fix that asap.

 

[willmtaylor]

There is no reason to have a $750 comprehensive deductible... fix that asap.

In what way?

 

[suprarx7nut]

There is no reason to have a $750 comprehensive deductible... fix that asap.

In what way?

I'm guessing he means because lowering that to $250 or something is cheap.

FYI, my policy has a separate glass deductible. And it's $0. I had the same with Geico and now have All-State. Normally glass claims have a very low deductible. This is a glass claim - make sure they're processing it as such. It might fall into a special category within your glass policy. If your policy has no glass claim category, you might want to switch insurance companies and join the 21st century.