Replacing 2004 Timing Belt (1 Viewer)

[Infinity00]

Changing my timing belt on a 2004 470.
Prep: watch @OTRAMM 4.7 timing belt videos about 4 times each over the last couple years. Read FSM.

Begin and follow Otramm up until removing the timing belt. At that point the FSM varies from him and he says follow your book. To remove, the book says to move the crankshaft 50 degrees before TDC. This requires you to move it counter clockwise (for the record Otramm moves his 50 deg after TDC, which is clockwise 50 deg).

Remove the belt and the cams jump wildly. Well, that’s weird, you’d think I was rotating them to get them off tension.

Moving along, to put the new belt on the FSM says to move the cams and crankshaft back to the TDC position! What? Why didn’t I just leave it there in the first place? I moved my cams back to where the alignment was at the l position and the crank notch to the nub on the oil pump body, which should be TDC #1. No tension on the cams now and hey were all three easy to move so I don’t think I was hitting anything.

Most things I’ve read said not to worry too much as long as everything is aligned and the marks on the timing belt match the correct marks on the cams and crank after spinning everything a couple more revolutions, but why go thru these steps when I could have removed and replaced at TDC without the cams moving. Pictures below show where I’m at now with TDC alignment to put the belt back on per the FSM.

Has anyone done this and can explain why I’d have to move it 50 deg BTDC to remove it (notch of crank at 12 o’clock) with cams at their respective positions, but then move it back to TDC to put it back on (notch at 2 o’clock) and cams aligned to l Mark. I’m not totally trusting the FSM steps but I have nothing else to follow. Any comments appreciated.

 

[Infinity00]

Here’s the instructions for removal:

And below is the instruction for installation:

I have it aligned like this now to remove the cams to get to the seals and then after replacing the weeping seals I’ll put the belt on in this position which is TDC for #1

 

[Infinity00]

I’m also replacing my cam seals because they look like this

 

[Infinity00]

Underneath the cam seal cover I found some unexpected dried coolant. Who knows where it would be coming from??? Is one of my freeze plugs bad?

 

[Rednexus]

You might try the 100-series Land Cruiser forum instead. It's a bit more active than the GX forum in terms of engine questions/responses.

 

[Infinity00]

No kidding! I’m shocked at the lack of response here. I’m used to the 60 forum. Thanks for the heads up!

after removing my cam seal cover I’ve uncovered a small coolant leak from somewhere. At first I was concerned it was from the freeze plug but I decided to just replace the group of 3 way hoses and clamps that come off the throttle body to the t-stat housing and the oil filter body. It could be a leak from the hose pipe at the throttle body, and I’m replacing the gaskets at the coolant crossover bypass pipe that sits below the throttle body just to cover my bases. It’s really hard to see where it’s coming from.

 

[Alleycats]

Yeah bro, gettin after it!

 

[Rednexus]

For the crossover pipe gaskets, get Fel-Pros instead of OEM Toyota. They are exactly the same and made in Japan just like OEM (probably in the same factory) and are half the cost. Fel-Pro exhaust gaskets are the same - identical to OEM and Japanese, but half the cost.

 

[rommelrommel]

There’s a form in place gasket up there off the thermostat that‘s known to go, and there’s another seal that goes eventually too. They can both leak like that. Might as well do both. It’s these two.

 

[Infinity00]

I ended up replacing all those plus all the small coolant hoses. It was on the drivers side so I don’t think it was the form in place gasket, but I appreciate the tip. The gasket on the water pump looked like it had failed but the pump itself seemed good still. Been driving it for a couple days and everything seems good.

I wouldn’t hesitate trying to do this job if you are thinking about it. It was not hard at all. Just had to take off a bunch of easy to remove items. The harder to remove parts like the crank bolt and the harmonic balancer were easy with the right tools shown in other threads and otramms videos.

Note: Cam seal was really really easy to roll. Order an extra so you aren’t dead in the water if it happens like it did to me.

if I were to do this again I would remove the radiator because the damn thing completely tore up my arms. That was easily the most terrible part.

 

[sedonut]

I was going to get the parts for my 2018 GX460, then I learned something. The 2018 GX460 has a timing chain, not a replaceable belt.

That kinda made my day.

 

[SIMKGX]

if I were to do this again I would remove the radiator because the damn thing completely tore up my arms. That was easily the most terrible part.

I couldn't agree with this more. This was probably the biggest lesson learned for me.

 

[Infinity00]

While I had everything exposed I quickly and easily changed out the worn brushes on my alternator.

 

[Jstawgn]

The TDC and T mark are definitely confusing.
There is some discussion about it at GXOR.
Might need to see it in desktop mode if using mobile devices. Today would be the last day to read as non group member it as they are going to become private group.

 

[Jstawgn]

While I had everything exposed I quickly and easily changed out the worn brushes on my alternator.

View attachment 2685391

View attachment 2685392

I cannot find this part number online. Where did you get it?
Did you replace the bearing too?

Found the part number to be 27370-20130 and specific to Lexus for some reason.

 

[BlackCat]

It’s normal for the cams to snap all over the place after the tensioner is removed. If you put the notches on the “T” mark, it lessens the chance they do that. Either way, it’s no big deal

 

[ZiaMan]

Too late and have no answer for the coolant leak however...

When I did my timing belt I made marks on the timing belt and on the cam and crank teeth. I then taped the new belt to the old belt, so they were side by side and lined up teeth to teeth. After counting the teeth in between and making sure they matched, I then transfered the marks from the old belt to the new belt.

This saved me from being off a tooth when putting the belt back. It looked and felt right but the marks were off by 1.

Haven't seen anyone else be as ocd as I was but after reading about guys doing it 2x, 3x, and one guy did 4x or 5x to fix it, wanted to do it right the first time.

 

[Infinity00]

Wow, glad I didn’t read this before finishing. The belt that comes in this kit had all the necessary marks.

A friend gave me the tip to use a big office clip to hold the T-belt on. It made it very easy to get it right the first time.

 

[Infinity00]

Regarding the water pump in this kit, there’s been some rumbling that people were having problems with it, but I asked Otramm and he hasn’t had any issues, nor Onur, so I was happy to just go ahead and use it but I couldn’t find anything showing that an aisin Mark had been ground off and then I watched a video where a guy was carefully describing everything in the kit, and claimed it was a Chinese knockoff so I got a little worried and bought one from the dealer. Guess what, it’s identical. Everything about it was identical. No Aisin markings on the dealer one either. So I’d just use the one in the kit with confidence.

 

[Infinity00]

I cannot find this part number online. Where did you get it?
Did you replace the bearing too?

Found the part number to be 27370-20130 and specific to Lexus for some reason.

I had my alternator part number and my Toyota parts counter guy looked up the brushes for me.

you are correct about the part number. Line item 1 called holder assembly is the brush kit in a holder

The bearing was still good so I left it in.

The only obviously bad bearing was on the fan bracket