I'm planning to replace the engine oil pan gasket with a Toyota OE one. What other similar seals should I address while I'm under the truck, just for preventative maintenance? Other than PM, I've got what appears to be seepage at the engine/trans union and a bit at the front of the engine, dripping on the tie rod. Can I easily do anything about that? I'd like to limit this particular effort to not much more than dropping the oil pan.
Replacing oil pan gasket - what else while I'm there?
- Thread starter Super77
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Plan on replacing the entire old oil pan with a new one. It's not too expensive. If you don't, you'll wish you did about half way through trying to scrape off that old gasket. Darn near impossible.
If you get a new pan, it requires a different gasket, drain plug and drain plug gasket.
Even if you do decide to keep your old pan and finally get it bolted back up with a new gasket, it is still a 30 year old pan and could rust through from the inside out in the not too distant future.
My vote: replace the pan.
If you get a new pan, it requires a different gasket, drain plug and drain plug gasket.
Even if you do decide to keep your old pan and finally get it bolted back up with a new gasket, it is still a 30 year old pan and could rust through from the inside out in the not too distant future.
My vote: replace the pan.
Water vapor is produced during combustion when the engine is cold. That's why you see white steam blowing out the exhaust pipe and water dripping out in the morning. Water is heavier than oil and exhaust blow-by (from cold piston rings) ends up in the crank case & settles to the bottom of the oil pan.
If the oil isn't allowed to get hot for a extended period of time to vaporize that water in the bottom of the pan, the bottom of the pan on the inside can rust.
This is one of the reasons why the maintenance manual recommends replacing the motor oil every 6 months whether the engine is driven or not.
If the oil isn't allowed to get hot for a extended period of time to vaporize that water in the bottom of the pan, the bottom of the pan on the inside can rust.
This is one of the reasons why the maintenance manual recommends replacing the motor oil every 6 months whether the engine is driven or not.
Hi, I'd also look at the rear seal ,side cover gasket and front seal. Also clean the oil pump filter screen .All messy and time consuming. Sometimes the pans come off fine ,sometimes they get pretty bent , but never easy to get off. Mike
That and the welded on bash plate traps dirt and therefore moisture and eventually rusts through.
It’s pretty standard to pull some caps and check bearings while the pan’s off. I like to plastigage just to see if it’s in spec as well. That and check thrust bearing clearance. All kind of unnecessary if you don’t have any plan to get into it.
- Thread starter
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Here's some more intel. Perhaps some thoughts on the source of the leak before I tear into it?
Back of the oil pan. I think this suggests a seeping gasket?
Another view of the back of the pan, at the bell housing union. Lots of oil on the union. Gasket or RMS?
Front of the pan. Persistent leak dripping down on the tie rod. Gasket, or other possible source?
Read the half dozen threads on oil pan removal, like this one. Great info here. Getting hold of a heat gun, 2x4s, bottle jack, etc.
Back of the oil pan. I think this suggests a seeping gasket?
Another view of the back of the pan, at the bell housing union. Lots of oil on the union. Gasket or RMS?
Front of the pan. Persistent leak dripping down on the tie rod. Gasket, or other possible source?
Read the half dozen threads on oil pan removal, like this one. Great info here. Getting hold of a heat gun, 2x4s, bottle jack, etc.
At this point (30 year old truck) virtually all the gaskets and seals will be leaking. Replace any or all of them. They have all been in service beyond their expected life span. That drip in the front could just be the timing gear cover gasket (just- ha!). But it could also be the gasket behind the timing gear plate. Don't mess with that. It requires the cam to be pulled to replace it. Not worth it.
Oil pan gets blamed for a lot of leaks as oil follows gravity. Best to power wash with a degreaser to get a fresh place to start.
And then there's wind from going down the road blowing stuff rearward.
If you can start with some investigation before guessing. If the top of the motor is clean you're probably on the right track.
And then there's wind from going down the road blowing stuff rearward.
If you can start with some investigation before guessing. If the top of the motor is clean you're probably on the right track.
That and the welded on bash plate traps dirt and therefore moisture and eventually rusts through.
Like mine
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
Any leaking or spilled oil above pan line will find its way to the butt end of the engine. The VC gasket, side cover gasket, loose oil filter, leaking galley plug all can make huge messes and gather at your point of query.
First try snugging up the pan bolts, followed by checking the VC gasket for leaks, cranking down the oil filter some , tightening the side cover bolts, and checking for any other leaks. Clean it all with warm soapy water and a sponge rinse and let it all dry. Check for leaks with it off. Run it while checking for leaks. Shut it down and grab a bite to eat. Check it for leaks the drive it for a half hour and, check it for leaks.
Do this for a while, and you’ll find it beginning to gather back at the bell house. Then follow the trail back home. Side cover is a very good possibility. So is a Loose pan. My drain plug bung is damaged apparently and I’m trying to fix it with some fipg.... you need that stuff to do a pan BTW, anyway, what I’m seeing is a lot of oil on both sides of the bellhouse seems to be coming from my fubarred plug bing and blowing back and up onto everything.
This is slot before just diving into the pan, but you don’t want to go where you don’t have to.
Did I say you need fipg?
First try snugging up the pan bolts, followed by checking the VC gasket for leaks, cranking down the oil filter some , tightening the side cover bolts, and checking for any other leaks. Clean it all with warm soapy water and a sponge rinse and let it all dry. Check for leaks with it off. Run it while checking for leaks. Shut it down and grab a bite to eat. Check it for leaks the drive it for a half hour and, check it for leaks.
Do this for a while, and you’ll find it beginning to gather back at the bell house. Then follow the trail back home. Side cover is a very good possibility. So is a Loose pan. My drain plug bung is damaged apparently and I’m trying to fix it with some fipg.... you need that stuff to do a pan BTW, anyway, what I’m seeing is a lot of oil on both sides of the bellhouse seems to be coming from my fubarred plug bing and blowing back and up onto everything.
This is slot before just diving into the pan, but you don’t want to go where you don’t have to.
Did I say you need fipg?
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
Oh man I use a thin smear on both sides of the gasket these days...thin. But thicker in the corners and on the the end hoops... and what I’m really saying is make sure it is absolutely necessary to go so far in and that something else may not be at fault...
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Exactly... before I removed the head I had a persistent wet spot at the back of the head that I was sure was the head gasket leaking oil. Turned out that my VC nuts were only on finger tight so the entire thing was leaking. Once that was tightened up to about 10ftlbs the leak suddenly disappeared.
i had the rust between that weld-on plate and the bottom of the oil pan (photo above). The cure - when it was off, cleaned it very well and used JBWeld to seep down all four sides; one side at a time. If you have the $$$, just get the new pan. oh, and after 12-years or so - it's still ok.
Or if you the same disease I do you can reconstruct it with a separate bash plate with an air gap in there.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
^^^ that's awesome.
