Thanks to the wonderful advice on this board, I was aware of the starter problem after my truck clicked during starting. CDAN hooked me up with the parts, but due to Christmas and today's unexpected snow, I havent been able to replace them. I am waiting for a FSM to arrive, but don't want to get stuck in the cold. How hard is it to change the contacts without the manual (will I recognize where the parts go when I open the starter?)
Replacing Starter Contacts (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter maxnharry
- Start date
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Yea Max it's pretty straight forward if you're somewhat mechanically inclined. I suggest you search the forum and also check out Slee's site, you'll find lots of info in both places.
Here's a few links:
Slee offroad tech info on starter contacts
edit.. ok, just one link
Here's a few links:
Slee offroad tech info on starter contacts
edit.. ok, just one link
Last edited:
The hardest part is removal of the starter. If you can manage that, then the contacts are pretty straight-forward.
ditto to the above, no need to wait for the FSM, pull it and you will see canging them is pretty simple
just take your time and do it with worm fingers, there are a couple of small springs in there
just take your time and do it with worm fingers, there are a couple of small springs in there
One thing to be sure of is that the contacts do not "roll" when you tighten the nuts. You want the contacts perpendicular to the plunger flange. Cocked contacts will wear very quickly and will take the plunger with them.
Fashion a wooden block that you can set on the contacts and use a bar-clamp to apply some pressure against them to keep them flat when you tighten the nuts.
Fashion a wooden block that you can set on the contacts and use a bar-clamp to apply some pressure against them to keep them flat when you tighten the nuts.
I replaced my starter contacts yesterday. The Slee instructions were all I needed.
If you have a Haynes manual, ignore its instructions. It would have you remove the battery from the vehicle and remove the cruise control assembly. All of which seems totally unnecessary.
I had such a difficult time getting the starter unbolted that I thought there was no way I'd get it back in. It's tough to break the bolts loose through a u-joint with little leverage. But actually, once it was unbolted the rest (including reinstallation) was very easy.
If you have a Haynes manual, ignore its instructions. It would have you remove the battery from the vehicle and remove the cruise control assembly. All of which seems totally unnecessary.
I had such a difficult time getting the starter unbolted that I thought there was no way I'd get it back in. It's tough to break the bolts loose through a u-joint with little leverage. But actually, once it was unbolted the rest (including reinstallation) was very easy.
carolina_cruiser said:
I second that comment. The lower bolt came out easy enough (tho it was bugger-all tight) but I spent 90 minutes screwing around with the top bolt before I could get it to break loose.
Access is difficult - it's really hard to get the leverage you need. I ended up using a 1/2 inch ratchet with a long pipe (my Hi-Lift handle) to get enough torque. I was soooo happy when it finally banged loose - I was running low on swear words
Be sure to clean the threads and use anti-seize so it isn't so hard next time!
I didn't change my contacts - I did look at them and the plunger was welded to the contacts. I put in a reman unit and will get a set of contacts to keep on hand to fix the new starter if needed. I didn't like the idea of fixing the old one. It had a $35 core value, at least....
John
John E Davies said:I second that comment. The lower bolt came out easy enough (tho it was bugger-all tight) but I spent 90 minutes screwing around with the top bolt before I could get it to break loose.
Access is difficult - it's really hard to get the leverage you need. I ended up using a 1/2 inch ratchet with a long pipe (my Hi-Lift handle) to get enough torque. I was soooo happy when it finally banged loose - I was running low on swear words
Be sure to clean the threads and use anti-seize so it isn't so hard next time!
I didn't change my contacts - I did look at them and the plunger was welded to the contacts. I put in a reman unit and will get a set of contacts to keep on hand to fix the new starter if needed. I didn't like the idea of fixing the old one. It had a $35 core value, at least....
John
90 minutes on the top bolt - ouch! If you have a fine tooth ratchet (3 degree click opposed to 6 degrees), you may find a big difference. Also use a 6 point socket if you have one.
sea2skydad said:
I didn't have any trouble getting on the bolt - I couldn't get enough leverage to bust the thing loose!
John
