Replacing the clutch in a 3B w/ h55 (1 Viewer)

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Apr 23, 2003
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I have a 1983 3B w/ H55 that needs a new clutch and I am contemplating replacing it myself. How hard is it to replace a clutch, and everything that goes with it? I am a novice mechanic, but my plan is to learn every inch of this engine and to be able to work on it myself. I have ordered the 3B engine FSM with the Chassis will be ordered next. What other FSMs do I need? What kind of tools will I need? If it is over my head I will have a mechanic do it. Thanks for any info.
 
Replacing a clutch is fairly straight forward. The hard part is dropping and then reinstalling the tranny/transfer case. Standard hand tools and a torque wrench is all that's required. Machine the flywheel while it's out. Make sure your pilot bearing fits on the input shaft before trying to put it all back together. A piece of emory cloth helps here. Check the condition of the rear main seal while you have the flywheel off. Replace it if it looks marginal.

Good luck!

:cheers:
 
I agree, it's fairly easy. I had my clutch rebuild and flywheel resurfaced for 140$ at an industrial clutch shop. the nice thing about a clutch kit is that it includes the throw out bearing, which can be hard to find.
for the price of having it done, you will own the tools and then some. A helping hand to move the trans around will help.

There are a ton of tricks to get the old pilot bearing out, do a bit of reaserch and you'll see. I packed in some grease then used a round punch to compress it further and it popped out. I did however have an issue putting it back together: I couldn't push the trans all the way into the pilot bearng. Apparently, it's ok to use the bolts to cinch it up the last 1/4"....

Is it a 60 or a 42? I've always wanted to see the original setup of a h55 in a 83/84 42. Specifically, how they clear the cross member.

Take your time, and be safe since a trans falling off will really really suck
 
A good trick if you are doing this under the truck is to use a wide skateboard under a floor jack or tranny jack on a piece of plywood when reinstalling the trans . It makes it slide in a little easier . Also hook up the slave when the tranny is close to being in so that you can depress the clutch to line it up a bit if you have to .
 
Just done mine, as mentioned its straight forward , the Box and transfer are heavy if you can sling it from in the cab makes it easier to handle as it can be unstable on the trolley jack. I had the roof off and had a cable hoist attached to a roof joist , helped a lot.
Replace spigot bearing, (used wet newspaper trick to get old one out), thrust bearing, clutch lever boot ,Clutch plate and pressure plate, get flywheel skimmed, rear main oil-seal if necessary, and finally slave cylinder
While the starter is out I pulled mine apart and replaced the bearings , gave it a clean and some fresh grease,,,,,,, you will need a bearing press for this though,,,
Good luck

:beer:
 
Thanks all. Plan on getting a clutch kit to get everything I need. I have a 64' FJ-40 that I had a 3b dropped into, so unfortunately I don't have any pics of the cross member. Thanks again!!
 
Probably the first thing I did by myself on my 60. Its pretty straight forward with no special tools required, though a trans Jack would be nice to have. I think I supported mine with recovery straps around the frame rails when I did it.

Some bungees to hold the driveshafts up, and some wood blocks to support the oil pan (keep the engine from tilting back too much) would be nice though.
 
I just had my transmission out for and engine seal replacement and an input seal . Worst part was getting to the top bolts the hold the transmission to the engine. To get to the top bolt driver side I needed to lower the transmission quite a bit while still attached to the engine. There is only minmal clearance at the back for the transfercase so you have to lower as you pull out but there is enough room. They got it in there right ?

A tranny Jack is magic. I won't do it anymore with blocks of wood and a trolley jack too much headache. The 25 $ a day rental to tilt on all axes is so worth it. Also I sweep the floor or lay down plywood it really helps to roll the jack around that transmission and transfer case are heavy.

Good luck
 
I found it much easier to re-install the trans with the bellhousing attached to the engine already. And I use heavy duty ratchet straps wrapped around the frame to hold and lift the trans/t-case up. this allows for a lot of movement (side to side etc) when lining everything up. when the trans is on a jack, its harder to move it around.
 
Is it a 60 or a 42? I've always wanted to see the original setup of a h55 in a 83/84 42. Specifically, how they clear the cross member.

Ambrew, these might help , its an '83, BJ42 with H55F,

Edit , tried several files , failed, will download individual files when my internet speeds up:meh:
:beer:
 
I don't know how the rear main is installed on the b but if it's like most engines (pressed in) I would replace it while everything's off. Just makes sense as you don't want to pull the tranny off again if it starts leaking after. Just my .02 though
 
I have a 1980 BJ40 that was restored in Costa Rico with a 3B diesel and H55 5 speed transmission conversion. Does anyone know what type of clutch I should use to replace the existing one. I dont want to drop transmission/ transfer at my mechanics garage to find out clutch type and then have to do it all over again. I think I need to know spline type and pressure plate/ friction plate diameters.
 

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