replacing plugs and wires....OEM vs aftermarket

[doctorJ]

I am sure the boards concensus will be to go with OEM, but wondered if there were still options when choosing Toyota products, I have a 97FZJ80. 115,000 miles now and with gas going over $2.00 a gallon( ) thought this might help a little?
Anything else people commonly do when they replace the plugs and wires? Seems like an easy 1/4 Memorial day slam-dunk.

thanks in advance

Jay

 

[cruiserdan]

Well,

It would be expected that I would prefer OEM ignition parts.


As I am not in the office at the moment I can't give you hard numbers but an OEM wire set lists for about 110 bucks and can be had for the low 80's. Spark plugs are about a buck and a half each. In the case of a vehicle with 115k miles and an unknown service history I would consider replacing the cap, wires, rotor, plugs, PCV valve and grommet and the air filter. That being said, you would be best served using OEM components regardless of where you get them from.

 

[Junk]

Julius, you'd definitely want to stick with OEM. Get hooked up with Cbizkit in his office and he'll do you up right.

 

[doctorJ]

Thanks for the advice. The airfilter is a K&N and I have cleaned and reoiled it. If our dealer is open tomorrow I'll price all that stuff, if not will email you (CDan) on Teusday to place an order.
Jay

 

[Daskoff]

If you have an ohm meter you might want to check the resistance of the wires. If they have a resistance of less than 25K ohms they should be fine. That $110 you'd spend on the wires should fill up you're gas tank at least three times. See, you're saving money on gas already. I've checked my wires on my truck with 75K miles and they ranged from 7K ohms to 17K ohms, shortest wire to the longest.

Adrian

 

[cruiserman]

Adrian's right. BTW, check OEM prices by looking at SOR's website.

 

[DRTDuck]

Yes, use OEM when you do all the above, and it is a good idea to do all of them. I did all these, except plug wires. at my 120K service last fall. As Daskoff did, I checked the resistance before I bought new ones. Mine were 8,8,10,12,15,18 at 120K. Will check them again at the end of the summer.

 

[barrypt5]

One quick question about replacing the spark plugs and wires, specifically with a '97, is it necessary to disconnect the air cleaner hose from the throttle body to make the change easier? The reason for hesitance was that I saw a thread just the other day where a guy ran into some problems when he was doing this PM...yeah he did have an older cruiser (~'93?) but just wanted to double check. thanks everyone

 

[wfd175]

Because of oily residue getting on the mass air flow sensor wire from oiled/overoiled K&N filters, The general Mud consensus is to go OEM on the air filter also.

Thanks for the advice. The airfilter is a K&N and I have cleaned and reoiled it. If our dealer is open tomorrow I'll price all that stuff, if not will email you (CDan) on Teusday to place an order.
Jay

 

[firetruck41]

Thanks for the advice. The airfilter is a K&N and I have cleaned and reoiled it. If our dealer is open tomorrow I'll price all that stuff, if not will email you (CDan) on Teusday to place an order.
Jay

Because of oily residue getting on the mass air flow sensor wire from oiled/overoiled K&N filters, The general Mud consensus is to go OEM on the air filter also.

Hopefully, in the three and a half years since he posted, he has recieved that air filter from CruiserDan!

 

[wfd175]

I would hope so. Good Catch.

I don't always check the initial thread start dates as I should. I'll just shut up now and crawl back into my hole.

 

[barrypt5]

One quick question about replacing the spark plugs and wires, specifically with a '97, is it necessary to disconnect the air cleaner hose from the throttle body to make the change easier? The reason for hesitance was that I saw a thread just the other day where a guy ran into some problems when he was doing this PM...yeah he did have an older cruiser (~'93?) but just wanted to double check. thanks everyone

Guys...I posted in this thread to show that I had done some searching for my question and came up empty...if someone could please comment on the above that is the real reason this thread was resurrected... thanks

 

[firetruck41]

Guys...I posted in this thread to show that I had done some searching for my question and came up empty...if someone could please comment on the above that is the real reason this thread was resurrected... thanks

I know, I just have nothing for ya... but a bump!

 

[SeanAndHis80]

>is it necessary to disconnect the air cleaner hose from the throttle body to make the change easier?

As I have only done it one way I cannot accurately answer your question. However doing the job without disconnecting the air cleaner hose is not that difficult at all on a '97.

 

[KliersLC]

Guys...I posted in this thread to show that I had done some searching for my question and came up empty...if someone could please comment on the above that is the real reason this thread was resurrected... thanks

Well, give it a try and tell us what you find......

What problems can one run into when taking the intake hose off?

What says the FSM?

 

[gray]

Easier and better to remove the intake hose (disconnect both ends), carefully not to bend it in the middle as it dries out and cracks, that way, you can inspect it. While that is out of the way you can disconnect and clean the MAF wires (if you dare, with the correct CRC cleaner), and can clean the butterfly/throttle body a bit, clean the air filter muffler/box, etc,etc. The air inake rubber hose is almost a preventive maintenance replacement after 10+/- years IMO. They all dry out and will crack at some point.

I also have wondered if there are any ignition wires out there that are any "better" than the OEM; but kinda doubt it. Talked to a few manufacturers of high performance wires; one-on-one they told me in a stock engine, no improvement in performance would be expected. I replaced my OEM wires when I first got my 80 with 75K on the clock, with OEM wires; now they have almost 170K on them and they seem fine, smooth idle, etc. Might check them for resistance as above, but based on others results, they probably will spec out good.

Good luck

 

[corsair23]

Guys...I posted in this thread to show that I had done some searching for my question and came up empty...if someone could please comment on the above that is the real reason this thread was resurrected... thanks

I'm not much help either other than what I recall reading about the issue.

As I recall it was recommended to use the spark plug socket tool that is in the tool kit to remove the spark plugs, especially #6. I also know that many people have busted their radiator trying to reach for the farther back plugs so be careful of that!

I'm sure I've also read where folks suggest removing the intake tube to gain additional working space. I believe the concern there is being careful around the MAF sensor and housing. But, having the intake tube off would also be a prime time to inspect it for cracks

If you are up to it, and since there is not a FAQ on this yet (that I could find), why not take pics as you go and start a FAQ for it? I know this is pretty basic stuff but there are a lot of folks on here (myself included) that can use all the help they can get when it comes to doing their own maintenance

 

[Brian Macgyver]

You can buy OEM from NGK in the aftermarket. But if you check prices, you will find Toyo to be less than the parts store on OE NGK ignition wires.