Replacing front control arm bushings (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Mar 20, 2010
Threads
81
Messages
477
Location
North Little Rock, AR
About to tackle my front control arm bushings. Planning to either burn or drill out the rubber and cut the rings with a sawzall. Thoughts? Tips?

Also will a 12 ton press be enough to press them in? Tips?

Thanks for any help!
 
20 ton is better. Fairly easy to push in but took a lot of pressure even with 20 ton to push out. Fairly easy for me to just press out rubber then cut metal ring.
 
Restate, it took quite a bit of effort to push entire bushing with ring out. This was after finding the perfect sized socket. It was much easier to use a smaller socket to just push out rubber and then cut out ring
 
Putting new bushing in freezer night before also helped out
 
Pushing out the center only first and then carefully cutting the outer ring is easy. Think I used a hack saw blade by hand. You can peel the outer sleeve out with pliers and a punch after you remove the rubber and cut the sleeve.
Just a bit of light hand sanding in the control arm, to clean it a bit, and I believe the 12 ton will push them back in. Based on my experience for what it's worth.
Remember to orientate the bushings correctly before yo send 'em home.
 
Same approach here, push out rubber, cut the sleeve, lightly clean up the bush holes with emery flap wheel, deburr the edge of the hole, a light smear of grease helps them slide in.
I use a little 4tonne press and have had no issue putting new ones in. 4tonne is not even close for removing complete old bushes.
 
Appreciate all the replies. I’m sure I’ll figure out a way to screw it up!

Does anyone know the right size socket to use for pressing them in (as long as I grind the edges)? Sorry @NLXTACY, looks like your kit is back ordered plus I don’t have the bones for that kit right now anyway (although it looks nice).
 
Appreciate all the replies. I’m sure I’ll figure out a way to screw it up!

Does anyone know the right size socket to use for pressing them in (as long as I grind the edges)? Sorry @NLXTACY, looks like your kit is back ordered plus I don’t have the bones for that kit right now anyway (although it looks nice).

Nope, back in stock. But no worries ;)
 
If you choose to press the bushing out -

1) Put some pressure on with the press. The whole press might look and feel like it's tensing up like a spring. It is.
2) Hit the SIDE of the suspension member sharply with a ball peen hammer. At 90 degrees to the pressure.
It's likely to release the built up pressure, like a gunshot going off, and move your bushing by 1/4 inch or so.
You are creating an acoustic wave in the structure, reducing the metal to metal grip.

Wear face shield and protective gear, and stand clear, best you can. There is scary energy storage going on.

You might get your lighter press to do the job this way. Maybe.

Works for tie rod ends too.
 
I used a 12t press for removing and inserting new bushings. It worked fine.. but a 20t would be preferable. If like me you have a 12t.. heat the bushing and surrounding part of the control arm with a propane torch not set super high. Remove the torch after it is pretty warm but not scorching hot. Spray PB Blaster all around the bushing interface and let sit for 30m or so. The heat will help the PB draw down into the fit between bushing and control arm.

Wipe up the excess PB.. and try to push the bushing out. No luck.. use the torch to apply serious heat while continuing to apply pressure. It WILL come out.. even with a 12t press!

When I used to be a tech on a German brand of vehicle.. it was taught in the school to use heat such as a propane torch to help tight fitting alloy components separate. Since we didn't have to worry about a judicious application of heat on finely machined castings.. I don't think you could put enough heat on a cast iron control arm to hurt it.
 
I used a 12t press for removing and inserting new bushings. It worked fine.. but a 20t would be preferable. If like me you have a 12t.. heat the bushing and surrounding part of the control arm with a propane torch not set super high. Remove the torch after it is pretty warm but not scorching hot. Spray PB Blaster all around the bushing interface and let sit for 30m or so. The heat will help the PB draw down into the fit between bushing and control arm.

Wipe up the excess PB.. and try to push the bushing out. No luck.. use the torch to apply serious heat while continuing to apply pressure. It WILL come out.. even with a 12t press!

When I used to be a tech on a German brand of vehicle.. it was taught in the school to use heat such as a propane torch to help tight fitting alloy components separate. Since we didn't have to worry about a judicious application of heat on finely machined castings.. I don't think you could put enough heat on a cast iron control arm to hurt it.

Unless I'm mistaken, the control arms are steel forgings. And you can soften them with too much heat. Maybe not with a propane torch (propane burns hot enough, but you'd have to use most of the bottle and you'd melt the bushing first), but a heat gun would be safer.
 
I just did my front control arm to frame bushings. They were very easy. I was able to drive them out with my airhammer and got them I stalled with a snap on ball joint press. I love working on my rust free desert truck.
 
@Malleus my bad.. yes they are steel forging. Writing something late at night when you are down with the latest bug probably doesn't help when espousing technical knowledge.

In reference to heating the forging with a propane torch. The casting is SO large the heat disappears extremely fast. Using an IR temp gauge I was sort of surprised as to how much propane heat was applied versus the actual heat retained by forging. In my opinion at no time was the heat being applied in danger of causing any problem to the integrity of the metal. Since it has been awhile.. my old brain hasn't retained the actual temp degrees. However it was enough to loosen the bushing and provide a gall free removal.

For what it is worth.. I never saw an alloy casting or more than likely a forging damaged with just the right amount of heat. I am willing to bet my old special crescent that a heat gun in those specific instances would not of provided enough heat for the job.

As most of us know never use a sledge hammer when a small amount of forethought produces a better outcome!
 
Two words: HARBOR FREIGHT. Their 20 Ton press is $149. With a 20% off coupon, even less. You will spend 1/2 the time buying, assembling and using their press than mother-%#!*£¥ your way through burning, hammering, cutting and grinding. Take it from someone who knows. Path of least resistance!
 
Two words: HARBOR FREIGHT. Their 20 Ton press is $149. With a 20% off coupon, even less. You will spend 1/2 the time buying, assembling and using their press than mother-%#!*£¥ your way through burning, hammering, cutting and grinding. Take it from someone who knows. Path of least resistance!
I’ve given that A LOT of thought but if I can get them out myself my buddy has a 12 ton that I can use so I won’t be out any more dough.

In addition I’m moving into an apartment next weekend (while I build my new house) and have nowhere to put a press... but I will in my new shop!!

Thanks for all the replies. Gonna try to drill/cut them out and then use the 12 ton to press them back in.
 
I’ve given that A LOT of thought but if I can get them out myself my buddy has a 12 ton that I can use so I won’t be out any more dough.

In addition I’m moving into an apartment next weekend (while I build my new house) and have nowhere to put a press... but I will in my new shop!!

Thanks for all the replies. Gonna try to drill/cut them out and then use the 12 ton to press them back in.
I've always put mine in the living room. But I live with my tools...
 
I’ve given that A LOT of thought but if I can get them out myself my buddy has a 12 ton that I can use so I won’t be out any more dough.

In addition I’m moving into an apartment next weekend (while I build my new house) and have nowhere to put a press... but I will in my new shop!!

Thanks for all the replies. Gonna try to drill/cut them out and then use the 12 ton to press them back in.
A 20-ton press makes short work of opening tuna cans. It’s a legit kitchen appliance. Just sayin...
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom