Replacing 2UZ-FE motor (1 Viewer)

[ibis1969]

Hello FJ100 forum-
I am a long-term FJ60 owner and as a result, primarily stay in that side of the IH8MUD forum. Recently, a close friend of mine who has a 1999 FJ100 asked my advice for replacing its motor (~300,000 miles) and recovering its front seats. He bought the rig new off the dealer lot before having children. Two of his four have now driven the truck before going to college and he would like to update the rig before the first of his next two gets into driving age in the next 12 months.

The simple question I would like to ask the IH8MUD FJ100 contributors is what is best for updating a used 2UZ-FE motor? Is it buying a new crate motor? Is it buying a remanufactured motor? Or, is it pulling the existing motor and having it rebuilt? Budget is a consideration, but the more important factor is what strategy will add another 10-20 years of life to the vehicle?

For any of the suggested recommendations, vendor referrals are much appreciated. We are both in the Charleston, SC area.

Lastly, any recommendations on seat recovering kits are much appreciated as well.

Thanks so much in advance to all who respond.

Sincerely,
-ibis1969

 

[hickuptruck]

No need for a new motor. It's a million mile engine.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

What is the thought process behind wanting to replace/rebuild? These aren’t 1FZs that need head jobs and/or rebuilds every 250k miles. As @hickuptruck said, the 2uz is a 1-mil mile engine. Just do a baseline on it and it should be good to go.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Ridies for leather and unless something's wrong with the motor, there's no need for a proactive rebuild.

(and it's a UZJ, not an FJ)

 

[bigredmachine]

if theres no issues with the motor just do the t-belt, water pump and related components. is he having some sort of issue with the engine that would require a rebuild or just looking for options

 

[willyroo]

What is the thought process behind wanting to replace/rebuild? These aren’t 1FZs that need head jobs and/or rebuilds every 250k miles. As @hickuptruck said, the 2uz is a 1-mil mile engine. Just do a baseline on it and it should be good to go.

True dat

Million mile 2UZ with engine at 98%

 

[ibis1969]

I appreciate the responses!

Besides t-belt & water pump, what other components should potentially replaced at this stage? Is there any part of the fuel injection system or ignition system that has a history of failure?

Additionally, the owner plans on a transmission rebuild and replacing shocks & springs.

-ibis1969

 

[Trunk Monkey]

If the guy's looking to spend money, he certainly can find things to replace. I'd maybe point to the heater t's and possibly the starter/fuel filter and pump.

PM tranny rebuild? That's a new one too.

 

[trdcorolla]

If the guy's looking to spend money, he certainly can find things to replace. I'd maybe point to the heater t's and possibly the starter/fuel filter and pump.

PM tranny rebuild? That's a new one too.

This, might as well add valve cover gaskets, starter, spark plugs, alternator, pcv valve, bearings, pulleys, idlers, all rubber hoses, steering rack bushings, front diff bushings, suspension bushings (front/rear uca, lca), cv's, new hub flange, ball joints, tie rods, exhaust manifolds if they are ticking, repack front bearings, rebuild/adj rear parking brake and a lot more, that's just off the top of my head. These should make the 100 drive like new, use oem parts. If it's a LX add new AHC globes and fluid.

 

[jLB]

I appreciate the responses!

Besides t-belt & water pump, what other components should potentially replaced at this stage? Is there any part of the fuel injection system or ignition system that has a history of failure?

Additionally, the owner plans on a transmission rebuild and replacing shocks & springs.

-ibis1969

I know nothing about this vehicle or its history, but in my opinion, your friend is looking mostly at the wrong places to refurbish his older vehicle.

Shocks & rear coils might make sense.

Unless these things have already been done, I’d be looking more at cooling system plastic/rubber, suspension bushings, front differential bushings, steering rack bushings, engine/trans mounts, TRE, ball joints, CV axles, drive flanges, U joints, etc, and replace those things that need to be replaced, than rebuilding a working transmission or engine.

 

[bigredmachine]

I appreciate the responses!

Besides t-belt & water pump, what other components should potentially replaced at this stage? Is there any part of the fuel injection system or ignition system that has a history of failure?

Additionally, the owner plans on a transmission rebuild and replacing shocks & springs.

-ibis1969

do the idlers and tensioner for the t-belt. theres not one particular fail point like coils or injectors at that age that sticks out. maybe do the starter as thats located under the intake manifold and not a quick replacement.
i would put more attention on soft parts like coolant hoses, going through the brake lines both hard and soft for rust or cracking and just put the money towards normal matainence

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Is there any part of the fuel injection system or ignition system that has a history of failure?

Not really failure but at 300k miles it would be a good idea to pull all the injectors, have them cleaned, and replace the o-rings and grommets with new. Fuel pump will die eventually so might as well replace it preventatively along with the fuel filter.

