Replacing gaskets, what else? (1 Viewer)

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MT Economist

MT Economist

Joined
May 11, 2009
Threads
7
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73
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
My 62 is marking its teritory in the driveway and the dogs are getting jelous, so I am going to change:

*oil pan gasket
*valve cover gasket
*timing chain cover gasket
*side cover gasket (if there is a side cover)

and it has an exhaust leak so I was going to replace the manifold gasket and make sure the manifold is flat.

While I have the radiator out and the lines drained for the timing chain I am going to put in a core heater. It also needs a thermostat.

I would prefer to only have to take everything off one time and drain the cooling system once. Is there anything else that wears out that I should replace while I have it apart and have access? Anything else, like a transmission cooler? There is nothing else that I know of but I would rather do the work now than when something goes wrong. It will also be a good bonding experience.
 
Do I have to pull the engine for that? I do not have a engine hoist but could probaly borrow one. (When I order the parts I am going to order an FSM so I do not know that answer yet.)
 
MT Economist said:
Do I have to pull the engine for that? I do not have a engine hoist but could probaly borrow one. (When I order the parts I am going to order an FSM so I do not know that answer yet.)
Click to expand...

No, but tranny has to come out for the Rear Main Seal.
 
If your oil galley plug in the engine head has not been converted to a threaded plug, you should consider doing that (Search Oil Galley Plug). There are a few small hoses around the water pump and thermostat housing that are a bitch to get to. You might want to replace them. For that little curved one I would recommend getting the OEM. Cruiser Dan's price is $4 plus the ride but it may be easier to go to Ressler's.. How's your radiator? Might be a good time to take it for a flush and get someone to put in a better drain plug (see best mods for under $50). Also, good time to split the fan shroud so that you can take the top half off.
 
there's actually no "timing chain"

I'd do ALL the hoses and belts, in addition to everything above except the rear seal as that's abit more involved.

call if you need pointers.

Paul
 
x2 on the pulling of the motor. You will thank us later. Get a engine gasket kit that includes ever thing.....seals and all. It will not take that much more time and it will be by far ....easy....but yea get help for the removel process and get the load leveler that Harbor Freaight sells. It will make life:D easy.
 
:beer:
Heartworm said:
If your oil galley plug in the engine head has not been converted to a threaded plug, you should consider doing that (Search Oil Galley Plug). There are a few small hoses around the water pump and thermostat housing that are a bitch to get to. You might want to replace them. For that little curved one I would recommend getting the OEM. Cruiser Dan's price is $4 plus the ride but it may be easier to go to Ressler's.. How's your radiator? Might be a good time to take it for a flush and get someone to put in a better drain plug (see best mods for under $50). Also, good time to split the fan shroud so that you can take the top half off.
Click to expand...
 
I am starting to get excited

I was a little intimidated at first, but with all of the advice above I am getting excited to get working on it. As long as I take my time everything should go pretty well. I have read about how to do all of this stuff in the abstract, but now I will actually get to do it:bounce:.
 
:beer:
MT Economist said:
I was a little intimidated at first, but with all of the advice above I am getting excited to get working on it. As long as I take my time everything should go pretty well. I have read about how to do all of this stuff in the abstract, but now I will actually get to do it:bounce:.
Click to expand...
 
How bad is this?

So I replaced all of the gaskets. I misread the FSM on the torque for the oil pan as 69 FT/lbs instead of in/lbs. Broke the head off of the rear - drivers side bolt. I drilled it out and retapped the hole. Thinking I might be lucky, I put it all back together and drove around the block. It is leaking now, so obviously the gasket is bad. But there is also smoke comming out of the back of the oil pan, what have I done?

I had to take out the distributor for the side cover. If the timing is a little off, would that cause there to be more smoke?

Is it the unburned emissions that are recycled through the PCV valve escaping?

I did not get the engine up to temp becasue I was looking for oil, so it is not spilled oil that is burning.

Did I mess something up, or will a new oil pan gasket fix this?
 
If you put that kind of torque on those little bolts, that gasket is toast. Time to pull the pan, clean up, and get another gasket. Get the 1-piece cork one. Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters has a good gasket; it worked better than the OEM one I used on the other rig. I doubt that you have done anything drastically wrong with your stuff. Get your timing set as soon as you can, at least get it in the ball park. Glad that you got the broken bolt out. I suspect that most of the people tighten those oil pan bolts by feel. Who's go the money for an inch/pound torque wrench??? People on here have suggested that you start tightening the bolts in the middle of the engine first and alternate out to the ends and do it in steps. You should recheck them in a day or so. I have had good luck putting the gasket on the pan with HiTack cement and letting it set over night. Used clothes pins and a bunch of small bolts to temporarily hold it in place.
 
Thanks.

I pulled the oil pan and the cork gasket was not in the grove at the back of the engine. No wonder it was not working out for me. I already ordered one and it will be in on Wednesday. I was not too worried about the oil because I know I messed up the gasket (and it was not installed right:doh:), but any ideas on the smoke. That is what freaked me out.

I will put it back together and then bring it in to someone that can get the timing dead on. I don't have a timing light and want to get it back on the road. I miss driving a land cruiser.
 
Low end timing lights are about $30. I suspect that the price will nearly equal what you will pay someone. Buy a light and do it yourself, then you have the light from now on.... Economics 101
 
I got the economics down, just not sure about the wrenching part. In economics you are rarely in a position to harm an innocent land cruiser. If I get this wrong there could be some real consequences.

It sounds easy, but then I just put 12x the torque I should on an oilpan bolt.

Since nobody mentioned the smoke I am assuming it is a non-issue?
 
...about the smoke, it's not a non-issue, but for me at least, there's not enough detail about where it's coming from and if it's not warmed up, what's smoking?

I re-read the post, originally thought it might be just the oil you'd gotten on the manifold or other parts during reassembly, did you get any on the exhaust manifold or pipe? That heats up real quick and will smoke and then go away after a short while.

Dan.
 
If you are smoking the oil return on the passenger backside of the head may have some blockage. Try cleaning it out.
 
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