replacing fusible links with fuses

itbrokeagain

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Other than finding the right fuse for the fusible link is there any other problem with this? Seems like it would be much more user friendly. Especially out in the middle of nowhere
 
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I don't think there is any reason you couldn't build a fuse box - lots of modern cars have a box full of strip fuses under the hood.

The trick would be knowing the rating of each link you are replacing.
 
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My thought was ease of seeing what blew and ease of being able to find a replacement part. Just thinking

The fusible links should only fail (other than age) if there is a wiring short/failure between them and the fuses in the vehicle. The fuses are meant to blow if something down stream shorts out. It's a hierarchy to firstly protect the wiring from going up in smoke and secondly to prevent the device (if the failure is not wiring related) from going up in smoke.

If the vehicle manufacturers thought a fuse would be a better solution they would have put a fuse in place of the fusible link. In cases like this, unless you really understand all the electrical/load aspects of meddling with a proven system, it is a smart choice to leave things as they are.

As mentioned, a fusible link can sustain short high current surges without 'blowing' unlike a fuse. Again, the fusible link is there to protect the wiring harness leading to the fuse panels. It will blow to protect that wiring from melting/catching on fire.

Consider also what happens when something goes really wrong - vehicle accident where part of the harness is pinched and shorted to the body/chassis... These are considerations that are design for my the OEM - most of our after market additions to consider these worst case initiated failures.

cheers,
george.
 
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The fusible links should only fail (other than age) if there is a wiring short/failure between them and the fuses in the vehicle. The fuses are meant to blow if something down stream shorts out. It's a hierarchy to firstly protect the wiring from going up in smoke and secondly to prevent the device (if the failure is not wiring related) from going up in smoke.

If the vehicle manufacturers thought a fuse would be a better solution they would have put a fuse in place of the fusible link. In cases like this, unless you really understand all the electrical/load aspects of meddling with a proven system, it is a smart choice to leave things as they are.

As mentioned, a fusible link can sustain short high current surges without 'blowing' unlike a fuse. Again, the fusible link is there to protect the wiring harness leading to the fuse panels. It will blow to protect that wiring from melting/catching on fire.

Consider also what happens when something goes really wrong - vehicle accident where part of the harness is pinched and shorted to the body/chassis... These are considerations that are design for my the OEM - most of our after market additions to consider these worst case initiated failures.

cheers,
george.

I doubt I could have said this any better. Fuses are substantially different than fusible links, as noted, and these key differences are why the fusible links are utilized where they are. It is not an engineering mistake or Mr. T being cheap. Chances are any fuse that could effectively handle the necessary power surges (in the links location) would not adequately protect the car's wiring.

Interestingly, I just put a second spare set of fusible links in my 80 this afternoon. Good job George.
 

itbrokeagain

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I have been stranded 3 times by bad fusible links. A 90 wrangler, an 86 Nissan hardbody pickup and an 86 mercury cougar. Never was able to find a fault on any of those vehicles. The roadside fix was always bypass the link to get me wherever and then I installed an inline fuse holder and a fuse. It was never an easy diagnosis especially on the side of the road and in the woods. I understand Mr. T does things for a reason and I will leave well enough alone and pack extra links if that's the better solution. Just trying to set everything up so I'm not stranded miles out in the woods somewhere.
 
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Yep. Cheaper easier simpler to replace your existing set now as PM and keep a second new set in your spares kit.

Or if you're super thrifty keep the old set as a spare.
 
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part #'s for fusible links?
 

Gray Rider

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The knowledge level in this forum is always Impressive! :)
 

CruiseOrlando

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The knowledge level in this forum is always Impressive! :)

I think all the questions have already been asked, it's just a matter of regurgitation at this point... :D
 

1973Guppie

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couldn't one find some type of "slow blow" fuse? I know these are commonly used on printed circuit boards but unsure whether they make them for the type of amperage that our trucks use? I would think if someone could figure out the specifics of what the fusible link blows at they could find an easy replacement slow blow fuse to put in there. The problem I see with the fusible links is even if they look ok, they can be bad. At least with a fuse it shows when it is blown.
 

alia176

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As a matter of course, I'd suggest to all 80 owners to replace their fusible links with new one and carry the old one as spare. Our rigs are getting long in the tooth and gremlins will start to pop up at the most inopportune time.

The engine harness has turned into crispy critter in several places and some sensors are probably at the end of their life span. If you're going to be buried with your 80, like me for instance, I'd have a schedule of r/r all sensors and some of the more important relays.
 
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couldn't one find some type of "slow blow" fuse? I know these are commonly used on printed circuit boards but unsure whether they make them for the type of amperage that our trucks use? I would think if someone could figure out the specifics of what the fusible link blows at they could find an easy replacement slow blow fuse to put in there. The problem I see with the fusible links is even if they look ok, they can be bad. At least with a fuse it shows when it is blown.

They do make other styles of fusible links. It'd just require some wiring.
 

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