- Thread starter
- #21
Thanks! I won't know if its good or not until I put it in (hopefully) this weekend. Work, work, work!
Hoping for smooth shifting from here on out!
Replacing my '03 LX470's Transmission (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 128keaton
- Start date
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Hoping for smooth shifting from here on out!
- Thread starter
- #22
So close I can taste it. Ran out of steam today, but I think tomorrow we will see if all the hard work will have been worth it.
4Runner V8 A750F which now has the LC/LX extension housing and brackets. Fun fact, the bellhousing and torque converter are the exact same (as they should be!)
One last look at a view that most Land Cruiser owners will never see:
Just ran out of steam today, exhausted! Just have to put the rear driveshaft, front swaybar, and the crossmember back in, along with all the plastic skids/covers and thats it. The torque converter was filled with roughly 2 qts of ATF, and the transmission was filled up with about 4 qts. Waiting to fire up and let it idle before adding more (as per the FSM).
So close!
Also, adding a dipstick is just as easy as swapping in the correct pan and adding the dipstick tube and actual dipstick. There were two breather lines running up into the lines on the dipstick tube.
4Runner V8 A750F which now has the LC/LX extension housing and brackets. Fun fact, the bellhousing and torque converter are the exact same (as they should be!)
One last look at a view that most Land Cruiser owners will never see:
Just ran out of steam today, exhausted! Just have to put the rear driveshaft, front swaybar, and the crossmember back in, along with all the plastic skids/covers and thats it. The torque converter was filled with roughly 2 qts of ATF, and the transmission was filled up with about 4 qts. Waiting to fire up and let it idle before adding more (as per the FSM).
So close!
Also, adding a dipstick is just as easy as swapping in the correct pan and adding the dipstick tube and actual dipstick. There were two breather lines running up into the lines on the dipstick tube.
- Thread starter
- #23
So, I am a bit paranoid about the fill process. I have roughly ~6 quarts between the torque converter and the pan, and according to Toyota, it looks like the total capacity is 16.69 quarts?
(I am assuming you add each of the quantities, right?)
So, should I just start the truck up and start adding fluid? The cooler and the subsequent lines are drained, so those are 100% empty. The breather line is attached thru the dipstick tube, so filling won't take long. I ordered 17 quarts of ATF, and 1 was used during re-assembly of the transmission (cleaning), so I guess I need to pick up another quart today. Just worried about the pump running dry while checking to refill and whatnot. Any suggestions? Or am I worried for nothing?
Also, I had to remove the sway-bar and brackets to drop the transmission, is there any trick to the sway-bar bracket bolts? PITA, if you ask me, to sit there with an open end wrench and thread it all the way down. Takes about 15 minutes to do both, without pausing for hand cramps.
The final list of things to do is as follows (for my own sake):
(I am assuming you add each of the quantities, right?)
So, should I just start the truck up and start adding fluid? The cooler and the subsequent lines are drained, so those are 100% empty. The breather line is attached thru the dipstick tube, so filling won't take long. I ordered 17 quarts of ATF, and 1 was used during re-assembly of the transmission (cleaning), so I guess I need to pick up another quart today. Just worried about the pump running dry while checking to refill and whatnot. Any suggestions? Or am I worried for nothing?
Also, I had to remove the sway-bar and brackets to drop the transmission, is there any trick to the sway-bar bracket bolts? PITA, if you ask me, to sit there with an open end wrench and thread it all the way down. Takes about 15 minutes to do both, without pausing for hand cramps.
The final list of things to do is as follows (for my own sake):
- Install Front Driveshaft
- Install Rear Driveshaft
- Install transmission mount on cross-member
- Install cross-member
- Install sway-bar (end-links and brackets)
- Install diff skid
- Install under-vehicle plastic panels
- Install engine cover
- Install shifter (in vehicle)
- Install center console (in vehicle)
- Start and fill (I hope?)
- Thread starter
- #25
Nothing helpful, as it only applies to a pan drain and refill. There aren't even instructions on how to do that in the manual. Taken from the 2003 LX470 Owner's Manual (available on drivers.lexus.com)
Are you familiar with the process to drain/ fill?
I can't help with the total capacity, but I would add some more so you have somewhere around 11-12 qts, that should eliminate any concerns about running the pump dry and also not overfill the trans. Start it up, shift through all gears, let it idle a bit, then pull the overflow plug and see if any comes out. If none comes out shut down and add 1-2 more quarts, repeat until fluid comes out of the overflow.
If fluid comes out of the overflow first try, then proceed with the normal drain/ fill procedures - jump the OBD, get the trans to temp, then pull the plug again. ATF expands as it heats up.
Just remember that the engine should be running when you pull the overflow plug, the fluid drains down into the pan when it is shut off.
I can't help with the total capacity, but I would add some more so you have somewhere around 11-12 qts, that should eliminate any concerns about running the pump dry and also not overfill the trans. Start it up, shift through all gears, let it idle a bit, then pull the overflow plug and see if any comes out. If none comes out shut down and add 1-2 more quarts, repeat until fluid comes out of the overflow.
If fluid comes out of the overflow first try, then proceed with the normal drain/ fill procedures - jump the OBD, get the trans to temp, then pull the plug again. ATF expands as it heats up.
Just remember that the engine should be running when you pull the overflow plug, the fluid drains down into the pan when it is shut off.
03 doesn't take type IV something is goofy with that screenshot, 03 takes WS.
- Thread starter
- #28
Nope. 03 takes T-IV, as it has a dipstick. WS was used 04+ without dipstick. I have a transmission from 2007 that used WS so I stuck with WS. I am worried about overfilling the trans initially, as I don’t think the trans unit itself can hold 12 quarts.