Only issue with the ignition is that the lock rod inside the cylinder can break, so you could preventatively replace that too.

Really the only big ticket item worth replacing, if it hasn’t been done, is the hydraulic brake booster + master cylinder assembly, which will run $1500-2000 depending on where you buy it from.

Besides t-belt & water pump, what other components should potentially replaced at this stage?

If you’re gonna do those, then replace all of the coolant hoses (radiator hoses, heater hoses, oil cooler hoses) and heater Ts. Good idea to replace the radiator while you’re in there, if it hasn’t already been done in the last 100k miles.

 

[AlpineAccess]

He should be looking at replacing cooling hoses and other rubber first. Do all the suspension, steering, and some drive line bushings and he may think it's a new vehicle. No need to do anything to fuel system etc. Just do timing belt, tensioner, pulleys. If fan assembly hasn't been done it's a good idea. At that mileage it's likely the idler and tensioner pulleys on the serpentine belt have been done but I'd check them for serviceability.

Put some fuel system cleaner in a number of times and replace fluids. Do some spark plugs.

I carry a spare fuel pump, alternator, and two coil packs. But I'm not about to proactively replace them.

My power steering pump started whining a little on cold mornings and so I did fluid and have kept an eye on it. That was 4 years ago now and it just keeps going fine.

 

[Mike NXP]

I appreciate the responses!

Besides t-belt & water pump, what other components should potentially replaced at this stage? Is there any part of the fuel injection system or ignition system that has a history of failure?

Additionally, the owner plans on a transmission rebuild and replacing shocks & springs.

-ibis1969

Now your just getting wild. What's wrong with the transmission?


All of the critical parts on the 100 can be maintained to last for a long time and don't require preventative rebuilds. Sounds like the owner is ready to dump some money into this rig so just take others advice and just start replacing s***. Might as well just pull the motor since he wanted to rebuild anyway and just replace all the wear item parts you can get your hands on.

Starter, injectors, plugs, coils, hoses, fluids, all timing belt and accessory belt components. Service transmission fluid. Then move on to suspension and interior fixes. Don't rebuild if it's not broke, just maintain it.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

No need to do anything to fuel system

I strongly disagree. At 205k miles all of my injector o-rings, grommets, and insulators were hard and brittle, and one injector had poor flow. Just a matter of time before a leak sprung and burned the truck to the ground. Plus the Toyota spec’d service interval for fuel filter replacement is 25-30k miles.

 

[Patassa]

True dat

Million mile 2UZ with engine at 98%

Gotta say, this toyota engineer was interested in probably the least interesting things for me. The driver's seat and the body welds. Also, why's he wearing a hard hat?

 

[76lcmike]

Now your just getting wild. What's wrong with the transmission?


All of the critical parts on the 100 can be maintained to last for a long time and don't require preventative rebuilds. Sounds like the owner is ready to dump some money into this rig so just take others advice and just start replacing s***. Might as well just pull the motor since he wanted to rebuild anyway and just replace all the wear item parts you can get your hands on.

Starter, injectors, plugs, coils, hoses, fluids, all timing belt and accessory belt components. Service transmission fluid. Then move on to suspension and interior fixes. Don't rebuild if it's not broke, just maintain it.

he must have owned a forb exploder previously

 

[jLB]

Plus the Toyota spec’d service interval for fuel filter replacement is 25-30k miles.

I thought the Toyota/Lexus (dealership service department) line on the LC/LX 80/100 fuel filter was “It’s a lifetime part”, not that I actually believe that, but 25-30k seems low, or maybe I’m misremembering…

 

[robmobile73]

I believe I have that same engine in my Tundra with 250K. I did a timing belt and water pump at about 225K. The top of the radiator blew off and I replaced it at about 210K with thermostat. Power steering pump failed after 200K. Belt tensioner at about 190K. I have a weaping head gasket that has been living on stop leak for maybe 50K miles now. In tank fuel pump has been replaced. Other than that the only thing to periodically fail(once every 3-4 years?) is 1 coil on plug unit will start to miss.(5 min repair and not expensive. I keep a spare in the truck). ......................It is a beautiful(uncluttered), powerful, wonderfull running, fairly efficient, and very dependable engine. I'd drive it till it blows and then source another one with lower miles from a wrecked vehicle.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I thought the Toyota/Lexus (dealership service department) line on the LC/LX 80/100 fuel filter was “It’s a lifetime part”, not that I actually believe that, but 25-30k seems low, or maybe I’m misremembering…

The manual says 24k miles for 2uz without three-way cat, 48k miles for 2uz with three-way cat.

So the 25-30k I stated earlier off the top of my head was wrong. Fuel filter should be changed every 48k miles. Either way, it’s not a lifetime part by any means.