Replacing rear sill with square tubing (2 Viewers)

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I've seen many videos on replacing the rear sill with a 2x2 square tubing. Every video I see it's a older 40 with half door. I own a 77 with barn door will the square tubing still work with the barn doors?
 
I've seen many videos on replacing the rear sill with a 2x2 square tubing. Every video I see it's a older 40 with half door. I own a 77 with barn door will the square tubing still work with the barn doors?
You will need to notch it for the weatherstripping but yes.
 
More than just the weatherstripping the notch needs to be large enough for the doors to sit flush with sill. Generally the full doors in the back are referred as ambulance doors. The half door are called barn doors. Barn doors and tailgates fit against the back not flush. So those did not require being notched. Your 77 sill was generally the same as the pre 75 tubs in the US market just notched. 1/79 the tub changed how it was built and square tubing would not be as easy to use. With a hard top model would extend the tubing past the door opening as much as possible. The quarter panel support a lot of weight. More you can tie the square tubing into the quarter panel the stronger it will be.
 
More than just the weatherstripping the notch needs to be large enough for the doors to sit flush with sill. Generally the full doors in the back are referred as ambulance doors. The half door are called barn doors. Barn doors and tailgates fit against the back not flush. So those did not require being notched. Your 77 sill was generally the same as the pre 75 tubs in the US market just notched. 1/79 the tub changed how it was built and square tubing would not be as easy to use. With a hard top model would extend the tubing past the door opening as much as possible. The quarter panel support a lot of weight. More you can tie the square tubing into the quarter panel the stronger it will be.
Do you think you think it'll be easier to just buy the $400 complete rear sill from ccot
 
Having just fabbed my own rear sill from scratch as an experienced welder and fabricator (albeit with limited tools and resources now in a home garage)
I would say absolutely throw down the coin for a premade sill, especially if you need the notch for the weatherstrip.
What is your time worth?
 
Do you think you think it'll be easier to just buy the $400 complete rear sill from ccot

Depends on your sill level and time. I've never attempted a rear sill. Many because I have cruisers that have an intact rear sill. I have some old cruisers with rusted sill and latch for the barn doors is what is keeping the wheel wells together. 1/79 Toyota redesigned the sill and quarter panels. The rear sill still extends around the radius in the. The quarter panel extends under the sill aways and the goes over a section of the side of the wheel wells. This strengthens the weak section in the rear sill right below the end of the door opening. That is why I do not recommend doing just a butt weld with square tubing right at the end of the opening. For all the work involved in notching square tubing would just buy the correct 75-78 rear sill.
 
Do you think you think it'll be easier to just buy the $400 complete rear sill from ccot
You may have already made up your mind, but I just did a rear sill and bought it from CCOT. I would recommend it highly.

Here is the thread I made on HOW TO do it STEP BY STEP.

 

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