I also do not have an overflow plug, since once again, dipstick
- Thread starter
- #29
Well I'm driving an LX470 with a working transmission again! Success! The A750F from the 4Runner worked! Shifts very smoothly. Filled with 12.75 quarts (roughly) of ATF. No leaks so far! Super happy!
- Thread starter
- #30
I still think I need to rotate my DS 90*, as there is a bit of a 'grinding' vibration that is a very high frequency coming from the rear, but sometimes the front.. Was there before the transmission replacement. Also, the 'purring' vibration noise at 65+ is still there. I replaced the front u-joints with some AC-Delco RockAuto closeout special's, just to see if it would make a difference. Unless these are just really junk, I'm a bit stumped. I guess it could be something in the front or rear differential, since everything from the transmission to the differentials is in good shape or new. I did replace the rear transmission mount and that changed the vibration a bit, very tight vibration, easier to drive on the highway. I still need to replace the front diff bushings, that might help, but I digress.
Put about 65 miles on the new transmission, and the only two little bugs I've seen are: once just driving around low speed, it felt like it was skipping (torque converter, I guess? Remanned from a specialty ebay shop, looked great), and once the RPMs just rose real quick while shifting from 2nd to 3rd, but it was a quick and smooth recovery. Checking the ATF levels as I drive, so far so good though.
Put about 65 miles on the new transmission, and the only two little bugs I've seen are: once just driving around low speed, it felt like it was skipping (torque converter, I guess? Remanned from a specialty ebay shop, looked great), and once the RPMs just rose real quick while shifting from 2nd to 3rd, but it was a quick and smooth recovery. Checking the ATF levels as I drive, so far so good though.
- Thread starter
- #32
Close to $2k, closer to $3k if I did an OEM replacement. There’s a part of me that wants to find a wrecked Tacoma (pre-2013 v6 has the A750F iirc) with low miles just to see if it’s the same transmission. But that’s more money and time.
Speaking of, does anyone need anything for their A750F? I have my old one in pieces.
- Thread starter
- #33
I've been noticing some bad vibrations in the driveline at idle. Running some seafoam thru the engine since it has sat for almost two weeks. I also wonder if the motor mounts need to be replaced now, since we were jacking up the whole trans/engine unit a couple of times for alignment/removal/replacement. My helper noticed the center bolt on the new trans mount was loose, and tightened it, maybe that was a mistake?
GOOD JOB Keaton! You've confirmed a number of speculation on swaps. From the simple adding a dip stick that many would like to have, to the more complicated.
I didn't notice. Did you flush out your cooler and cooler lines before install?
I didn't notice. Did you flush out your cooler and cooler lines before install?
- Thread starter
- #35
Thanks! I really appreciate the kind words. Super happy to actually contribute something of value to Mud (well, hopefully). I did, I used the LUBE GUARD flush you recommended. Worked great. AISIN WS Fluid is much cheaper on RockAuto than getting it from Toyota BTW. Great stuff.
@128keaton This looks great - I do have a few quick questions for you regarding the grunt of the work --- I am in process right now of having to replace my transmission, as my radiator failed and pulled coolant into the transmission causing the strawberry milkshake of death.
I am going to be doing most of the work without a lift -- any recommendations or "pro-tips" for removing the transmission underneath the car?
How did you manage the shear size of the tranny? did you have a specific lift or can I go with the Transmission jack at harbor frieght?
Thanks in advance for the help, I am pulling a tranny tomorrow from a friend so looking for advice!
I am going to be doing most of the work without a lift -- any recommendations or "pro-tips" for removing the transmission underneath the car?
How did you manage the shear size of the tranny? did you have a specific lift or can I go with the Transmission jack at harbor frieght?
Thanks in advance for the help, I am pulling a tranny tomorrow from a friend so looking for advice!
- Thread starter
- #37
Make sure to have a helper working the transmission with you. I bought the $100 Hazard Fraught (Harbor Freight) special, but I used another 2 ton car jack to supplement the transmission (mainly managing the transfer case). Getting the transmission out from underneath the car involved sliding the transmission off the jack and into a piece of Plywood to slide it around. The strap on the HF jack was honestly useless. I removed it and used a ratchet strap since I could easily tighten.
Just be very, very careful. The HF jack goes down dangerously fast. I’d honestly find a quality jack that will handle the full weight.
Thank you - that is great advice and got me thinking about getting it into the back of my truck -- what are we talking weight-wise in order to lift it? Any advice there in terms of moving around?
- Thread starter
- #39
Me and my dad could move it fairly well between us after separating the transfer case from the transmission. We set the transmission down, flywheel side on a stool with a hole through the center. The output shaft was at the very bottom, sticking through the hole so the transmission would stay level.
The cheapest harbor freight jack had a 400lbs capacity and that was barely enough imho.
Furniture Dolly’s worked just fine, though we did scuff the pan once or twice sliding the transmission on and off them.
With your “new” transmission, I’d recommend replacing the filter and solenoids, bare minimum.
@128keaton Hope it still working will and shift normally.
I'm trying to help diagnose a leak. The leak may be at adapter case. It's on a 06LX ,so fill plug is on the adapter case. I suspect the 03 is very similar to the 06 other than fill plug.
If you can post pictures of your adapter case inside, front, back, etc.. It would be very helpfully.
I'm trying to help diagnose a leak. The leak may be at adapter case. It's on a 06LX ,so fill plug is on the adapter case. I suspect the 03 is very similar to the 06 other than fill plug.
If you can post pictures of your adapter case inside, front, back, etc.. It would be very helpfully.
